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Everything posted by tefunk

  1. It may be worth starting with consideration of the AW you listed above (49*) that is specifically made as part if the Vapor Speed line that you are currently playing. That doesn't mean don't consider other options... But, there is already an AW specifically designed to work within that line of irons.
  2. What would be the purpose of "more" bounce on a gap wedge? It makes sense to me out of sand, but not sure I understand the benefit otherwise
  3. I don't use a GW around the green (within 20-30 yards), between the SW, LW & Putter... I feel I have almost every shot covered. The GW is more important on full shots or longer pitch shots. (Then again, it could vary person to person). The important thing to keep in mind when choosing one, is that it splits the distance gap between your SW and PW (I.e. Why they call it a gap wedge). The only way to do that is to hit the range or a launch monitor and find out what fits best. As far as bounce, you don't really need a lot of bounce with a GW. I think around 6 or 8 would be typical.
  4. Yea, wasn't Jerry Rice a +2 when he somehow got accepted (maybe because his name was involved in the tourney or something) to play in a web.com (nationwide at the time I think) event... And he shot like 15 over the first day?
  5. I wonder the caliber of the courses these rounds in the 60's were carded at? The kid I mentioned earlier was carding scores in the 60's at courses such as Oak Hill CC
  6. If you're real, and a +2, you still have a ways to go. A kid from my hometown, was a +5 in high school, was a top 3 college prospect, played in the US Open (but missed the cut), now playing D1 golf, and is ranked in the low 300's in the amateur rankings. So comparing the two of you, you have a ways to go
  7. I'd like to get a fitting at a tour level fitting center. I'd also like a laser rangefinder that calculates elevation differences (Gx 4i) Neither seem worth the money to me at this point though
  8. If I was in JF's shoes, I wouldn't play either. Causing further damage to an injury could potentially impact much more in future earnings... would be a bad idea
  9. About 3-4 years ago, I added/replaced a couple wedges that sure'd up that gaps in my short game. I do believe that knocked a couple strokes off my game. I was fit for a new driver a few months back, and my handicap has dropped 2 strokes in the past few months. I am more consistent off the tee since getting the new driver. So I think having "appropriate" clubs can help reduce the score/handicap. However, I do agree that improving the swing itself is a much larger piece of the puzzle
  10. OK, so I hit the short game practice area tonight. I picked a couple others balls in each comparable ball category. MTB - I compared the MTB to the Callaway HEX Black, and Titleist ProV 1x. All 3 balls were new, right out of their respective sleeves. What differences did I notice? Nothing! I hit all kinds of shots around the green, from 40 yards and in. There were no consistent differences between the three balls that I could tell. Get Sum - I compared the Get Sum to the Callaway Chrome + Soft, and Titleist NXT Tour. All 3 balls were new, right out of their respective sleeves. What d
  11. I agree, in fact it's pretty rare that any of them (if any) are playing a true blade. They're all playing some form of muscle back, or cavity back. In my opinion, the AP2 actually has a pretty good amount of forgiving properties for a "players" iron. There are really two perspectives on this topic, and I agree with both. - play the club that is best suited for your game/score (regardless if it's SGI, GI, or Players). - if you want to become a better, more consistent, ball striker... Using a players iron "could" help to achieve that (a commitment to practice and improving the swing would b
  12. I played the MP-33 for a year. For me, the logic was to become a better and more consistent ball striker... But I realized it would take a lot of effort, and my scores would suffer in the meantime. My game did improve quite a bit, and I became a much better iron player. I do not currently play blades, as I get better, more consistent, results from my MP-52. From personal experience, a blade style iron can help someone become a better player. However, it doesn't necessarily mean it's the best iron for that person. Along the lines of Lihu's comment, for me it was used as a training tool to
  13. Doesn't really solve your problem with that program, but... I just keep everything in excel and have created formulas to calculate everything once I enter the data. Maybe something like that could work for you going forward
  14. Played both balls today, 9 holes each. I was very happy with both balls. My Tour Ball - performed and felt great, from tee to green. I played 8 holes with one ball (lost it in the weeds off the 9th tee) only a very small "rub" (I can't think of what else to call it) on the ball, so very durable as well. It is very comparable to any tour level ball (but more durable). It does not "bite" quite as well as the HEX Black I'm used to playing, but it still seemed very good around the green.***see below*** Get Sum - performed and felt great, tee to green. My tee shots curved a bit less with thi
  15. Agreed. I just got the Snell sample pack and played Get Sum and My Tour Ball for 9 holes each today. You will not find a better ball in the "cheaper ball" category for under $30...
  16. tefunk


    Shar1ford - check out the Adams line of hybrid irons. I think they're called New Idea, or something like that.
  17. Sample pack arrived in the mail today. I'm going to put them in play tomorrow, and also give them a good short game test at the range on Monday while my daughter is at her lesson
  18. Yea, I saw them at Dicks, 2 dozen for $35. Seems like a good deal if you're looking to replenish
  19. Now that we've sorted that out... Versatile and reliable are two different things... Back to my original point. It doesn't make sense to count out or ignore a possible option, without trying it first. Once the options are exhausted, one will know what the best option is, without any question. And now I'll bow out, because if someone can't comprehend that by this point in the thread, they probably won't.
  20. Easier to hit and more reliable... I fully agree. Versatile, disagree. It's a lot easier to work a 4i than a 4h, because a hybrid is generally going to be more forgiving. Keep in mind as well, we're talking about Rsi irons, which in the longer irons are going to be forgiving (and have more of a hybrid characteristic). We're not talking about a Titleist CB or something
  21. Because you have a clue regarding my game? Right The 4i in the RSi is basically a hybrid... Or a shovel. You pick
  22. "Might be" is key. No need to rule it out, until he tries it. When I was a higher handicapper, I hit a 4i better than a 4h, and still do. May not be the case for him, but it also may be... I think it would be more difficult to find a 4h that has a good gap distance from the the 5i, than it would be to find a 4i... The reason it's a better starting point for consideration. [quote name="WUTiger" url="/t/84499/newby-hybrid-help#post_1200830"] A 4H would be much more versatile than a 4i. [/quote] I disagree, I think a 4i gives one more versatility/shots than a 4h. However, that's if one is
  23. Whether it's right or wrong, what has always made sense to me is to sure up the distance gaps from the shorter clubs, and work out to the longer clubs from there. So, It might make sense to start with trying out/demo a 4 iron (specially the RSi since that's what you already have). See what that does for your longer club gap and how it plays (I.e. Does it work for you). If the 4 iron works, then the next step might be looking into whether a hybrid or 5w works out best from there. If it doesn't work, then start testing out the 4h to see what that does for you.
  24. If it's over 40 degrees and the courses are letting people out, I'll golf. SLC has pretty mild winters (in the valley), I've played every month so far this year. Back east I'd typically be able to play up through November, and as early as late February... Just depends when the snow would start and end.
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