95124hacker

I have an Epon EMB with Diamana shaft if you're interested. It has a forged face, and is very straight. PM me for more details.

I've gone all JDM (Japan Domestic Market) lately. Here's what I'm bringing to my club tourney this Sunday: Driver: jBEAM FX BM-435 9.5* w/ Basileus Fiamma 60 shaft, 45" 3W: S-Yard XT 15* w/ stock "made for" GD Tour AD 5W: S-Yard XV 18* w/ NS Regio Formula 65 Utility: PRGR Egg i+ 4UT 21* w/ stock shaft 5-PW: PRGR iD Nabla Black Forged w/ Tour AD 75's GW: Miura Giken WMF-03 53* w/ TT D/G SW: Dance With Dragon 56* w/ stock steel LW: RomaRo Alcobaca Scoop 60* w/ stock steel Putter: Hiro Matsumoto MZ-10, 33"

Will Brasso and steel wool remove the sticky residue left behind from shaft labels?

I prefer iron-like hybrids (aka "driving irons") vs wood-like (wide sole), for the reason that I don't feel comfortable with ball position. I'm not a good ball striker in general but find wood-like hybrids the hardest clubs to hit consistently for me. 2nd hardest are FW woods for me.

XXIO is the 2nd most popular brand in Japan (so I've read), and is owned by Dunlop. Lately, I've been exploring the Japanese OEM's and have assembled my own Japanese bag. Once I receive all the clubs I've ordered, I'll post a WITB photo.

Could also be the kick point of the shafts. If you think you're ballooning, then go with a high kick point.

Thanks for the very detailed review of the e5. I'm currently pitting that against other "value " urethane balls: TM RBZ Urethane (older) Maxfli U-series (3-4-6-6LC) MG Golf Tour C4 Based on playing 9 holes this morning, the RBZ Urethane nudged out the U/6. The e5 is still inconclusive for me. I'll be playing the RBZ Urethane in my club tournament this Sunday.

I started regripping my clubs (plus a friend's) recently. I also don't use a vise, just my hands to hold and push. I must have done 30 clubs in the past 2 months. I highly recommend this plastic grip installation tool they sell for $10. It spread opens the mouth of the grip when first sliding it on. A time saver!

I have a Vega VW-04 60* LW on the way. Can't wait to hit with it!

I bought a pair in red/black a few hours ago at my local PGA SuperStore. Paid $79 though (after $20 coupon). Matches my Nike Air Sport Lite bag.

I also used to buy something from the pro shop at nice courses with their logo. I usually try to find their clearance rack for a polo ir sweater. If not, then I get a hat/visor or something under $30. I never had a bad experience with most pro shop apparel brands but I like wicking type materials (Dri-Fit, Clima-Cool, etc) and short sleeves without elastic at the arm opening.

I've been ho-ing golf balls lately. After a 6-year hiatus from playing, I can't believe all the deals for urethane-cover tour quality balls for $2/ball or less. I've purchased recently these dozens: MG Tour C4 (2 doz) Maxfli U/3 Maxfli U/4 Maxfli U/6 Maxfli U/6 LC T.M. Rocketballz Urethane (2 doz) Nike 20XI Nike 20XI-X Bridgestone e5 Haven't played a round with any of these yet. Jury is still out on Cally Chrome Soft.

I played 8 holes with an e6 yesterday, and my scoring was better than normal. It was surprising because I'm used to urethane balls. From the 9th hole onward, I played NXT Tour and Chrome Soft for comparison, and my scoring was worse. Perhaps there were other factors other than the ball, but it made me a believer of the e6. Now I want to try the e5 and e7. I wished I signed up for the ball test now! At half the cost of Pro V1's, I think e5/e6/e7 may be my new ball...

I don't really "get" the Mini Driver craze. When I first started playing, I gamed a 2W (Callaway "The Deuce"), and now I game both an r7 Superquad 460cc driver and a Ping TiSI Tec (323cc). 323 is "mini" compared to 460cc, and I didn't have to pay $279.99 for one. It was sitting in my garage the whole time.

I think it depends on your stroke. The fatter versions I think are good for those who swing straight back/straight through. If you are an arc putter, then I think you need a midsize or standard. Anyway, their website walks you through their fitting. But it recommended Flatso Mid for me, but when I went to the store, I bought the full size Flatso instead (felt better in my hands).

Update: I found some ML RH Cadet Callaway Warbird's but they are synthetic leather, not cabretta. They were dirt cheap so I ordered 6. Did not find the matching LH so I ordered some Callaway Fusion Pro's (cabretta), similar looking.

I'm right handed but prefer to wear 2 gloves because my hands dry really easily and crack (from eczema). I have short fingers so I need a cadet glove. I've been searching and can't seem to find any RH Cadet golf gloves out there. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I personally wouldn't get the Wilsons. The Fat Shaft idea is a gimmick. I would recommend a used set of Mizuno MX-900's (forged GI irons). I have the MX-900 4-iron and 5-iron to complement my JPX-800 Pro 6-GW, and they are very user friendly! I like Titleist AP1's also, but never owned a set (rented them on vacation last summer).

Be careful... this is how people start becoming a golf equipment "ho"! LOL. Are you currently taking lessons from a pro? I started taking them after a 6-year layoff from playing and it's been a very rewarding experience. After my 2nd lesson, I had my lowest 9-hole score for as long as I can remember. For me, lessons are money well spent, as long as you find the right instructor. I'd be a hypocrite by suggesting you don't buy new clubs, as I'm a self-professed "ho" myself. Just know that there's no miracle set of equipment that will lower your scores overnight, despite all the marketing. I try to buy used clubs to keep under my budget. There's nothing wrong with 3-5 year old clubs (or 10+ either), as long as they're in good condition (just cosmetic nicks & scratches that you'd get after a few rounds with new clubs anyway). But factor in cost of re-gripping (over $100 for a set) if you don't trust the hands that touched the clubs before you... Good luck and enjoy your new obsession...!

UPDATE: I snagged a brand new 2015 Precision Pro V400 laser RF (6X mag) off eBay for $159.99. Took it to the range today and I scoped 4 pins and compared it to the yardage marker/sign. One of the flags was 12 yards off (sign said 133, RF said 121), but later a guy next to me scoped the same 4 pins with his Bushnell and got all the same readings as me (including the pin that was off). So far, so good. Now have to try it on the course and check the long-term reliability. The scanning mode seemed to work well for me. The pin locking mode didn't seem any different and required a more steady hand. You can buy direct from the manufacturer for $199 if eBay isn't your thing.

Quote: LW. Vokey raw 260.08, but now switching back & forth with Eye2 61*. I love being creative around the greens with it, and not afraid to take full swings (even though most don't recommend it). 2nd choice is my TM X-300 FCI 8-iron - hit my only hole-in-one with it... enuf said.

I play at different courses in my area - some with prisms, some without, so I'm looking for ones with "pin seeker" technology. I found 2 within my budget: (1) Precision Pro V400, $160-$200 (eBay vs Amazon) (2) Leupold GX-1i (1-2 years older model), $240 Any advice? Thanks.

Never had one (keep in mind I took a 6-year hiatus from playing). What is the best valued range finder (Bushnell or Leupold)? I'm probably going to play 20 rounds this year. There were some on clearance at my local Golfsmith for $199.99. Did not write down any model numbers though. I'm ok with older models, but prefer new not used.

15-20 years ago, I used to check the "balance" of my golf balls by spinning them in an epsom salt solution (for buoyancy) and mark which side faced up (meaning "heavy" side of the ball was down). They sell this spinner called "Check Go Pro" that works on the same principle. When I putted, I made sure the marks always faced up so that the ball would roll "end over end". That was the era of wound, liquid-center balls. When the solid multilayer balls came out (Maxfli Revolution, Strata, etc.) came out, the balls were very consistent and there was no "heavy" side or ball imbalance any more. I would imagine the core being so far offset as shown in the picture would be imbalanced. Too bad it's a destructive test...

Reviving an old thread. I've been away from golf more or less the past 6 years, so I'm trying to play catch up. I'm used to playing the "tour" balls (Pro V1, V1x, urethane equivalents from Callaway, Nike, etc.). Played 9 holes yesterday, alternating holes between NXT Tour and the S model. Loved the feel of the S and it really seemed to jump off the face of the club (although very little feedback). I didn't really notice any differences in distance between them, but it was only 9 holes. Any of you guys who used both balls for a longer trial period have a recommendation between regular vs S models? I'm sure there are other companies' balls that are equivalent, but I'm narrowing it down to just these 2 for now.