hero12

Is there a point in development that this changes? I've never done much practicing, range before a round if my driver or irons aren't cooperating and 3 or 4 min on practice green to get a feel for speed. is there a point when solid full swing mechanics become good enough that more time should be spent else where?

Why does a person with a bigger foot need a bigger shoe? If you want to play a standard set and hit an 8 iron when you should be hitting a pw because thats the correct length (I think thats what you're trying to get at) then go ahead. I have a half inch added to mine because when I play standard clubs I hit it thin. You will tell me I should just club down two clubs because it would be the same length as an extended club? Guess what, I would still top it because the lie changed too, plus why would I need the extra 25 yds? Why is standard length the standard length, answer that and you'll answer your own question.

I was 6'2" when I was fit for my clubs 6 years ago, they are 1/4" long with no lie change. I'm 6'4" now and still hit them fine, but if I wear taller shoes my iron play falls apart. I'll get properly fitted for a new set when I can let go of my current one.

If people are thinking this hard over a 2-3 foot putt then I can't imagine how many swing thoughts are running through their head on the tee. On putts that short I'm usually only concerned about speed and break if it has a ton of break, otherwise all I think about is making the ball in the hole, but maybe I'm just naive.

First video I think your setup is a little too upright. The second video is closer, but you slouch a little bit in the last videos. I've never been that good at analyzing swings, but thats what I noticed with your setup.

I bought my previous 3w from the site. It had the idiot mark on the top as advertised, but I got a year old club for 25% of new.

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but I feel like you hit your irons really far for an 11; 185 is a pretty big 7 iron. My assumption is that you could improve your accuracy from 185+ by taking an extra club and swinging easier.

Practice with the clubs you play with. I hear the heads of golf clubs are made out of this special material, metal I think it is called, that holds up quite well against golf balls. You'll find a new set of clubs that you know will improve your game before you wear them out. pro tip I received once: don't hit rocks

You're a 5 handicap and asking about hands in front of the ball at impact? curious

My best this year is the same as my best last year, but I've worked on simplifying my swing. I am more consistent this year, dropping my average score at my home course by ~2.5 strokes.

If you grip the bat properly with the second knuckles lines up, then you only "need" to change the position of your left thumb to under your right hand. (could be wrong cause i've always interlocked). I played baseball all through high school and golfed the whole time with no problems because the swings are so different. Lifting your front foot a little might not be a problem because you can key off that to start your downswing. When you put your foot back down, that can start your weight transfer and also your downswing. In baseball you set your front foot down, then drive your hands through the ball. Golf is the same except your weight follows your front foot.

I am assuming you don't know half the terms everybody is using. Since the slice is the most common problem for beginners I'd recommend doing a search here, on google, and on youtube for "how to fix a slice." You'll find a lot of good advice here, videos from instructors, and a lot of advice from people who are as good as you.

I struggled with the same issue a few years ago, and this grip change took care of it for me. I rotated my bottom hand more on top of the club. It felt weird at first, but it helped.

When you say divot on the ice you're referring to a slap shot, and good players look at the puck for most slap shots. For the more accurate shots players always look at their target. We have a few greens that are two tiered, so I use this method on them when I'm on the bottom tier.

Haven't hit the driver, but I bought the i20 3-wood with the tfc shaft. It launches lower than any other 3w I've had, which is why I bought it. I hit both shafts, and the project-x didn't feel right, and I don't feel the money for another shaft is worth it.

If I hit "fat" bunker shots, its because theres too much movement in my lower body. The quieter I keep my lower body, the easier it is for me to take the amount of sand I want to take.

Marshall, Luverne, and Redwood are my favorites. St. James is pretty fun too.

Seems everybody else disagrees, but if I could have a club I'd add a wedge not a driver... Adding one club would definitely make the game more fun for most amateurs, but everybody in this thread takes it overboard assuming we would be allowed 20+ clubs.

A friend of mine just got fit for the first time. He wasn't a bad player before, but with the new clubs, hes dropped about 10 off his handicap. If you are playing 8 year old wal-mart clubs that aren't fit for you, I'd believe huge improvements are possible.

It is one of the tricks to the game, shaking off a bad hole. It is a mental problem and everybody deals with it their own way. There is no secret to it, you have to figure it out for yourself. The way I do it is to set a goal for every hole rather than an entire round. I want to birdie every hole, that way it doesn't matter if I tripled the last hole, my goal is to birdie the current one.

Should've left this thread where it was....

Ridiculously raked or dragged sand traps. I was playing league the other day and one of my opponents hit into a bunker. When we got there, it was sitting in the middle of the trap right where the drag had gone through. There was a line of stand about an inch wide running the length of the bunker that was about 3 inches higher than the rest of the sand. His ball came to rest on the top of this line of sand making it a near impossible shot. I feel he should get to pickup the ball, rake the area, then drop it. I know it is something that is near impossible to govern, but he is a good player and he had no chance of getting up and down. Think of hitting a wedge off a 3 inch tee to a pin 20 yds away, not that easy. This would only apply to grounds keeping issues, so you will still have to play your fried egg.

Nothing bothers me more than hitting bad full iron shots. I can miss every fairway, never get up and down, and 3 putt every hole, but if I hit my full iron shots well, I feel good.

I play with guys from work on occasion that vary in skill but aren't very good. The course has 5 tees, and I usually play second from the back while the rest of the group plays second from the front. The next best golfer would move to the front tee if offered even $1, while the others who actually should move up would not. I'm playing from farther away, so by your logic, I would be slower and have less fun? I promise you my 4-6 over par is much faster and more fun than their 20-30 over par rounds. A few dollars extra for a round of golf isn't a big deal to me, and I only know one person who wouldn't pay extra to play from where they want to play from. Golf isn't a cheap sport to play, so unless you're playing the wal-mart special clubs at the city par 3 course, you won't care about the extra 3$ if you get to play from the tees you want to. If that 3$ is enough to sway you to change your golf experience, then it is financially irresponsible for you to be playing golf at this point in your life. I think the express lane idea is a lot better. I'll be generous and say you have 4.5 hours for 18 holes, I think it is well w/in reason to ask you to leave if you cannot comply with this. The people who say they paid for 18 holes and deserve to play at their own pace also have a chance to read the club's rules before paying for their round. I have never been to a golf course that doesn't have rules posted, including one that says you must keep up with the group in front of you. If you "forgot" to look at the rules and haven't hit the turn yet, you can have a refund when you get kicked off the course. You pay to golf, but if you can't keep up, you shouldn't play.

As far as the financial part of this, it really won't make a big difference if it doesn't effect playability. If you wait another 8 years before you trade them in, you'll get like 1/12 what you originally paid, and you'll lose like 5$ a club for the damaged ones. As far as the sentimental value, well that is up to you if it is worth it. If the imperfections are what's annoying you the most, then you must have a heck of a time when its muddy.