Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6832 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Hello, im a about a 29-30 capper and in the market for a new driver. Im very interested in the Taylormade R5 series to correct at times a nice fade to nasty slice.

I typically line up down the left rough and on a good shot i will fade into the fairway, on a bad one, im looking way right.

I have read alot about the TM R5 dual and have decided to get one. Since they are no longer made i have looked to ebay and have found that i can get a new R5 TP for about 30-40$ more than a R5 Dual.

When new, the TP model was around $600,

As a big capper should i bother with the TP model? I have read that it is set up the same as a R5 dual (N) but gives you moveable weights and a nicer shaft.

My thinking is, i dont want to buy the R5 Draw model, and am worried that the R5 Neutral model may not be enough? I would think the TP, which comes set up as a neutral, would be nice and if im still slicing, i could modify the weights.

Any opinions on this club? Should a high capper stay away from TP Clubs?

Im thinking 9.5 with a stif flex (swing around 95-100), but im a pretty big guy and the golf store said to be safe i should go with a stiff. They also said as i get more confortable on the Tee, my swing will speed up a few mph.

Any thoughts?
Thanks

edit FYI on ebay

New R5 Dual Approx $150
New R5 Dual TP Approx $175

Posted
I swing at about 100 mph (and I'm 6'4''), and I do a hell of a lot better with a regular shaft. Just my two cents, though.

As to the driver, I'd go with anything that has adjustable weights, and/or a draw bias. I used to have a nasty slice that would go just as far, if not further, to the right than it would go out. I solved that problem by closing the clubface slightly and hitting a driver with a draw bias (now, most of my tee shots are nice, long draws but there's still the occasional banana ball).
"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...

Posted
Thanks for the reply Lamenbums.

On the stiffness...I almost felt i was swinging harder than i normally do at the golf shop, I ranged from about 95-98mph, but i think i was trying to kill the ball in there..

I would like to swing easier and hit the ball longer (yeah, doesnt everyone...)

Do you think i should be looking at a R flex instead of a S.

Im about 6-3 280ish (+ or -)

Im not really sure what difference it makes?

I also want something that would last as my game (hopefully) improves.

Thanks

Posted
Don't be scared of the "D" bias on the R5. A well struck shot may draw 5-10 yards. I have experienced that MOST folks are using a shaft that is too stiff for them. I have seen a touring pro use a regular flex shaft in an exhibition and just crush the ball perfectly straight (it was just too high for his liking) I might suggest getting the Regular flex R5 D 10.5. I have not seen your swing but you say that you are a high 20, and that is what I would suggest to anyone in your shoes. Also, TM's customer service is second to none. By the way, International Golf has the drivers for $149..


Mike

R5 Dual 9.5
F50 16.5
R7 TP 3-PW
RAC Satin 52 and 56 deg
Vokey 59 deg Studio Newport 2 HX Tour 56


Posted
Mike, do you think i should stay away from the TP @ $175ish??

I didnt want to commit to the draw club sinse i was hoping to correct my swing, not swing poorly with a different club. On the TP i could really set the club up to be either D or N. Thats why it seemed to be worth the extra $25 to me. I just dont want to buy a tour club if they are "harder to hit" or if there is another reason a high capper should avoid them.

Thanks for your opinions & information!

Posted
Well, I would be more concerned about the face angle of the TP rather then the shaft. The TPs typically have a more open face angle, so unless you are wanting to get rid of a draw and want a more conistant fade the TPs are not a good club for you if you miss is way right, you are just going to miss more to the right.

Posted
Flex also helps determine your ball flight. I have a very fast swing speed and high ball flight so I play an Xstiff flex with a mid kick point. If you hit the ball really high, consider the stiff. IF your ball flight is normal to low, I wouldn't reccomend it.

Also, I'd go with the regular model instead of TP. The tour models usually are set up for people who want to "work the ball" off the tee. If you are good enough to hit a draw or fade on command, that's great. Otherwise the regular model would be better. I tried an SQ tour last year. The face was set one degree open. I went from hitting a nice draw with my old driver to hitting a fade and my misses became slices. I wouldn't reccomend the Tour model unless you are VERY good off the tee and want to be able to work the ball.

In The Bag

Driver R7 SuperQuad 8.5 Xstiff
5 Wd SQ X stiff steel
3-PW RAC LT X stiff 52 dg RAC TP Satin56 dg RAC TP Satin60 dg Vokey Oil CanPutter Cameron Studio Newport


Posted
Have you looked at the Callaway X460? Its come down in price drastically since the new Big Bertha 460 came out. I got one and I love it. The face is 2 degrees closed at address reducing the potential for major banana balls. If you have a relatively modest swing speed, say 85-95 mph, go for a regular shaft and a decent amount of loft (13 degrees).

I've found mine to be pretty forgiving and even I can bomb the ball satisfactorily with this. You might just be surprised at the results.

Taylormade r7 460
Callaway X 3 Wood
Callaway X 5 Wood
Callaway X 7 Wood
Callaway X Hybrid (24*)TaylorMade r7 Irons (5-PW)Mizuno MP-R Series Wedges (52,58 degrees)Ping G2 Anser Putter


Posted
If you're trying to prevent a slice your money's best spent, of course, on lessons. Or books and range balls. Eliminating a slice is relatively easy with sound fundamentals... I mention it because I was in exactly the same (banana) boat a few years back. With a bit of work, I now have a slight draw with my irons and generally hit it straight with my "ham on a stick" high-moi driver. Every non-TP club I've tried from TaylorMade has generally led to wild, painful hooks.

If you're set on an R5 you should think about how long you think you'll have the club and whether you are going to be working hard to improve your swing. If you're set on fixing the swing flaws that lead to a slice I'd vote for the TP with more options later and the square face. If you're not -- which is OK too -- than an R5 D might be a better option.

With a 30 handicap, I'd also suggest a little looking around for more forgiving clubs before you pull the trigger. I traded my R5TP for a Cleveland Launcher and loved it. New drivers are coming out every 4 minutes, so there's tons of great deals on Ebay. Whatever you end up with, have fun!
Cleveland - HiBore XL (9.5* Fuji Fit-On Gold Stiff)
Bobby Jones/Jesse Ortiz - 3W & 21* H3 (Stock Stiff)
Ben Hogan - Apex FTX 4-FW (Apex 4 shafts)
TaylorMade - rac TP 56.12 satin & 60.6 black
Scotty Cameron - Mil-Spec Newport 2 (33" standard)

Posted
Hm, I have an R5 Dual 10.5 N Stiff and the R5 Dual TP 10.5 Reg.
I hit more fairways with the stiff shaft compared to the Regular.
Also can hit more draws with the stiff compared to the Reg. They are both N faces but the TP has an open face vs. a degree or so closed on the Std R5.
Suprisingly the distance is roughly the same out of each. Like someone else here said, I think the Std R5 is a better fit unless your Hdcp is low enough to start working the ball. I also suspect the closed face might reduce your slices.

Posted
I am not suggesting the "D" series to correct your fade/slice, but it is proven that a slight draw adds yards to your drive. The Draw biased drivers have a slightly higher weight in the heel to promote a draw. They will not fix a slice!!! It will however decrease the amount the ball does travel when spun to the right or left. The TP model has very little offset, which basically means if your hands aren't perfect at impact, the chance of hitting a wild drive increases. With that said, you can most certainly work the ball with a non-TP model. I can work it 15-20 yards and more with a non TP R5. All of the previous suggestions and recommendations are great and I wish you luck on your choice. Just be careful with the R5 Dual TP for $179 from E-Bay. There have been alot of "TP" knock-offs sold on E-Bay with Taylor Made's name on them..

Mike

R5 Dual 9.5
F50 16.5
R7 TP 3-PW
RAC Satin 52 and 56 deg
Vokey 59 deg Studio Newport 2 HX Tour 56


Note: This thread is 6832 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Makes sense and aligns with other literature. Static stretching, especially for longer durations, can impede performance in strength and power activities. I would not want to do like hamstring, quad, and calf stretches then go immediately sprint. To me that sounds like a terrible Idea. I would rather start off walking, then jogging, then running, then ramp up to sprinting.  To me, static stretching isn't even a warmup activity. I like the term warmup; you want to get some exertion going before the activity.      a { text-decoration: none; color: #464feb; } tr th, tr td { border: 1px solid #e6e6e6; } tr th { background-color: #f5f5f5; }
    • Going to Florida for the usual February golf trip, and with our current weather, that date won't get here soon enough. Heading to Augusta GA for the Tuesday Master's practice round, will definitely get some golf in while I'm in the area for a few days. Hope to be able to catch up with @coachjimsc if he's around. Then it's back to Scotland first of July.  Playing 7 new courses, can't wait for that.  Then somewhere after that is the Rhode Island CC Member-Guest and then my normal October golf trip to Myrtle Beach.  
    • It sucks to carry around a lot of water, but ideally it should be way more than we think.  I buy those gallon jugs of water and hang them from my pushcart when I walk. I agree with the electrolytes as well. You don't just sweat out water, but you lose electrolytes as well. 
    • A 2010 study from the Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research compares the effects of different pre-round stretch routines for competitive golfers. Active Dynamic Warm-up: Swing Medicus driver, hit 3 shots each with selected clubs. Passive Static Stretches: Various athletic stretches such as hamstrings, chest stretch and reverse trunk twist. The subjects were collegiate golfers with a HDCP index of 5 or less who engaged regularly in strength and fitness routines. All golfers had two test days: one with active dynamic (AD) warmup, a second with AD followed by static stretches (SS). The results were then compared, within golfers and across golfers. For performance testing after the warmups, golfers hit three driver shots at time 0, 15, 30 and 45 minutes after the warmup. The study shows that static stretch formats produced poorer performance outcomes in the four measures shown in Table 5, which shows Time Zero results. The performance deficits under the PSS protocol decreased over time. Some suggestions on why the passive protocol was tied to lower performance than the active protocol: The passive stretches routine induced excessive range of motion,  basically producing wobbles in the golf swing. Other research indicates that the stretching produced slack in the tendons, lessening the amount of muscle force that could be transferred into the shot. One caveat: The study had good scientific controls and balancing of treatments (test routines). This was, however, an exploratory study and raises as many questions as it answers. Also, although the study was done back in 2010, it is still cited as a primary work in recent reviews. A quick online search did not reveal any follow-ups on the study. For those interested, the study PDF is below. PassiveStretchGOLF.pdf  
    • I have trouble with vertigo on occasion, but have gotten nutritional and biofeedback tips to keep it at bay. Dehydration can help trigger v-like symptoms so one recommendation, along with maintaining overall hydration, is to start with 8 oz. of water early in the morning. A meta-analysis on Golf As Physical Activity indicated that golf is rated as a moderately intensive physical activity. This scientific literature review came from the University of Edinburgh. The physical activity level ties into hydration. A former university colleague was a marathon runner who had published a couple of articles on endurance training. He likewise said that golf was a moderate physical activity especially when the round stretched past  the two-hour mark. For hydration he recommended switching from water to electrolyte drink on the back nine (past two hour point of exercise) to prevent cramping. At the two-hour point of moderate activity, water starts flushing electrolytes out of the body, which can lead to fatigue and cramping. (I have had trouble with leg cramps in the past during exertion.) During a round, I start out with water on the front nine and switch to sports drink on the back nine. If the day is unusually hot, I may drink 8 oz. of Pedialite concentrate before going to the course. Maintaining overall hydration plus on-course boosters keeps me going.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.