Jump to content
IGNORED

wrong diameter shaft for reshafting my driver?


olduffer
Note: This thread is 6124 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys!
I need some advice. I recently bought a Callaway x 460 driver and wanted to change the shaft from stock to an Aldila nvs 65 stiff. I found one in the package on ebay and bought it for 50 bucks. I thought I had made a good deal until the guy I sent the club to to change shafts called me and said my shaft is too small in tip diameter??????? I had no idea there were different tip diameters for different drivers! ( pardon my dumbness)
Anyway, the X460 is a through bore head design. Is there a way to make the .335 diameter shaft fit that head? Is there some shim or something that can be installed? Please help this Olduffer!!!!!!!!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I am by no means a club building expert, but Golfsmith makes a converter. You can find it here.....

http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/products...l-_-cm-_-0-_-1

I am not sure if they are meant for the bore-through heads or not. I am also not sure what you are going to see in performance changes in the club. I would call Golfsmith, or better yet, a certified club builder and see what you options are.
In My Bag
Driver: R5 TP 9.5 Diamana
3 Wood: V-Steel 15* UST V2
5 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrids: Heavenwood 20* UST V2 Rescue Mid 22* UST V2Irons: RAC LT2 5-9 Project X FlightedWedges: RAC Black TP 47* 51* 55* 60*Putter: White Hot 2 BallBalls: One Black
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I am by no means a club building expert, but Golfsmith makes a converter. You can find it here.....

This adapter works best on non Callaway bore-through heads (But will still do the job). I have shimmed bore-through heads before but I don't like doing it. The ones I have done are for personal use or those clubs belonging to friends. I personally don't like using this approach for my customers.

Hi Guys!

For your X460 you are far better off getting a new shaft (mr personal opinion). Mainly because of the bore-through design. I mean really you can buy a brand new NVS for around $90 so the extra $40 bucks spent is well worth the price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

For your X460 you are far better off getting a new shaft (mr personal opinion). Mainly because of the bore-through design. I mean really you can buy a brand new NVS for around $90 so the extra $40 bucks spent is well worth the price.

I would have to agree that buying the proper shaft is most definitely the way to go. I have never hit a driver that has been modified like that, but would have to guess that you would lose something in performance doing that. Spend the money and reshaft it properly.

In My Bag
Driver: R5 TP 9.5 Diamana
3 Wood: V-Steel 15* UST V2
5 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrids: Heavenwood 20* UST V2 Rescue Mid 22* UST V2Irons: RAC LT2 5-9 Project X FlightedWedges: RAC Black TP 47* 51* 55* 60*Putter: White Hot 2 BallBalls: One Black
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Guys, That's the thing!!!!! I did buy a brand new ( in the wrapper) NVS shaft. I looked on the aldila website and they only list a .335 diameter tip on that shaft. It appears on the Callaway website as one of the choices in the X460 driver. I assume they don't make two different sized driver head shaft holes???????? Must be some kind of sleeve or adapter to make this shaft fit the head?
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I've placed several .335 diameter shafts in Callaway .350 bore heads. It's no problem at all.

All I do is make sure I have these two items: The correct callaway .335 adapter ferrule available from Golfsmith or The Golf works for the proper clubhead. And I usually use shafting epoxy with the shafting beads. http://www.golfsmith.com/products/9312 It's a super fine powder mixed in that simply dampens and fills the slight void from the .350 to .335 shaft.

Regards,
Spyder


In the 07' R7 stand bag R7 425 9.5* Proforce 65 V2 (s) R7 Ti 3 wood ReAx (s) R7 draw rescue 19* ReAx (s) R7 TP irons 4-pw DG-S300 TP black RAC wedges: 52/8, 56/12, 60/6 F2 Hamilton HM4 or Scotty Cameron Red X2 cs Nike One platinum GolfLogix GPS8

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 6124 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • When I lived in Oregon my friend had a rule. It could only be 2 of the following 3 items for us to play. If all 3 we’d skip.    1. Windy (20+) 2. Rainy (needs to be steady, rain in Oregon is pretty common) 3. Cold (less than a high of 50) This was a pretty solid rule.    
    • Day 74: Worked on priority piece, full swing for about an hour this evening after dinner. Really need to exaggerate “hitting to right field feel” more than I think to produce slight push draw ball flight. 
    • Day 170 - Got some good work in on the short game, as well as more work on my priority piece. 
    • I searched around but didn’t see any other threads on this so I’ll put it here. I work in the laser industry and one of the applications has been additive manufacturing. The main market for the past 10 years has been SpaceX and the space industry and some medical applications. The new one I saw this week is 3D printing irons. Cobra and the company that they are using is marketing these irons pretty aggressively.  In talking with the folks in the booth at the trade show, the claim is that they can gain strength but reduce the weight to put it exactly where they want. The print of the iron is very cool. Mostly everything behind the face is a thin metal lattice and then in the heal and toe is a block of tungsten for weight.  I am old enough to remember the arguments about forged versus cast irons. I wonder if folks here will pay a bit more to get 3D printed irons.  They have a booth here where you can hit them but I hate lines and the line to do it is always long. I go again tomorrow, and if the line isn’t too long I’ll give it a try and report back.    Here are some pictures (I had some trouble uploading, I’ll try later)      
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...