Different club head, different shaft flex??

Hello all, need to get clarification on why some of my really low scoring friends have different flex on different club heads?  It confuse me, due to this type of information was not provided during fitting?  Any positive and informal information would be greatly appreciated.  ie. 8i-PW are reg flex and 3i-4i are stiff, etc...

That's kinda backwards for irons.  Most wedge shafts are stiffer and heavier than regular iron shafts, since you don't need any help getting the ball in the air, and you're going for accuracy over distance.

I typically go for X-stiff in wood shafts (driver, 3-wood, maybe hybrid depending on the shaft) and stiff in my irons.  Lots of reasons for this:  steel generally feels stiffer than graphite, so I use X-stiff in my wood (graphite) shafts; I can control the spin better with X-stiff (at least in the shafts I was testing), which is more of an issue (for me) with woods than irons.

With so many shafts available, it's really just a matter of trying different shafts and seeing what you like.  One manufacturer's R might feel really close to another's S, particularly with composite shafts.  I would say with steel iron shafts, however, the more usual practice would be to go stiffer in the short clubs.

I have been using softer shafts in my SW and LW for many,many years..Both Jack Nicklaus and Lee Trevino set  their wedges this way.  Whatever shaft I am using,I tip SW and LW the same as 8 iron. Up thru GW,I follow trim instructions of shaft manufactrer.  This way gives me better feeling around greens.

Confused by your post (not being an ass, just genuinely confused).  You play "softer" shafts in your SW, LW, and 8-iron, but your GW, 9-iron and 3-7 are standard tip-trim specs.  And you make them "softer" by tipping them?

He tip-trims the shafts installed into the SW and LW to the same specs for that of the 8 iron.  Ex:  For the shafts I use in my irons, the 8 iron is tip trimmed 4.5" for R flex, 9 iron is trimmed 5.0", and the wedges are trimmed 5.5".  So if I were use his method (which I do plan on doing), I would trim the shafts for the wedges at 4.5", instead of 5.5" (the shafts installed in the wedges would be the same ones used in the rest of the iron set).  It's quite common among custom builders, and a lot of pros, and is said to create a softer tip (due to the heavier head weight of the wedge), stiffer butt, and a higher kick point for mid/low launch, high spin results.  Many builders do this as an alternative to more expensive Spinner and other wedge-specific shafts.

Try it,you will like it!  I have been doing this since the 1976 TPC. During a weather delay,Lee Trevino and I were talking about clubs in an ABC trailer ,  He was playing and was a spotter for ABC that week,  Back then no one carried LW, so he just did that to his SW.  He grew up playing a Wilson Helen Hicks model SW ,so whenever he got a new SW he had them put in 8 iron shaft and trim to SW length. Twp other tips I got from Lee that day were: 1) have your long irons bent 1* upright and short irons bent 1* flat from however they are normally bent( This way your bad swings will not go so far off-line.Long irons go right(push) and short irons go left(pull) That !* will help you hit it straighter.  2)  We were both using Wilson Arnold Palmer type putters then-Lee-8802. Me-8813. He had the sole ground on back edge. If you set that type of putter on a hard surface, it will toe in.  By grinding on back flange it will straight,  I tried it and it worked. (Stopped hitting putts left)

My GW has an 8i shaft in it also. I need to do my 54 and 58 eventually. Just dont like the DG wedge shaft.

Before one starts to fall into the trap of over-analyzing the specifications of their golf equipment they should read the following article: Conventional Club Design

That's not an article, it's an advertisement.  What are the distance gaps like for the irons?  Similar to what we get with our current irons?

Hmmm talk about spamming your own website on a golf forum......