indacup

I wipe my clubs after every shot...except my wedges thru 8 iron...I hold off cleaning those until my upcoming shot....then I decide if I want to clean them or leave the dirt in the grooves depending on what I want the ball to do.

As we assist and analyze players, theres a few common suggestions that are often applied to different types of golfers... Of course, getting fitted would be top of the list.... But outside of that, the one thing, a general rule of thumb for amateurs which seems to improve 90% of them is this: Except for driver and 3 wood, when hitting your next shot, go UP one club. I suggest this for multiple reasons: 1) From 200 yards in, no one should be short of the green. But it happens ALL the time because players overestimate their distances...an ego thing....and that "ego" thing just cost them a stroke. Do that 1/3 of the time and you added 6 strokes to your score. 2) Going "Up" a club instantly invokes a feeling of confidence in the player...causing them to swing smoother....this in turn, promotes cleaner contact and accuracy. 3) Almost all courses/holes penalize you if you are short on your approach shots...very few penalize you for being too long.

Thanks for the link...I see it says twice they have a money back guarantee....I wonder how that works?

I have a pair of Eccos...very well made shoe...unfortunately, after two rounds, I realized I bought a size too big....If anyone wants a size 11, let me know

Yup, that loks like the one I was talking about.....I didn't realize they were that cheap! The way the groundskeeper was talking, I thougt they were much more expensive!

*sigh* If only....I cannot understand why people don;t repair their own divots...when I get to a green, I always repiar mine and any I see left behind....

Our Greenskeeper bought one of them...he got it from his Greeskeeper supply company...makes it alot easier on his back to use that device.

I have 11 pairs of shoes...including Adiddas, FootJoy, Nikes...but the best are Oakleys...I have three pairs of Oakleys....they cannot be beat.

Your description of how to reshaft left out some many key processes (like Shaft prepping, trimming etc. I recommend you review this link below: http://golf.about.com/cs/componentsc...llingshaft.htm Afterwards, if you have any questions, please feel free to holler...either here of feel free to send an email/Pm Good luck!

There really is no industry "standard" for shaft flex. I would recommend you consult a club fitter and get a shaft that mated with the head will be best fitted to your swing.

Before we installed our simulators we tried a few different nets....and the problem with them was you have to keep the net loose to capture the ball...and in doing so, the balls would get tangled up in the net...and we found too much time spent extracting the balls. One day, someone had a large green furniture moving blanket.....these were like 6' x 8'......but unlike normal blankets or tarps, these were padded. We hung one up on hooks, about 2" from the wall and I'll be damned, these things worked awesome! Balls mad a nice, but subtle "thump" against them....and would drop and roll back to the hitter. I believe the cost on these were $24 each.... I KNOW I have pictures of one of these set up if anyone is interested....

It was one of my favorites too....sadly, it is being discontinued this year.

My limitation is located between my ears.

One of the biggest problems in club assembly is off-center/mis aligned shafts caused by either removing too much shaft material when prepping or uneven epoxy application.. This can result in either a weak bond or in some (extreme) cases, alter loft and/or lie up to .5*. I don't see this alot when people are assembling new shafts...but it is more common in re shafting when a shaft has been prepped multiple times...primarily in graphite. Rule of thumb is anytime you dry fit(test) the shaft in the hosel and see excessive amount of play, use shafting beads to maximize bond and center the shaft in the hosel. The proper way to do this is on a piece of paper, pour a small lump of beads on the paper, insert the ferrule to fit. Then apply the epoxy to the shaft tip, and roll the tip over te lump of beads...which wil gather a thin coat of beads. Then insert the shaft SLOWLY in the hosel rotating the shaft as you insert it in. Clean excess epoxy/bead mixture and allow to dry (or as mentioned earlier), apply a thin coat of Silicone spray over the hosel to prevent epoxy hardening on the club.

Sorry, I am working on my old computer (laptop is in the shop) and it's a pain to type on this antique....LOL Lamp Oil - is a very low cost substitute for grip solvent. Grip solvent is about $6 a quart + shipping from Golfsmith. You can buy a gallon of lamp oil from Wal-Mart for about $3.00. Lamp oil also doesn't evaporate as fast allowing more time to work the grips on. Two of the most common errors a beginning club maker does seems to be using too much epoxy (which gets messy) and prepping too much material off the shaft (creating poor/weak bond). Granulated sugar which you probably have in the kitchen, is a great substitute for shafting beads that costs about $5 for 4 oz + shipping. If too much epoxy is used in the assembly, as the club cures (drys) the epoxy will expand and leak out...and harden on the ferrule and hosel of the head. Which you will have to cut or sand off which can cause damage to the finished product. Epoxy will not adhere to Silicone. So after you assemble the club, spray some WD-40 on a lint free cloth/paper towel, and apply/wipe a thin layer of silicone over the hosle and ferrule. Then any epoxy that leaks out can be removed with your fingrnail.

I agree with the others....go with a wedge (54-56*)....or, you can have the 60* bent to 54-56* and buy a better driver or hybrid for under $100

To get into hobbiest level club MAKING (does not include disassembly), there's many inexpensive ways to do so...many cheap alternatives to some costly materials. Assuming you have basic garage/shop equipment like vise, sandpaper, hacksaw.. You will then need... Epoxy (strongly recommend club fitting epoxy) Lamp oil WD40 Double sided tape granulated sugar Then you are pretty much good to go!

I assume you were at Golf Galaxy? Those Maltby heads are great! Since ya already hit them, I won't dwell on their GOOD looks.....but the perimeter weighting is ideal for a mid to upper handicapper......very stable heads....and you'd be extremely hard pressed to find even USED forged irons at at the same price of those...new! Enjoy!

both .600"....I recommend Golfworks as a great place to get either factory replacements or "upgraded aftermarket" at very good prices. If you plan on installing these yourself...and it sounds like this may be your first time.... Use LOTSA solvent...and make absolutely sure the flat side of the grip is aligned properly. I know a lot of people try to "eyeball it" You need to be exact when installing these. Feel free to email/PM me if ya want some tips on how to do it easily yourself.

We are supposed to get them sometime next month....I love Srixon golf ball line....Hell, I love the company.

Same here!

Wow, that looks nice! We have Garmins in our vehicles and the quality is tremendous.....I'd love to have one in the cart!

The way I got started into listening to music while golfing started years ago at the driving range. I got tired of people talking to me when I was trying to work on my game...but I have trouble telling them I wanted to be left alone. So I started wearing earbuds and the MP3 player...people see the ear buds and leave me alone....works very nice!

Seems like I play my better golf when alone and listening to music. I find it enough diversion to calm me. Jack Nicklaus said that he (during play) always had a tune in his head and would occasionally hum during play to relax him.

If you are referring to actual "pureing" as in the trademarked process via HotStixx program, then it can get costly because they are committed to a minimum price range to charge. However, if you are referring to having a clubfitter spine/FLO the shafts, then the charges are usually embedded in the total charge to reshaft the clubs. Obviously the clubs are definitely more consistent when done...but since the players swing are never consistent, that value to having it done lies with the player. Good luck with your decision!