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Posted
I want to buy a new set of clubs. Over the years, I have used Play It Again Sports and various golf stores for trade-ins. As many of you know, I didn't get much value from these methods. I've also sold a couple of sets and a few individual clubs on ebay. I probably received a higher dollar amount for these on ebay than through trade-in, but it was a lot of hassle.

So, my question is what's the best way to get rid of old clubs before buying a new set? The set is listed below. I'm only going to keep the Vokey wedges and Cameron putter. Also, I just recently re-gripped (nice grips, New Decades). I assume this will add value on ebay, but probably not as a trade-in (not sure though).

As a follow-up, is it better to try and sell the woods and irons together or break them up?

Thanks.
Posted
I don't know if it's any better or not, but you have both the forum here and craigslist, which are both free. Depends on how quickly you want to get rid of it.

In the bag:
Driver: Rapture V2, 9 degree, stiff shaft
Fairway Woods: X-Hot 3 wood
Hybrid: 3H
Irons: J36 PC 4-PW Project X 6.0 Shafts, FlightedWedges: CG14, 50 54 and 58 degree Putter: Guerin Rife 2 Bar with Winn grip B330S Pro V1x


Posted
I have done amazing on ebay. Gotten much more out of the clubs than I ever expected. Last night I finished two auctions for a putter and a hybrid and I got almost twice what I expected.


 


Posted
I always sell on eBay

What's In My Bag:
Driver: TaylorMade R11s 9* w/ Fujikura Motore F1
3 Wood: TaylorMade R11s w/ Mitsubishi Fubuki 
Irons: Taylormade R11
Wedges: Titleist SM4 Vokey 52.08, 56.11, 60.04 
Putter: Odyssey Metal-X #9
Ball: Taylormade Penta TP5


Posted
its DEFINITELY better to break them up. i have over 2,500 sales on Ebay and i found that out a LONG time ago. the only drawback with ebay is the fee's. also, the BEST way to attract the most buyers is to start the bidding LOW (like 99 cents), DO NOT use a reserve (just close the auction 12 hours before it ends if you arent getting the amount you wanted to), dont overcharge on shipping ($15 for a single club is to much. $9.99 is fine as it only costs about $8 to send a club anywhere in the US via PRIORITY MAIL), and have the auction end in the evening time (7pm-10pm)

Posted
its DEFINITELY better to break them up. i have over 2,500 sales on Ebay and i found that out a LONG time ago. the only drawback with ebay is the fee's. also, the BEST way to attract the most buyers is to start the bidding LOW (like 99 cents), DO NOT use a reserve (just close the auction 12 hours before it ends if you arent getting the amount you wanted to), dont overcharge on shipping ($15 for a single club is to much. $9.99 is fine as it only costs about $8 to send a club anywhere in the US via PRIORITY MAIL), and have the auction end in the evening time (7pm-10pm)

agreed but when i ship single clubs it is like 13 bucks


Posted
agreed but when i ship single clubs it is like 13 bucks

thats acceptable (in my opinion). but as a seller, i have a hard time bidding on clubs where the seller wants $15 to ship a club when it only costs HALF of that. i dont have a problem with $12.95 though. what really gets me are the guys who want $20 to ship ONE iron. i guess some people dont mind paying that much, but since I know how much it does cost to ship a club (using Priority Mail), it just rubs me the wrong way when sellers try to make a profit on shipping... just my opinion though


Posted
thats acceptable (in my opinion). but as a seller, i have a hard time bidding on clubs where the seller wants $15 to ship a club when it only costs HALF of that. i dont have a problem with $12.95 though. what really gets me are the guys who want $20 to ship ONE iron. i guess some people dont mind paying that much, but since I know how much it does cost to ship a club (using Priority Mail), it just rubs me the wrong way when sellers try to make a profit on shipping... just my opinion though

same here ill pay 15 for a ship on a driver,an iron is 10 thats my experiance though for u.s.p.s priority anyways deffinately sell woods differant


Posted
craigslist, ebay, and callaway pre-owned is where I look to sell my clubs...
Driver: Taylor Made R9, Woods: Callaway Hyper X 3 wood, Hybrid: Cleveland Mashie 20 degree Irons: Callaway X-20's, Wedge: Cleveland 588 56 degree, Putter: Cleveland CC 6 Classic Black Platinum, Ball: Noodle, Shoes: Contour
 
Maryland Golf and Country Club in Bel Air, MD.

Posted
I sold a set of ping g2 irons on craigslist for alot more than I couldve gotten on ebay. However, I purchased some victory red split cavitys for 540 with shipping on ebay so it worked out.

Posted
i bought a set of callaway x-12's....maybe they were 14's too long ago to remember, on ebay probably 6 or so years ago. they guy told me they were factory shafted. well, when they arrived, they were not! they were uni-flex shafts and the way there were cut through the through the hosel...we'll let's just say they did not come from callaway that way. sent them back to the seller and found out he was just some guy selling lot's of odds and ends on ebay. he didn't have a clue. ended up getting a different set with tru tempered shafts.

Posted
i bought a set of callaway x-12's....maybe they were 14's too long ago to remember, on ebay probably 6 or so years ago. they guy told me they were factory shafted. well, when they arrived, they were not! they were uni-flex shafts and the way there were cut through the through the hosel...we'll let's just say they did not come from callaway that way. sent them back to the seller and found out he was just some guy selling lot's of odds and ends on ebay. he didn't have a clue. ended up getting a different set with tru tempered shafts.

Callaway sells some of their iron sets with Uniflex shafts in them. they probably were factory shafted, but someone just had them cut down


Posted
The answer is yes. Ebay will be the only place I sell clubs from now on. I have never had any success with forums, craigslist, or newspapers. There is too much haggling, sending emails and pics, and never actually selling the clubs. These end up being a waste of time. Too many people are looking for the bargain of a lifetime, something for the record books i.e "new unhit namebrand club with factory custom shaft and all accessories sealed in plastic with free shipping for 1/8th of new price with your receipt for warranty purposes". With ebay, you set your price or opening bid and see what happens. You can end the auction if you are not getting what you want. My experience is that I usually get my desired price or more, without the haggling.

In my  Warbird Hot stand bag:
nike.gif Dymo2 Str8 fit 10.5 or  HiBore XLS 10.5,  Steelhead Plus 3 and 5 woods,

 NP2 3H,  DCI 990 4-PW,  Forged + 54/12,  RAC 58/8,

 Classic #1,  NXT Tour or  Burner TP
 


Posted
its DEFINITELY better to break them up. i have over 2,500 sales on Ebay and i found that out a LONG time ago. the only drawback with ebay is the fee's. also, the BEST way to attract the most buyers is to start the bidding LOW (like 99 cents), DO NOT use a reserve (

Those are the exact parameters I use when listing an item. Except I would never end an auction 12 hours early. I've had many items quadruple or better in price in the last 45 seconds. This is especially true when the hit counter and watch meter are showing decent numbers.

As you know, if an item is properly listed/photographed and described, it will generally go for what it's worth or close to it on Ebay. There are so many bidders/shoppers out there now and with all the last minute sniping programs available, you could be leaving money and sales on the table ending an auction early. The 99 cent start pricing and no reserve formats absolutely bring in the most money. It's amazing the number of sellers who "just don't get it" when it comes to auction mentality. Personally, I never bid on a reserve price item. I don't have the time to play the guess my price game (which is usually too high). I think lots of people bid like that.

Posted
Those are the same parameters I also use, I don't have 2500 sales, but I have had good luck. My belief has been, the item is collecting dust in my basement or will be collecting dust in my basement, so some money is better than no money, and I accept what the market will pay for the item.

Craig 

Yeah, wanna make 14 dollars the hard way?


Posted
Good ebay tips: 7-day auctions. No file photos, use actual photos. Honest descriptions. Have your auction end on Sunday night..7:30 west coast/10:30 east coast (more people are home on Sunday night and the time allows the whole country to be involved). You don't have to start at 99 cents. I recommend something like $20 or so. The club will get bid up to the fair market value (or so I have expeienced) or beyond.


 


Posted
Those are the exact parameters I use when listing an item. Except I would never end an auction 12 hours early. I've had many items quadruple or better in price in the last 45 seconds. This is especially true when the hit counter and watch meter are showing decent numbers.

if there are bids on your item, Ebay will NOT allow you to end an auction if there is less than 12 hours left. trust me, i tried to end an auction an hour early recently that had bids on it, and it would not allow me to. the message said

" auctions that have 12 hours or less to go that have active bids cannot be ended early " or something to that effect. thats why i stated end it 12 hours early. trust me, ive been doing this for 10 years and i have over 2500 sales. if i could end an auction with bids on it at the last second, i would

Posted
Good ebay tips: 7-day auctions. No file photos, use actual photos. Honest descriptions. Have your auction end on Sunday night..7:30 west coast/10:30 east coast (more people are home on Sunday night and the time allows the whole country to be involved).

if you know the club will get its fair market value, why start at $20 when you can start an auction at 99 cents for MUCH less. Ebay charges you extra when you start an auction off higher than 99 cents. the more you go over 99 cents, the more you pay just to list your auction. that doesnt make sense. why give ebay free money?

EXAMPLE: if you start an auction off at 99 cents, your fee to ebay is only 10 cents if you start an auction off at $20, it costs you $1.00 id rather keep my 90 cents because it adds up quick when you sell a lot of stuff

Note: This thread is 6049 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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