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Posted
I am going to buy my first set of clubs this week and have 3 in mind, which one would you reccomend?
1) Adams 2008 Tight Lies set $250
2) Orlimar Set Black Ice $250
3) Tommy Armour Royal Scot Set $300
4) Any other reccomendations under $300.

Are these all relatively similar quality or is thier a big difference between them. Thank You

Posted
Honestly, I would buy a higher quality used set.

All of the sets would work just fine, and aren't bad sets at all, but so long as you plan on playing for a while you might as well buy a set of clubs aside from what you'd consider a "beginners" set. In my experience, you wouldn't want to buy a set and then think a few months later that you'd want a set of higher quality or of a more reputable brand.
-Kevin
In the Nike Pro Tour Combo Bag:
907 D2 9.5*
906F2 18* 5W
585H 21* 3 Hybrid 735.CM 4-PW 51.06 MP-T & 56.13 MP-T White Hot #1

Posted
Of course any of those clubs would be fine. If you (or her) get into it, you can upgrade later. Just get a few lessons whatever you do. The proper grip is crucial. Then stance and ball position. This will give you a chance at success. Then lots of practice and playing. Wonderful game, but budget in a few lessons as it will pay big dividends.

Posted
Better idea than getting one of the sets on your list...get your fitting info. at a golf store or from a pro and go to a custom club website like GolfWorks or GolfSmith where you can order a wide range of club head styles/types with your shaft and grip selection customized for you. I just ordered a set from GolfWorks.com after playing with Titleist DCIs for the last few years and could not be happier. They cost right at $300. Quality and customer service were outstanding. Of course, there are many other custom club makers out there....do yourself a favor and get fitted and check them out. Feel free to PM me if you have any ?s

In the bizzag...

Driver--TaylorMade Burner 9.5*
3W--TaylorMade Burner 15*
Hybrid--TaylorMade Burner Rescue 19*Irons--Maltby KE4 Tour(4-PW)Wedges--Cleveland CG14(52,56,60)Putter--Wilson CI1Ball--Nike One Platinum


Posted
I don't know about buying higher quality. I would say that something to learn on would be enough for now. I started on pinseeker clubs and not I am on proselect both not really a name brand of clubs. but I learned. no I am not good, but I wouldn't blame the clubs I would blame lack of proper training. I would say go adams set for starter. good name. havn't hurd too many bad things around them. then as you feel better about your game pull out clubs for better ones.

Bag: Ogio
Driver: Cleveland HiBore XLS 9.5 gold stiff
3W: Pro Select 15*
Irons: Pro Select 3-PW
Wedge:Adams Tom Watson set GW, SW, LWPutter: Cleveland VP 1balls: E6+ or Srixonshoes: Adidas powerband"Stop looking at my ears and play!"Home course. Antler Creek; tees; Black 77.5/150, Gold...


Posted
Better idea than getting one of the sets on your list...get your fitting info. at a golf store or from a pro and go to a custom club website like GolfWorks or GolfSmith where you can order a wide range of club head styles/types with your shaft and grip selection customized for you. I just ordered a set from GolfWorks.com after playing with Titleist DCIs for the last few years and could not be happier. They cost right at $300. Quality and customer service were outstanding. Of course, there are many other custom club makers out there....do yourself a favor and get fitted and check them out. Feel free to PM me if you have any ?s

Great suggestion here. I would suggest taking this advice. Check out a local clubfitter/clubmaker, and see what they can put together for you. Having a set of properly fitting clubs would be a great idea.


Posted
Getting fitted sounds like a good idea, I live really close to a place called morro bay custon golf http://www.morrobaygolf.com/index.html and they have a starter custom set for $300 they are called Custom D17 Diamond Kit 19 Piece ever heard of these? And I am saving some $ for lessons have my first one next week.

Posted
Looks ok to me. I do like the fact that the clubs would be fit to you. However, if the lie angle needed to be changed, I would be curious if they would bend them. I know many folks will not bend cast clubs. At this price, these are surely cast, rather than forged clubheads. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but they are prone to crack if bent too much. Guess it comes down to the dimensions you would need. Worth considering. I would drop by and see what the guy has to say then think on it. Maybe post the pertinent info here and bounce it off others. One thought, if he suggest that you need regular length and standard lie angle, the sky is the limit. If that is the case, anything you buy or order online will be pretty close to fitting you. But if you require a different lie/length than standard, this could be a good starter set indeed.

Posted
I would agree - getting fitted makes a big difference. Making sure you get clubs with the right launch angle is important. The custom golf shop here charges 100 to do the fitting, but it is free if you buy clubs from them.
Posted
$249 and custom fit to your specs by a local guy that will provide continued service as needed, heck yeah man. I say go for it. That is as good as a price on a full set of clubs (new) you will find. Having them fit for you makes this a no brainer. Get the clubs, a few lessons, and have fun.

Posted
The integra clubs are a standard size not custom fit, he said to wait on custom fit clubs for awhile but he recommended the integra clubs for me, now I am going back and forth from these which Im leaning towards or the adams tight lies set.

Posted
I went to the driving range for the first time today and used some tour edge jmax clubs and they felt great, the pro said these are great clubs so now thinking of purchasing these what is your thoughts on this set which I think i may go with. (graphite of steel shaft which is better?)

Note: This thread is 6084 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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