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Posted

Hit with a club that had a golf pride multi compound mid-size grip the other day and fell in love with it. Im gonna swap out my stock grips for some mid-sized ones. Whats the best grip out there for the money? The golf prides felt great but they are pretty pricy...


Posted

Check out the Winn Dri-Tac midsize. Fairly soft, helps out with even grip pressure.

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  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Posted
Originally Posted by WUTiger

Check out the Winn Dri-Tac midsize. Fairly soft, helps out with even grip pressure.


Those were the grips I had in mind before i realized i liked the midsize. But even though they are the dri series ive heard quite a few complaints about them getting slick when wet which would be a problem because my hands sweat like crazy year round... other than that i love the feel of them


Posted

Get the golf pride ones, they're the best grip out there. If you play with a glove or don't have dainty hands, the cord surface won't bother you. I regularly hit around 300 balls at a time bare handed and only get blisters from my left index finger rubbing my other hand, never the club itself. I might even put one of these on my putter some time. And don't buy that crap about grip size affecting your ball flight. If that were true I wouldn't be able to draw anything but my wedges, which I absolutely do, and I'd be hooking my off the rack lob wedge like crazy; I think as long as your grip is comfortable and you don't change where you place your hands to adjust to the new size, the size and profile that feels best is the winner. Not a part of the club I'll ever tinker with since I found my size and model.

They aren't cheap, but remember cords will last longer than normal grips because they don't rely on tack and the texture is much more durable due to the fabric. So maybe you pay around 100 bucks to regrip when it comes time to do so, but you may be able to double or triple your mileage compared to cheaper non cord grips. I think it's a good investment, especially if you have a couple grips done at a time. I'm not able to afford to change grips much and I hate to throw out ones without any wear, but when I have a club built or reshafted I like to spend the 3 or 4 extra dollars to make it really comfortable. Only downside is that I might need a new bag because my 20$ one doesn't like 14 thick grips jammed together in the bottom.

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Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
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Posted

If you can get over the spider logo I would take a look at Black Widow grips. I have a Black Widow Widow Maker black midsize grip on my driver. Half-corded and is basically completely black in color. I suppose you could install the grip upside-down if you want an even stealthier appearance.

Price for the Widow Makers (per one of the larger retailers, not sure if we can link or name-drop on here) are $8.19 ea

Still expensive but they are cheaper than the Golf Pride New Decade Multicompound Cord midsize black grip that I believe you are talking about in your original post. The GP's are half-corded as well but $9.99 ea in price.

I have first hand experience with the Widow Makers that's why I would recommend them. I'm sure there are other options for you to explore too, though.

Putter:   - Zing 2

Wedge:  49° 54° & 58°

Irons:     - ADX 100; 4-10

Hybrid:  - 909H

Driver:   - '09 Burner


Posted

i don't like the winn ones at all. they do get slick with sweaty hands and i just don't feel comfortable with them. if i'm scared it's going to slip then i'm over-tightening my hand and wasting the benefit of the soft grip.

i use midsize tour velvet by golf pride. i think they run $4-$5 per. had them for probably over 50 rounds/driving range trips and aren't showing any sign of wear.

Edit: those are on my woods/hybrids, i have lamkin crosslines on my irons. i think they're called that.

 G25 Driver (10.5* Stiff Flex)

 G20 3 Wood (15* Stiff Flex)

 i15 3 Hybrid (20* Stiff Flex)

 i20 Hybrid (23* Stiff Flex)

 JPX 800 (5-AW)

 T11 54* (9* Bounce) and 58* (10* Bounce) w/DG Spinner Shafts

 Tracy

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Posted

I just regripped wit the winn dri tec midsize and I love em.... I was looking for a grip that wouldnt slip and even though most people say they do, I havent had an issue yet.  Even with sweaty hands and 95 degree weather.


Posted

I like the multi compound grips from golf pride also. There is also a China factory vendor that makes equivalents that are pretty cheap, but I can't recall their name....

Since I had just switched all my grips to the tour velvet to get the jumbo size, I wanted to wait to get them and not trash out the new velvets.  So I just did the woods and my hybrid to start (4 grips).  At $9 each it's a bigger investment than just the tour velvets at $4.50.....  Hitting those clubs the last few months has also confirmed these are a good fit for me.

For the irons remaining.....I figure I can do a couple every week or so after the season is over.  (the color I wanted only came in mid-size, so it also takes three extra tape wraps for me - total of 4).

You can save your current grips too if you have the air compressor setup.

I asked a local fitter and pro about it (since I build up to jumbos even though my hands are mid-size measurements and the red/black multi-c's only came in midsize) and he agreed with the up-poster about just finding the size that works for you.  The 'general' rules about size are just that - general.  If another fit (bigger or smaller) feels right and you get good results, then go for those.  He noted it was no big deal to deviate from those.  Frankly, 'regular' sized grips just feel tiny to me and hard to hold and control.

do your own grips - it's easy and you save a ton too.  That helps the cause as well.

Bill - 

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    • That makes no sense at all.  so, I watched that Instagram. Here is a summary...  Bryson.... Address: Trail Shoulder 0 degrees adduction. P4: Trail Shoulder 65-deg abduction. Impact: Right shoulder 15-deg abduction. P9: 10 degrees adduction. Rory... Address: Trail Shoulder 16 degrees adduction. P4: Trail Shoulder 26 degrees abduction. Impact: Right shoulder 0 degrees abduction.  P9: 18 degrees of adduction.  DJ... Address: Trail Shoulder 4 degrees adduction. P4: Trail Shoulder 42 degrees abduction. Impact: Right shoulder 2 degrees abduction.  P9: 15 degrees of adduction.  Their point is that arm doesn't stay on the trail side. That the arms have to get across the chest from P4 to P9. I mean they do. What matters is the rate of which it happens relative to the position of the swing. The trail shoulder at P9 is not abducted a lot. The range of that total abduction movement is like 40 to 70 degrees. Bryson might be an outlier. Rory might be an outlier as well.  A couple of points.  1. None of them had any adduction at impact. So, this tells me the trail arms stays on the trail side of the body at impact. Is it moving towards lead shoulder, yes. It doesn't happen till post impact. The right side of the body is moving towards the target, so the arms don't have to as much as people think.  2. Trail shoulder adduction from Impact to P9 is 18 to 25 degrees.  3. P9 adduction of the trail shoulder is only about 2 to 12 degrees more adducted than at address. The arms/hands stay in front of the chest a long-time post impact. If Rory, from his address position just rotated his body towards the target and raised up his arms so he is at P9. He basically didn't have to move his trail arm further across his chest than where he started at address. Visualize that for a bit. I bet for people who tend to stall and drag their arms across their body to hit the ball, that would emphasize how much the arms stay in front of the body and how much you have to turn.             
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