tweaky

i've been using a FEEL Release on my putters for about 5 years now and have no plans on changing. i align the face with my target and don't need false input from a shaped grip.

went back thru the listings to 2007 and didn't see my 770CFES although the 870Tis are in there. surprised to see that they are "conventional".

i haven't hit the supperlaunchers yet, and i'm not inclined to unless i meet someone who has them. someone else who is a TaylorMade fanatic will probly chime in here tho'.

Wishon 770CFEs are THE MOST FORGIVING SGIs on the market, BAR NONE. Anyone who hasn't tried them just doesn't know. if you can't get fitted for a set and you like the "feel" of forged then the Titleist AP2s are second or possibly Taylormade R7s.

i also swing in the same range as you and when i run the trajectory profiler 13* launch angle with about 3,000 rpm spin is about the max carry and roll out you can get. it's not just the "take-off" that gets the total distance it's also the landing angle (around 35)*. the Trackman does not, nor does any other launch monitor, measure the actual spinning of the ball. all launch monitors use a logarithm (math) to deduce ball spin based on the way they track the path of the ball. launch monitors can be set up incorrectly and give incorrect results. if you can't get to a clubfitter then your best bet is to hit a bunch of drivers on the range and course and buy THE CLUB that you hit CONSISTENTLY well. NOT another one LIKE it, THE CLUB that you just hit consistently well.

any time you buy online it's a crapshoot as to whether you'll get clubs that actually fit your swing. if you can't take them to a reputable clubfitter who can work on them then you're basically stuck with what you bought. you'll be adjusting your swing to the club and not vice versa. there are no "standards" in golf. are you a "standard" golfer? the "deal" online may be a good "deal", for someone else.

what is your swing speed? are you swinging up on the ball? or are you swinging level through the ball? are you switching because your current driver isn't "performing" anymore? are you losing distance compared to when you first bought it? and did the Nike outperform the last driver you had? do you feel that you'd be "missing out" on something if you didn't buy the Titleist? i'm asking because i'm running the numbers you gave through the trajectory software and trying to figure out how they came up with those numbers and the recommendation. brad

Alpha C1 Pros are forged AND a GI due to them being a perimeter weighted (and cavity back) head. GI to me would infer that the mass of weight has been moved to the perimeter to increase the MOI of the head. like the difference between having the weights of a barbell close to the hands (i.e. "blades") vs having the weights at the ends of the bar ("GI and SGI", cavity back, etc.). if you've played your best golf with cavity backs/GI/SGI then why switch at all? just to prove you can do it? some would say that GI and SGI heads don't allow you to "work the ball". to that i call SHENNANIGANS (thanks Kyle!)! i and not a few others have proven that GI and SGI heads can work the ball quite the same as blades. if your whole goal in starting with GIs and SGIs is to eventually work up to "players" then go for it. i see many of the pros on tour using cavs and they don't seem to be doing to badly with them.

i picked up five copies of the paperback version at a local used book store for $1 each. two of them are first editions and the other three are 1985 reprints. i'll be giving them to "newbies" who come to me for clubwork. this and Dave Pelz's Short Game Bible are a must read! Also see Ben Hogan on Youtube. the Ed Sullivan Show clip in slo mo is the best.

Wishon 770CFE and 870Ti are far superior in forgiveness and playability to anything else on the market now and probably for the next foreseeable future. everything else that's "new" is only "different". you ARE asking for our OPINIONS, right?

don't listen to max power. my laminated maple Orlimar Solitaire, circa 1980s, is the schiznitz! and i agree that the best out there is the one you hit the best with. like my laminated maple that i hit 305 yards which is longer than any other driver i've ever hit.

you mean the FEEL Release grips? if so, i have and now use one on my putter. couldn't quite get used to the reverse taper for the rest of my clubs.

another point to consider is having the ACTUAL LOFT of the driver measured. if the salesperson you're dealing with doesn't actually measure it then RUN!!! you need to know what the loft is on the SPOT that you contacted WITH EACH HIT. the center of the face may not be 10.5* as stated by the marking on the bottom of the club. is the club face angle + or - ? if you hit on the launch monitor without the launch monitor being adjusted for the club yer hitting then you'll get a bunch of numbers. done the CORRECT way and you'll get useful information. i'm not just another pretty f!!cked up face!

since there is no "standard" for what is "regular" or "stiff" as shown by the Dynacraft Shaft Fitting Index and many of us clubfitters there are several shafts on the market that are marked as "regular" but match the swing profile for a fast swing speed (100+ mph). there is every chance that you'd find a "regular" flex shaft that suits you, BUT you won't find a "salesman" in a golf store who could tell you which ones. only those who do the research for themselves or understand how to use the DSFI or Wishon's Shaft Profiling program can tell you. then there's always the crapshoot method...

are the Mizunos .355" tapered hosels? if not you'll need to shim the shafts. many people have found that although the 5.5s were suggested they actually turned out to be too stiff whereas the 4.5 - 5.0 were a better "feel". the shafts you referenced are .355" taper tips and are "raw" length. if you buy them don't cut all of them at once. build your 6 iron first and go hit it. decide whether it feels right and adjust it accordingly. that way you won't waste a full set of shafts getting in a hurry. you'll be glad you did.

all kinds of good ones out there. Alpha, Wishon, Louisville, SMT, the list goes on. you won't know until you've tried them yourself.

i must be undercharging for my services if you think a custom fitted, dynamically adjusted, MOIed, FLOed, set of irons is more expensive. time consuming yes. i wanna spend a couple hours with my client on the first visit just discussing their needs, taking a few measurements, having them try out a few different designs, have a soda, review the video in slo mo, etc. hell, maybe I'M the cause of the recession!

the Golfworks has a guide- http://www.golfworks.com/category.asp?start=12&pc;=4&c;=34&c2c;=ln $14.95 it's the one on the far right.

i have my clients swing every club on the lie board because there are inconsistencies in the clubs and your swing that can require different lie angles than just saying all of them are .75* upright from some "standard" or even from one test club. i've often found that two clubs may require the same lie angle. you can check them yourself.

cost is about $5 for the clubs that need to be adjusted. i've done hundreds and not all clubs need to be adjusted. the lofts are done at the same time so make sure you mention whether your ball flight seems high or low with your clubs.

the short answer is you won't know until you've hit the best club ON THE COURSE. Launch monitors cannot tell true spin numbers, they all rely on a logarithm to deduce spin. and they can be set up to show "great numbers" for you just to make a sale (i've owned three of them in the $3500 range). just keep demo-ing them until you find THE ONE and then by THAT club- not another one LIKE it i mean THE ONE that you actually hit. if you're not going to see a clubfitter who can build one to your swing and feel then it's a crap shoot until you've stumbled upon one. good luck!

using a chart is only a guideline. your posture at address as well as your "feel" for the club must also be taken into account. choking down on the club will give you an idea of the "feel" of the club as far as the way it's balanced. you won't lose any distance by having shorter clubs unless they affect your normal posture to the point that you're having to swing differently than normal. i've built my clubs to match the way the 7 irron feels and now my 4 iron is only 3/4" longer than the 7 iron. no distance lost. there was a study done in the '70s regarding distance vs. club length. the results showed that if all the clubs were the same (head weight, shaft weight, grip weight, flex, etc)) and the only difference was the loft (4* between each club) then the distances differed by 10 - 15 yards between consecutive clubs. ever hear of the 1 Iron company?

loft is the most important aspect of the clubfitting as you should have found out by now. the shaft is for fine tuning once the proper loft is established. you'll never get the correct trajectory and spin rate with a six degree head on any shaft nor will a 12 degree head with any shaft if your swing speed is in the 100+ mph range. find someone in the business who'll back up your claim and have them post here. good luck.

i'll second this. been using the 770CFEs for the past four years and i've tried several different Wishon clubs and always had good results. All Wishon gets my vote.

^^all the above^^