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I would also like to add, that as I mentioned earlier, if the swing isnt consistent it is near impossible to give a good fit. So if the fitter gives the customer a club that is designed for a better motion, that to me does them more service than giving them a club specifically designed to mask their flaws... but that is just my opinion

You're saying that one should not get club fitting until one's swing is (quite) consistent? I'm a bogey golfer and in good days I can tell you my swing is fairly consistent and I hit the ball fairly consistently, but in bad days I just wish I'd pick other easier sport to play. Should I still get fitted? Statically or dynamically? Or perhaps both?

By the way, there is this question I've been wanting to ask to a professional club fitter. I'm 5'6" tall and I've been swinging with off-the-rack clubs (std length and std lie). In regards to a normal swing, should I get flatter lie angle? Any inputs are greatly appreciated.
What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"

With respect to your height. A static fit is best done with your wrist to floor measurment (in flat shoes). I'd be guessing that someone who's 5'7" would be around 32" or so (just basing that on I'm 5'10" with a 34.75" wrist to floor). Wrist to floor is better 'cos you might be average height (average in golfing equipment is around 5'10" += 2-3 inches). Go to Golfsmith.com and do there online static fit for the clubs that you have and see what it comes out with.

It's possible that your swing plane etc. merits standard length, but you should really get fitted. You may need to get shorter clubs, and get the lie adjusted as well.

I'm a big fan of Tom Wishon's book "The Search for the Perfect Golf Club" (if you like reading golf books or indeed buying golf equipment this one is a must IMHO). I just looked up my guestimated wrist to floor for you in the book and your driver should be about 42" in length. Assuming you are using a spanking new driver that's 45" or so, then your driver is way too long for long (looking at the video it looks a little long for you, but you did get a nice hit on it, but I wonder how often that happens ).

One interesting thing to note from the book about driver length is that using a robotic arm to test distances for someone that has a 90mph swing speed is that a 42" driver will hit 210 carry and the 45" will hit 211. So you are gaining only one yard on length but that extra 3" is more than likely causing you a lot of off center hits. If your are off by 1/4" you'll loose around 5 yards, 1/2" you'll loose 10. So it's far better to have a driver more fitted to your height than use off the shelf clubs. It's also worth noting that the average driver length on tour is 44.5", of those guys aren't going long then us amatures... well you know where I'm going here.

Mizuno F-50 3W DS S300
Titleist 906F2 5W UST V2
Titleist 585.H 21 DG S300
Mizuno MP-FLIHI 4 DG S300
Mizuno MP-32 5-PW DG S300Mizuno MP-R 52.07 DG Wedge FlexMizuno MP-R 56.13 DG Wedge FlexTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 60.04 DG Wedge FlexScotty Cameron Studio Newport 2


You're saying that one should not get club fitting until one's swing is (quite) consistent? I'm a bogey golfer and in good days I can tell you my swing is fairly consistent and I hit the ball fairly consistently, but in bad days I just wish I'd pick other easier sport to play. Should I still get fitted? Statically or dynamically? Or perhaps both?

As the previous poster said, definitely get fitted. I'd guess at least 60% of the people that buy from the store I work at end up getting some kind of adjustment from standard when they buy irons.

Since you said you are 5'6, it's quite possible that you might need a slightly shorter club and/or a flatter lie, but that depends on your swing. In my case, I'm 6'3, but I only measure 1/4" over standard length. The biggest difference for me was the dynamic part of the fitting where I measured 2 degrees upright. During the static measurement I was measuring at the line between standard and 1/4" over so the fitter had me hit a bunch of shots with both lengths and told me that I was making more consistent contact with the longer club. The extra length is hardly noticeable to me, but the lie angle definitely makes a difference. I can't really think of anything to lose by getting fitted. As far as the driver length goes, I've seen all kinds of different theories. I've seen guys over 6'5 playing 44" drivers and guys around 5'5 playing 46" drivers. Currently mine is at the standard 45" but I've only played one round so haven't had enough time to decide if I'm going to cut it down a bit. I'll probably end up cutting it down at least 1/2", but I want to give it some more time on the course before doing that.

New Driver Ordered
New 3 Wood Ordered
Two New Hybrids Ordered
I-701 Irons 5-PW w/ Rifle 5.0
Callaway X-Forged Vintage Wedges 50/12, 54/14, 58/10 (C-Grind Sole) w/ Rifle 5.5Yes! Marilyn 33" Z-URS ||| SkyCaddie SG 2.5 ||| Clicgear Model 2.0


With respect to your height. A static fit is best done with your wrist to floor measurment (in flat shoes). I'd be guessing that someone who's 5'7" would be around 32" or so (just basing that on I'm 5'10" with a 34.75" wrist to floor). Wrist to floor is better 'cos you might be average height (average in golfing equipment is around 5'10" += 2-3 inches). Go to Golfsmith.com and do there online static fit for the clubs that you have and see what it comes out with.

Thank you for your response. I did get fitted using GolfSmith Smartfit before, I just thought I'd hear some comments from fellow golfers. If I remember my spec for static fitting should be a half-inch shorter and 2 deg flatter. But I just can't really tell how my swing is until I get fitted properly. Who knows I might just need 1 deg flatter instead of 2 deg.

That Wishon's book, I'll look for it Anyway, you guessed it right my driver is 45" long and my shot pattern is fade or sometimes I do slice it. I've tried choking down my grip and honestly felt I was able to put more control on my shot. It's just that most of the times I'm being too stubborn and try to bomb it. The result ain't pretty and I just wish I could take it back. Anyway I'll keep in mind getting fitted and thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.
As the previous poster said, definitely get fitted. I'd guess at least 60% of the people that buy from the store I work at end up getting some kind of adjustment from standard when they buy irons.

I agree with you, I was thinking that lie angle greatly affect club impact. Frankly I'm more concerned with lie angle than the length of the club because I need the consistency of hitting the ball. One question is, what was the difference when you hit the balls with standard lie and 2 degree upright? Was it you tend to hit the balls with the toe side of the club? Or perhaps your shot tend to be a fade shot? Or probably something else?

What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"

Who knows I might just need 1 deg flatter instead of 2 deg.

Absolutely, it may even be that you need standard?

That Wishon's book, I'll look for it

Yeah, it's a good read. Lots of interesting info, especially for someone who's not average height (with respect to the golf industry).

Anyway, you guessed it right my driver is 45" long and my shot pattern is fade or sometimes I do slice it. I've tried choking down my grip and honestly felt I was able to put more control on my shot. It's just that most of the times I'm being too stubborn and try to bomb it. The result ain't pretty and I just wish I could take it back. Anyway I'll keep in mind getting fitted and thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.

If anything trying to overhit will usually end up going shorter and more than likely into the trees

when you over hit you invariable loose tempo. Speaking of which can't recommend John Novosel's "Tour Tempo" book enough as well. Two drills and a CD with tempo rhythms on it to get your timing in sync. Love the practical simplicity of it. My tempo is pretty much spot on when I'm hitting well, but never really understood why sometimes it'd all just feel wrong!!! now I have drills that I can take to the course to help me get my tempo back. Here's the website!! http://www.tourtempo.com/
I agree with you, I was thinking that lie angle greatly affect club impact. Frankly I'm more concerned with lie angle than the length of the club because I need the consistency of hitting the ball. One question is, what was the difference when you hit the balls with standard lie and 2 degree upright? Was it you tend to hit the balls with the toe side of the club? Or perhaps your shot tend to be a fade shot? Or probably something else?

Well tried +- 1 degree when I got fitted. 1 upright for me would result in heel hits (which makes sense 'cos at address toe is more up, although I wouldn't go on look at address, impact is where it all matters, the moment of truth as they say

), 1 flatter would result in toe hits. From memory they went straight??? but I couldn't get a nice clean contact, so distance and height were effected.

Mizuno F-50 3W DS S300
Titleist 906F2 5W UST V2
Titleist 585.H 21 DG S300
Mizuno MP-FLIHI 4 DG S300
Mizuno MP-32 5-PW DG S300Mizuno MP-R 52.07 DG Wedge FlexMizuno MP-R 56.13 DG Wedge FlexTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 60.04 DG Wedge FlexScotty Cameron Studio Newport 2


After playing for a while with ancient unfitted clubs that I got at a garage sale for $1 each, I treated myself to some fitted clubs this week. They ended up having to be lengthened an inch and bent FIVE degrees up. Just *slightly* different than my old clubs.

After playing for a while with ancient unfitted clubs that I got at a garage sale for $1 each, I treated myself to some fitted clubs this week. They ended up having to be lengthened an inch and bent FIVE degrees up. Just *slightly* different than my old clubs.

Are you sure 5 degrees up? Thats quite drastic.

Driver: 9.5* SQ Sumo Stiff
3W: 15* SQ Stiff
Irons: 3-PW R7 Stiff Flex
GW: X Tour Vintage 52 11 bounce
SW: X Tour Vintage 56 13 bounceLW: X Tour Vintage 60 8 BouncePutter: Monza CorzaBall: HX Tour 56


Are you sure 5 degrees up? Thats quite drastic.

Yep. I'm about 6'6"-6'7".

The first guy in the shop said they couldn't bend them that much and that I'd need to special-order forged irons, but the manager came by and said he had bent the same set that far and would do it himself.

Yep. I'm about 6'6"-6'7".

OK it just seemed a lot. Im 6'4" and mine are 3 up.

If you are ever buying a current years model of club, it is worth getting fitted. It gives you the opportunity to play the best you can with your equipment. Before i had clubs way to short and i would top the ball all the time. After the fitting, i have topped the ball once in the my last 3 rounds and it added 10 yards to all my irons.

Driver: 9.5* SQ Sumo Stiff
3W: 15* SQ Stiff
Irons: 3-PW R7 Stiff Flex
GW: X Tour Vintage 52 11 bounce
SW: X Tour Vintage 56 13 bounceLW: X Tour Vintage 60 8 BouncePutter: Monza CorzaBall: HX Tour 56


Well tried +- 1 degree when I got fitted. 1 upright for me would result in heel hits (which makes sense 'cos at address toe is more up, although I wouldn't go on look at address, impact is where it all matters, the moment of truth as they say

So did you go with 1 degree flatter? I think you already know this but they do offer .5 degree increment/decrement as well.

What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"

Nah, standard lie was fine for me. With impact tape on the sole the +1 and -1 were centered about the same distance from center.

Mizuno F-50 3W DS S300
Titleist 906F2 5W UST V2
Titleist 585.H 21 DG S300
Mizuno MP-FLIHI 4 DG S300
Mizuno MP-32 5-PW DG S300Mizuno MP-R 52.07 DG Wedge FlexMizuno MP-R 56.13 DG Wedge FlexTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 60.04 DG Wedge FlexScotty Cameron Studio Newport 2


Note: This thread is 6400 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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