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Posted
I recently purchased a 6 iron of both the Callaway X-22 and the R7 draw irons.

I like the feel of both however I am not sure which would be better for me long term. Any thought on which is a better game improvement iron?

Posted
I tried the R7 draw irons (and the normal ones) and I didn't like them.

I havn't tried the X-22's but they seem like good clubs.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
I would go with the X22's. I have hit the regular R7's, and they were pretty good, but I would not reccomend a draw biased iron, as they only cover up swing flaws, if not actually cause them.

:tmade: 09 Burner
:cobra: Speed LD F 3 wood
:cobra: Baffler 20 degree hybrid
:cobra: Baffler TWS 23 hy
:ping: G15 5-UW
:snake_eyes: 56 deg SW 
:snake_eyes: 60 - 12 wedge  
:scotty_cameron: Studio Select Newport 2


Posted
ML5,

Check our the X20 or R7 thread from a day or two ago. It talks about the technical specs of each iron. (X20 and X22 quite similar)

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I second not getting a draw biased iron set..... Absolutely no need, the GI irons already have serious offset, you don't need anymore.

If your slicing with regular GI irons, I'd work on swing path before I bought clubs that masked all my flaws..... Unless of course your only playing once a month, then by all means get the draw irons....

How often do you play/plan to play?

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer


Posted
I plan on playing alot.

This summer I played at least once a week, many weeks I would play 3 times.

Just started playing and looking to get a set I like (didn't like the Adams when I bought them) to get some good instruction and really work on the game this winter. That is if it stops raining everyday.

Posted
If you plan on playing allot and you are a younger guy (like under 50) then don't commit to either of those irons. They won't be in the bag all that long if you are playing 1-3 times per week and are working on your game. Right now I suspect you finding your swing and until you really develop a swing going those irons are going to good for you only in the short term. Some would suggest going with a more of a players iron as this will help you work in your swing and give you a bit more feedback. I like the x22tours allot - still easy to hit but they give you some more feedback than the x-20 or x-22's. Another way to go is game an SGI iron (pretty sure the irons you are looking at fall into that category) but buy them used so you don't have much money into them when you need to trade up.

Of course this is just one guys opinion as I play with lots of single digit capers who play both those irons. Most of them are a little older and don't expect much form their irons other then to keep it in play and then let their short game do the work.
Driver R7 Superquad NV 55 shaft or Bridgestone J33 460 NV 75 shaft
3 and 5 Wood X
Hybrid original Fli Hi 21* or FT 22*
Irons AP2
Wedges Vokey 52* - 8 , 56* 14, 60*-7Putter California CoranodoBall TP RedGPS NeoRange Finder- Bushnell Tour V2 When Chuck Norris puts spin on the ball, the ball does not...

Posted
Yea if you plan on playing that much, dont get the draw biased irons..... If you like the r7s just buy em used on ebay because I have a feeling you'll want to upgrade in a year or 2....

I just bought Mizuno MP57's a few weeks ago, trading up from my game improvement cobras, and I am really happy I did it....

But yea, keep working on your game and please dont get draw irons, I know you will hate them. plenty of offset in the GI irons that if you have the right swing plane, you will get a nice draw out of them.

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer


Posted
I tried the R7 draw irons (and the normal ones) and I didn't like them.

Agreed here.

In my Xtreme Sport bag
'09 Burner 9.5*
F50 15* 3 Wood
Burner 18* 5 Wood
MX-19 4-GW SV Tour 54.12 & 58.08 White Hot 2-Ball SRT


Posted
I may not like draw-based irons, but don't let yourself be talked out of game-improvement irons altogether. I usually play Titleist 775s, which are a transition set, and I've become consistent enough to occasionally play some Wilson Staff Tour Blades. But I also have a set of PING Zing 2 irons, which are definitely oversized with large soles and cavity backs. I put them in the bag two days ago for a 9 hole round and proceeded to hit 9 greens in regulation. Callaway X-22s and TaylorMade R7s are good clubs, I just don't like draw-biased clubs.

Posted
If you plan on playing allot and you are a younger guy (like under 50) then don't commit to either of those irons. They won't be in the bag all that long if you are playing 1-3 times per week and are working on your game. Right now I suspect you finding your swing and until you really develop a swing going those irons are going to good for you only in the short term. Some would suggest going with a more of a players iron as this will help you work in your swing and give you a bit more feedback. I like the x22tours allot - still easy to hit but they give you some more feedback than the x-20 or x-22's. Another way to go is game an SGI iron (pretty sure the irons you are looking at fall into that category) but buy them used so you don't have much money into them when you need to trade up.

So you are saying if I work with a coach and practice right I should have no problem at all hitting the X-22 tour model? I have been playing for 1 year, 26yo, former baseball player and currently do not hit the ball well at all. I also have trouble getting it in the air with the longer clubs. I love the look of the tour model 100 times better, especially since it appears to be a satin finish. The major knock I have on the 6 iron I bought of the regular X-22 is that it looks like the finish gets beat up on them quickly. I have the A3 Adams now and they did the same thing. Played with the A4 forged iron, hit it fairly well although I had trouble with pushing it alot on the 5-7's but the finish stayed nice. Is that a cast iron vs forged thing? I'd like to buy the tour's however the "tour" offset has me nervous. -Mike

Posted
If you're a 23 handicap who "doesn't hit the ball really well" I would advise against the Tour models. I'd recommend something like Cobra S2s, the X-22s, and (even more than the others) a set of PING G10s.

Posted
If you're a 23 handicap who "doesn't hit the ball really well" I would advise against the Tour models. I'd recommend something like Cobra S2s, the X-22s, and (even more than the others) a set of PING G10s.

I'm glad someone else thinks so. I haven't hit the ball anywhere other than the hosel for 2 weeks straight.

I'm really one or two swings away from quitting. It's amazing in a down economy that potential instructors who I explain I am looking to set something up on a weekly basis seem to have a 2 week wait time to get a ••••ing lesson.

Posted
23 would be a good day.... I don't have enough balls or material on the hosel right now to finish a round...

Don't beat yourself up, it's a hard game. Focus on your one or two best shots each round, and just enjoy being outside. The great thing about golf is there is always something to work on (for me-cough, putting, cough).


Posted
...I have been playing for 1 year, 26yo, former baseball player and currently do not hit the ball well at all. I also have trouble getting it in the air with the longer clubs....

MikeL5,

Critical info that you are a formal baseball player. Possibly you are putting too much right hand into the swing. To hit a baseball, you take a crouched stance, and then rotate your shoulders and hips horizontally as you step into the ball. In golf, you take a stance with knees bent and spine angle tilted forward (former BB players need to avoid excessive crouching in their stances). You rotate your shoulders + arms diagonally around your tilted spine. Then, at the top, you start your downswing by dropping your hands with left-hand lead as you rotate your right hip through the ball. Your shoulders rotate down and under in a proper golf swing. One of the things you want to maintain is lag, which means your hands stay cocked until just before impact, and are ahead of the golf ball at impact. Sand Trap has lots of info on lag analysis - even some videos - in recent Playing Tips posts. What does this mean for clubs? I would go with X22 iron or a similar club. The X22 clubhead gets the ball up, AND the stock Uniflex shaft had a middle kickpoint, or moderate help in getting the ball up. Thus, less likely to pop the ball up in the wind. Avoid draw bias. If you played competitive baseball, you can learn to hit a golf ball. Ping G10 clubs - tried them this spring, and they get the ball up too high. I also hit X20s and X22s, but got a great deal on slightly used X20s and went for lower cost. Since you're a former baseball player, you have enough potential strength that you don't need too much help getting the ball up. Capturing better clubhead speed will help you with loft. If you get some lessons, getting the ball up can be corrected. As for lessons, find a pro you feel comfortable with. Also, find someone who uses video swing analysis - just like in baseball. A video summary of you lesson is a great thing to look at before you go out and practice. Good luck and hang in there. Give us a situation update as things develop.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I appreciate the info. The X22 I bought has the Rifle X 5.5 shaft in it. I assume if I was to purchase the entire set it would be more beneficial to get the stock uniflex shafts, correct?

Can you point me in the right direction on where I can get more info on what to look for in a shaft? I'd like to know what to look for when purchasing new clubs if and when.

Cannot wait for the lesson on Monday. Guy is only an apprentice however he does use video and also played college baseball. Had a good conversation when we spoke, just hope he can meet for lessons regularly.

THe first guy I went to was just someone who lived close and was close to 70, still a Class A pro however he taught me NOTHING about the swing, only quick fixes. I honestly got the idea he thought I was too bad to teach.

Note: This thread is 5877 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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