Tifosinumerouno

Par 3: #16 TPC San Antonio Yes, that is a bunker in the center of the green. Par 4: #18 Whistling Straits "Dyeabolical" Par 5: #18 Pebble Beach

[IMG]http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac107/MOMAZBOI4U/RossBridge3.jpg[/IMG] I'm a big fan of Ross Bridge in Hoover, AL. Part of the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail, and available to the public.

When you look into shirts, please consider length. I'm also 6'4" with only a 32" inseam, so as you can tell I'm all torso. I'm also bigger across the chest and shoulders, and need cool, flexible fabrics if I'm gonna spend 4.5 hours outdoors. Also, a suggestion, my favorite older Under Armour polo was light colored with matching darker panels on the ribs that were not only vented for cooling, but also had a slimming look on me .

For me, the best and most consistent part of my game is my pitching. I have about a 100 foot deep yard where I practice hitting shots of different trajectories and distances, hitting towards targets such as the telephone pole or the unused gas meter. However, I chose irons as the most important part of my game because it's my least consistent part. The times I shoot the best scores are the times when I have the most GIR's, which is not very common. I can hit 10 fairways in a round, but I'm lucky to hit 6 greens because my iron play is so inconsistent. In retrospect, I could say that putting is also the most important, because even if I hit a crazy short sided flop shot over a bunker and get it to stop within 5 feet of a hole, I still can two putt for a bogey. However, if I had hit the green in the first place, I could 2 putt from 30 feet for par. So I guess those two are equally the most important, and equally bad parts of my game.

In all honesty, I haven't played much golf in the evening so I couldn't confirm that, but as the grass gets longer during the day, the grain has even more affect on the ball. Also, if the green is dormant, you probably won't see a shiny/dark coloring to the grass, so the edge of the hole should be a better indicator.

In North Texas, we mostly only have Bermuda. I played a course with bent grass when I was in Alabama, and found myself missing most putts outside the hole. Bermuda I think usually breaks more, but is ESPECIALLY sensitive to grain. With it dormant, it will he harder to see the grain (light/dark green colors are an indicator in spring and summer), so my best advice is to walk up to the cup. Unless you're one of the first groups to play a freshly cut hole, you'll see the spots on each cup that the grass is mangled looking. Whatever direction on the cup that is at is down grain, so if you're putting toward the hole and the beat up side is on your side of the cup, you're putting against the grain, so it will be a slower putt. Visa versa, if that side is on the opposing side of the cup, you're going down grain, and can be lightning fast. Same goes for side to side grains. Typically the grain follows the slope of a break, but sometime can be counter to it. So when you read a putt to break 4" left, it may break 18" left or none at all, depending on what direction the grain goes. The rough is also different with Bermuda, as I believe it tends to grab the face more than other types of grass. Someone will have to confirm or correct me on that one, I'm not 100% on that fact. My best advice though, is make sure you go to the cup and try to get a read on the grain. It can be as much if not more important than the overall slope. Hit practice putts from all around the practice holes, at dying pace, and watch how quickly and hard it can move your ball. Good luck!

I'm sorry, I should have updated sooner, but this item was sold long ago. It was a friend of mine's and when it didn't sell on here he sold it on ebay. Thanks for the interest.

The straightening of the right arm for me reminds me of a Black Belt breaking boards with a punch. To deliver the ultimate power, he doesn't straighten his arm at or before he hits the board. His arm is still slightly bent as he hits the board, still powering through impact. That's how you deliver the hardest hit, by still extending the arm through impact. I hit my best/most powerful shots when I think about this: Don't power at the ball, power through it. But yeah, that guy moves his head around like one of the examples of how NOT to pivot IN THE S&T; book!!

Callaway Razr Fit Xtreme: Some assembly required...

Hey guys, I was just wondering if anyone had any instructions on how to build a portable plane board. I'm about to be unable to play much golf, but I'll still be able to practice. I am wanting to have a plane board to help while at home that I could also break down into fairly small pieces to take to the range. I'm sure PVC is going to be my best bet. I saw Martin Hall's board with the curvedPVC, but haven't seen bent pipes with that wide of a radius before. Any help would be much appreciated.

I've been a member at a private and a public course, and my guests have always paid their own way. I let the know up front how much it will be. Sometimes it was too expensive, so we'd play somewhere else or I'd pay. I also paid for my Father-in-Law to play most of the time, but that's the way you do with family.

If you ever need to learn to hit the ball low, come on down to Texas. Here, we consider a 10 MPH wind to be a light breeze. I'm used to playing in 15-20 mph winds as the norm! The key is, as always, ball first, but then as was said, finish low. With the driver, I find its best in a HARD wind to make a slower, shorter backswing and just ease through the ball rather than coming into it aggressively. Again, if you need to keep it low, forget about the hybrid. They are meant to help get the ball up in the air with a good amount of spin, both of which are detrimental for hitting into the wind. Sure, it'll help down wind, but that wasn't what you were talking about. In strong winds (I've played in 30mph sustained and 45mpg gusts) I'll pull the hybrid completely out of the bag in favor of the good old 3 iron.

The music of that video reminds me soooooo much of this video: GIVE EM THE PICKLE!! http://youtu.be/ISJ1V8vBiiI

1. Tiger Woods - 274 2. Keagan Bradley - 276 T2. (3) Hunter Mahan - 276

Okay, I've got to chime in here. Firstly, as someone with ADHD, your posts are very difficult to follow. You must have a worse case of it than I do! That said, I agree with some of your observations. I think there are some built in motor skills that can easily be transferred over to the golf swing with a few tweaks here and there. One great example is the motion required to throw a medicine ball. When throwing a medicine ball sideways, your hips don't sway way over your back foot. They rotate back, your arms go in, back, and up. On the way down your arms drop passively, going down forward and out, maximizing the centrifugal force, and you "finish" with your weight forward, fully rotated, and with your arms extended. No chicken wing, no hanging back, it's just a natural motion. That said, you don't have to control the face of a medicine ball or time ball/turf contact. So while I can see how using basic, natural motor skills can be used to demonstrate proper moves to a beginner or to reprogram a problematic golfer, I can't see how someone could progress much past that without some more specific, detailed instruction. Also I don't think that NJF could possibly work for EVERYONE. You have already admitted that there is more than one way to learn, and I would put NJF into that category. It's a way to teach or learn, but not the ONLY way. I personally learn best from seeing someone doing something or having an instructor put me into a good position. In things other than golf, I learn best from seeing things done and then doing them myself. In summation, while I think you could definitely have a successful teaching program, I don't think your methodology is the BEST way for EVERYONE to learn. Those words are in caps because I do think that it COULD be the best way for SOME people. If you want the people on this site to take you seriously, you need to provide some proof or evidence of your claims other than just your words. I would say Golf is like a religion to most of us, and you're asking us to switch denominations just because you think your church is better! Right you're asking for faith from the skeptical, and those two just don't coalesce.

I found a TGM instructor in the general vicinity of where I live and contacted him through the TGM website. He called me today to introduce himself and asked me a few questions. He seemed very personable and flexible in his options, even saying he even comes to peoples' homes for the first few lessons sometimes because all we need is a hitting net and a mat with lines on it. Anyways, would it be beneficial for me to read the book prior to taking lessons from him or wait and allow him to show/teach me. He said his first lesson is mostly classroom, explaining the different lingo and such, so I'm thinking if I familiarize myself with that material prior, we can spend more time on my actual swing. I'm kind of excited to start with an instructor who can tell me more than "Shift your weight back" or "roll your wrists"

As a tall guy, I like the idea of having lie angle changeable as well. I could see it for the shorter guys, too. YE Yang's driver appears to have a flatter lie angle, but that could just be my imagination.

I have the 906f2, and feel like it has a bit too small of a head for me. It's not a very forgiving club for a higher handicap. It's more workable, but I would choose the 909 or 910 with a bit wider/larger head.

I think I just woke my pregnant wife up from a nap with that roar I just made for Tiger! It's gonna be a great finish!

I ground my putter. It's part of my routine to ground the putter and let go of the grip then regrip. It allows me to keep my hands loose and tension free.

All the lie board does is, well, lie angle, which is important but not as important as the correct shaft. I suspect the ball flight is higher than normal? You might be losing distance from ballooning alone. If Golf Galaxy told you to come back in I'd come back in. I'm certain that with their playability guarantee, you they're going to do whatever it takes to satisfy you. Even if they have to order you new clubs, they can still make a profit on your slightly used clubs.

The most important measurement in golf is the 6" between the ears. Sounds like you're getting into you own head. I have days like that where I don't feel comfortable over the ball, and those are the days I shoot higher scores. I can often save it in the middle of a round, though, if I REALLY focus on the shot I want to hit before I address the ball. It's called committing to the shot. If you aren't committed to the shot in your brain, how can you expect your body to pull it off? Try to stand back behind the ball and see your desired ball flight. I like to take a couple of practice swings while looking at my target, to really get the feel for the shot I'm about to attempt. There's a higher likelihood I'm going to hit an acceptable shot if I do that rather than get up and address the ball without knowing where I want it to go. Good luck!

Actually, Titleist's 910 series, Nike's STR8-Fit, and Srixon's STAR Fit all adjust lie angle as well. I think the Nike line is going to be the most affordable from what I can find on ebay. I just thought you guys might have known of another, maybe lesser known, model line that I was overlooking. Thanks.

I think the treads will last longer than you think. Traditional golf spikes put most of the pressure on 7 (or so) specific points that hang way below the rest of the shoe. These shoes, on the other hand, spread that load across more surface area, much closer to the sole of the shoe. As long as you don't drag your feet along the cart path, I'd imagine getting a solid year's worth of wear out of them.

Hi all, I'm looking for a driver and fairway wood, which I can find used, that is adjustable. More specifically, I'm looking for lie angle adjustability. I'm relatively tall (6'4"), and all of my irons are 3* upright, but my driver and 3 wood are both standard. It's not as much of an issue for the driver, but the fairway wood results in only a small contact area with the ground because the heel is in the air.I was looking at last year's STR-8 fits, but are there any other options that you can think of? Thanks in advance!