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Posted
I know virtually nothing about the DIY club making game, but after pricing new MP-59/69's, I thought I'd ask: Are there really any DIY blades that are truly comparable in quality? I'm speaking with respect to the iron heads, of course. Thought about just picking up a set of 33's on the cheap - I always loved those clubs. Like most ho's, though, I start looking at something that's shiny and new and I'm drawn like a magnet. I'd rather not part with a grand or whatever, so the thought crossed my mind re: building a set. I'm about 95% sure I'm not going to go the DIY route, but someone here with experience might change my mind (or convince me for sure that it was a foolish idea in the first place). Thanks in advance.

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


Posted

Perhaps check out Golfsmith..look into Wishon, Nakamura.  My buddy made a custom set using Snake Eye forged MC/CB combo with PX 5.0 HL shafts, custom ferrules and grips..but it ends up costing much more than buying a set off the rack.


Posted
Originally Posted by Maverick

Perhaps check out Golfsmith..look into Wishon, Nakamura.  My buddy made a custom set using Snake Eye forged MC/CB combo with PX 5.0 HL shafts, custom ferrules and grips..but it ends up costing much more than buying a set off the rack.

Then he didn't do it right. You shouldn't be paying more for components than a new set... Maltby heads are all around 20-30$, shafts go from 15$ for Dynamic Gold to 35 for Project X and C tapers. Grips run from 5-10$ and ferrules are like 5$ for a dozen.

Should cost in the neighborhood of 40-90$ per club. New sets, even with set pricing, are starting at like 100+ per club, and that's with stock shafts and grips. If you want Project Xs and multicompound grips in them, you'll shell out a couple hundred bucks on top of the base price.

1000$>600$

That said, comparing MP heads to most components is tough. Wishon's heads are pretty nice but Mizuno heads are sexier than any component.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

You can get a custom set built for under $800 on Ebay.....look closely. A friend of mine ordered from a seller on there and his 69s came back flawless right from the factory. Items from sellers "golfmygirl" and "golf-seller" look pretty solid.

In the bag:

TaylorMade R11 Driver (10.5 stiff stock shaft)

TaylorMade R11 3wood (15 degree stiff stock shaft)

Adams IdeaPro 3i hybrid (20 degree)

Titleist DCI 4-PW (photo)

Cleveland CG15 wedges (52, 56, 60)

Odyssey White-Hot 2-Ball (Superstroke oversize grip)

Bushnell Tour V2 Rangefinder

Ping Hoofer 2012 Bag

 

 


Posted
Perhaps check out Golfsmith..look into Wishon, Nakamura.  My buddy made a custom set using Snake Eye forged MC/CB combo with PX 5.0 HL shafts, custom ferrules and grips..but it ends up costing much more than buying a set off the rack.

Ah, my ignorance is starting to show. Thanks for the response. Maybe I should have asked this: - I know there are several brands of DIY club heads. Which (if any), in your opinion, might be comparable or better in quality to something like 59/69's? I'll check out the brands you've mentioned. If I'm going to drop a grand on off the rack clubs (fit for me) but I could spend another $x on something that was measurably better, I'd do that.

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


Posted
Originally Posted by LovinItAll

I know virtually nothing about the DIY club making game, but after pricing new MP-59/69's, I thought I'd ask:

Are there really any DIY blades that are truly comparable in quality? I'm speaking with respect to the iron heads, of course.

Thought about just picking up a set of 33's on the cheap - I always loved those clubs. Like most ho's, though, I start looking at something that's shiny and new and I'm drawn like a magnet. I'd rather not part with a grand or whatever, so the thought crossed my mind re: building a set. I'm about 95% sure I'm not going to go the DIY route, but someone here with experience might change my mind (or convince me for sure that it was a foolish idea in the first place).

Thanks in advance.

Can you actually hit a golf ball 99% of the time on the sweet spot?  From what (I THINK ?) you said you don't and blades would be foolish.

Wishon - Search for the Perfect Golf Club page 58

"If you are, however, a mere mortal and don't hit it on center 99 percent of the time, then get smart and get a cavity back. I mean, over half of the tour pros use cavity backs,so that should tell you something..."

==============================================

If you are not an expert caliber striker are you loaded with $? From what you said you are not

If blades don't work out then you have $ sitting un-used.  On the other hand blades are fantastic for use on the practice field as they provide instant feedback via the signiture ball flight based on how you hit it.  I cannot justify hundreds of dollars for pretty blades just to kick around for practice. I have a 1963 set of Hogan IPT blades. they are in like new condition due I suppose to guality metalurgy and plating back then. they are pretty but I don't care really as I use Cavities for playing. Although When I do use these on short beginner courses for giggles they are proudly perched in my bag even if they do hit 2 clubs shorter.   I have a Mizuno MP-30 sitting next to me as I type that I tried one day. It lauched 2 balls directly over the tee box on the hole to the right. there are no magical qualities in Mizuno irons. They are like fishing lures. Designed to catch fisherman and not fish.  I agree Mizuno are beauties but the LUST must be tempered with wisdom.  That women may be gorgious but the rest of your live would be hell if you take the bait.

Plan of attack.

1 ) Get a set of cavities to play with

2) get a relatively cheap set of Hogan blades off ebay to fulfil this itch that needs scratching

http://www.google.com/search?q=hogan+irons&hl;=en&rlz;=1T4GZGN_enUS484US484&prmd;=imvnsfd&tbm;=isch&tbo;=u&source;=univ&sa;=X&ei;=o9EbUOqXE6rD0QH2pIHgDA&ved;=0CF8QsAQ&biw;=1441&bih;=621

======

You can buy older top of the line modles used much cheaper than building new component stuff.   Golf clubs are like cameras, TV's etc. People read magazines and stuff and are convinced that last years model has been rendered completely obsolete by this years. They simply cannot be seen with last years and they sell it.


Posted
Can you actually hit a golf ball 99% of the time on the sweet spot?  From what (I THINK ?) you said you don't and blades would be foolish.

I hit the ball well enough to play blades. I played 33's for years and consistently kept my index between 2-3 with periodic revisions at scratch. I stated playing twice/week and my index increased to 7-8. I purchased CB clubs at that time, but the switch didn't make any difference in my ball striking. I ended up selling the 33's and keeping the CB's (a mistake) more because of the money I'd spent on the new clubs and the age of the 33's than any benefit the CB's added to my game. Really, the jump in my HC at the time was due to poorer driving and a not as crisp short game from playing/practicing less than it was to my ball striking. I was trying to buy game, but really, I knew better. All of that was years ago. Today, I consistently shoot in the 70's, and again, it isn't typically my ball striking with irons that keeps me from shaving strokes off of my index. I'm older and need softer shafts, too, and the clubs I have could be refitted and would work just fine. I don't think my index will be affected either way (buying new clubs or not) but I just don't like the clubs I'm playing now (never have, really). It's more aesthetics than anything else, and we could talk all day about how a fool and his money are soon parted. [quote] Wishon - Search for the Perfect Golf Club page 58 [[/quote] I checked out the Wishon site. Excellent info - thanks. [quote] "If you are, however, a mere mortal and don't hit it on center 99 percent of the time, then get smart and get a cavity back. I mean, over half of the tour pros use cavity backs,so that should tell you something..." [/quote] I hear ya. I have opinions about this, but it would be moving off-topic. I appreciate the comments. [quote] If you are not an expert caliber striker are you loaded with $? From what you said you are not [/quote] It really isn't about the money. I'm a craftsman of sorts, so the idea of building a set of irons has some appeal. Also, why pay for a manufacture's advertising, overhead, etc. if there are better products available that might still save some scratch? I'm not saying there are, hence my OP. As I said originally, I'm most inclined to purchase a major brand, whether it's new or used. [quote] You can buy older top of the line modles used much cheaper than building new component stuff.   Golf clubs are like cameras, TV's etc. People read magazines and stuff and are convinced that last years model has been rendered completely obsolete by this years. They simply cannot be seen with last years and they sell it. [/quote] Couldn't agree more, that's why I said I was considering purchasing a used set of 33's. If money was really an issue, I probably wouldn't play golf, but that's another topic. I play or practice almost every day again, and I want to love my golf clubs when I set up for a shot. Right now, I don't. That's all it boils down to, really.

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


Posted

I play the MP 68, and in my humble opinion, you will not find a DIY club head that meets, let alone exceeds, the quality, feel, and playability of a Mizuno.  I've hit some of the DIY club heads and could not find one that came close to a Mizuno.

Craig 

Yeah, wanna make 14 dollars the hard way?


Posted

This is sort of the catch 22 with diy clubs, I suppose.  You can't try them until you build them, and don't know what to build until you try them.

Dan

:tmade: R11s 10.5*, Adila RIP Phenom 60g Stiff
:ping: G20 3W
:callaway: Diablo 3H
:ping:
i20 4-U, KBS Tour Stiff
:vokey: Vokey SM4 54.14 
:vokey: Vokey :) 58.11

:scotty_cameron: Newport 2
:sunmountain: Four 5

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Posted
Originally Posted by dsc123

This is sort of the catch 22 with diy clubs, I suppose.  You can't try them until you build them, and don't know what to build until you try them.

This was a part of the problem I was facing. I've decided to order 69's (still deciding on shafts), so thanks to everyone for responding.

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


Posted
Originally Posted by LovinItAll

This was a part of the problem I was facing. I've decided to order 69's (still deciding on shafts), so thanks to everyone for responding.

That's a fine choice and I wish you the best. Just don't pretend you're saving any money.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
That's a fine choice and I wish you the best. Just don't pretend you're saving any money.

I don't understand. Why would I pretend I'm saving any money? I already said that I think going with a big, commercial brand might cost more money, not less.

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


Posted
Originally Posted by LovinItAll

I don't understand. Why would I pretend I'm saving any money? I already said that I think going with a big, commercial brand might cost more money, not less.

It had been suggested by others (Maverick) that going the component route was more expensive than buying a full set. I just want to assure you and anyone else it's not the case. I wasn't trying to be negative, MP69s are a good choice if you decided you're willing to spend decent money.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
It had been suggested by others (Maverick) that going the component route was more expensive than buying a full set. I just want to assure you and anyone else it's not the case. I wasn't trying to be negative, MP69s are a good choice if you decided you're willing to spend decent money.

Got it. I always expected that going the component route would be less money unless there was some exotic clubhead I'd never run across. My guess is that a high quality head would be just as good (maybe better) as a Mizuno head, but I decided I just didn't want to mess with it. I've got a shop with two unfinished projects in it right now. All I need is my wife reminding me how she's ready for her dining room table to be finished while I work on something else.

  • Upvote 1

In The Bag: - Patience - Persistence - Perseverance - Platitudes


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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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