Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast!
IGNORED

Been buying irons sets

longbow
 Share
Note: This thread is 5403 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

longbow Well Established Member

longbow

Posted
Posted

Ok got back into the game in May, early May actually.  Have been buying bargain priced sets of irons on ebay since.  Wife thinks I'm nuts but as long as I have the dough no biggie.  What I have bought:  Ping Eye 2's I had to have reshafted from the Ping stiff shafts to DG r300's.  These are orange dot models cause I like a 2 deg flat lie in my irons.  Don't hit these at all very well and these sticks were mint with balanced and blue printed original shafts but they did nothing for me.  Most I have spent on a set of irons.

Lynx Master Models.  Mint set.  Regular flex Lynx shafts.  One of the best irons I have ever hit bar none.  But so rare and minty that I have a hard time convincing myself to play them.

TM LCG's, with bubble shafts, R80+ shafts. Irons hit long and left cause they are to upright.  Not bad sticks though but hard to work the ball with these.

Founders Club Standard Royals with firm graphite shafts.  Very very nice irons for 30 bucks brand new in the box.  Classic looking irons and they hit very well and only slightly left for the long irons and spot on for the mid/short irons.

Callaway original BB's.  Full set, cheap price, uniflex shafts and hit very very long and high.  But to upright for a standard loft and lie for my swing.  Mid irons could be up to 30 yds off line.  Sent them back cause they just didn't work for me.  Way more off line than any mentioned above and couldn't move the ball from a straight path.

TM Fire Sole irons, DG S300 with sensicore.  Very very excellent easy to hit and work irons.  I love them.  Not quite as nice as the Lynx but right up there.

Hogan Edge forged.  Apex 3 shafts, 2 deg flat.  Wonderfully workable irons, very easy to work the ball and hit with a different flight patter for height depending on the irons.  All of the clubs seem to have a more boring flight though which I like.

I have a couple of other sets too and I have bought some drivers and fairway woods and hybrids.  Didn't spend alot of dough and have had alot of fun doing this.  Have to go to work now and will continue later.  thanks

Back from work!  Probably my go to set of clubs is a set of Hogan GCD tour grind with a graphite S4 flex shaft.  2 deg flat, forged heads and graduated cavity backs.  Simply the best irons I have ever hit bar none and that includes the Lynx and TM's mentioned above.  I have had this set actually for many years and purchased them from a 12 yr old whose grandfather owned them.  His grandfather was a Rules Director or somthing like that for the PGA or USGA I forget which.

I have another 2 sets that I made myself and these are pretty good actually.  TT lite shafts, one is a PE2 copy and one is a blade iron configuration from MARS golf from years ago.  TT lite shaft tipped firm.

Well someone is here to help me install a microwave over the stove.  I'll be back.  thanks

Ok last edit about my drivers and woods and 2 new hybrids.  Currently will play one of 3 Titelist drivers, a 10.5 LF-E stiff shaft, a 975D 46" pro force stiff tipped or a D2 10.5 stiff with marumura I think it is called pured shaft that I hit pretty well.  I also have an Adams Red Line I think it is called with a 44" shaft same head specs as the T's but don't hit it very well.

My favorite 3 wood of all time is one I made myself, it is a True Force 13deg+ on a low torque Apache shaft.  This thing is monster long off the deck or the tee.  I wish I could find a matching 5 wood and 7 wood.  Truly a wonderful 3 wood.  Next up are some original Orlimar miragin tri metal woods, 3 and 5.  EI 70 shafts in reg flex.  Very nice woods too but don't hit the 3 any longer than that True Force I made, maybe a bit less actually.  Also have a KZG 3 wood with the EI 70 reg flex and let's see a Titelist 7 wood with a steel shaft that is a DG R300.  I have a couple of others like an Alien set of 3,5, and 7 that I don't use along with an Integra Driver that was pretty hot back in the day I think the late 90's.  I also have a staff bag full of persimmon and oil hardened maple that are fun once in a while to drag out when I play balata balls.

As for hybrids I just bought a 3 and 4 hybrid by Nickent in reg flex that feel like stiff.  This is the 3DX versions.  Only played one round with them, the 4 actually and truth be told I ain't sold on them.  I don't think I have a big enough gap for them to be any use really for the courses I play and frankly I don't hit them that well at all.  My 3 and 5 woods pretty much cover anything over my 5 iron.  Least ways I can make them work depending on how I hit them.  You know open the fast a tad and get more air and height so they don't go as far or hook'em and make them go pretty far depending.  Ok that's it, thanks for listening.


Note: This thread is 5403 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up

  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).

  • Posts

    • iacas
      Width at P4 Has Downstream Effects on P6 and P7

      By iacas · Posted

      I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • bkuehn1952
      Bailey Shoemaker's Pre-Shot Routine at ANWA

      By bkuehn1952 · Posted

      We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
    • WillieT
      "5 Minutes Daily" Practice Challenge

      By WillieT · Posted

      Day 56 (4 May 26) - Worked on some ball-then-ground drills - going from P3 thru impact - with a slowed tempo, working to keep all parts in sync.   
    • coachjimsc
      Wordle Daily Puzzle

      By coachjimsc · Posted

      Wordle 1,780 3/6 🟩⬜🟨🟨🟨 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • DeadMan
      Wordle Daily Puzzle

      By DeadMan · Posted

      Wordle 1,780 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟨🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

  I accept