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Suggestions for setting up my golf bag in 2013.....

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 

Hello All - I'm looking for suggestions on how I should set up my golf bag for 2013.  Up until now I have been playing with a driver, strong 3W (13.5 degrees), 3H (18 degrees), 4H (21 degrees), 5-AW irons (Taylormade Burner Plus), SW, LW, and putter.

 

I just purchased my new irons for 2013 (Taylormade Tour Preferred CB 4-AW).  I am thinking that I am going to use the 4 iron in this set.  My two hybrids that I have been using are Taylormade Burner Superlaunch.  What I've noticed though is that there is not a big distance gap at all between the 3H and 4H.  Because of this I am thinking that I can take the 4H out and put the 4 iron from the new iron set in.

 

I'm considering purchasing a new hybrid, a 2H that has 16 degrees of loft.  So I am thinking that I will set up like this but would like feedback from the forum and suggestions.  I am thinking that with playing 4 wedges that this is too many and that I would be better served adding a club that will help me better gap the distances from 180 yards and up?

 

My idea is to set up like this:

 

Driver   I hit this now 230 yards and up, it's also winter, in warmer temps I average closer to 250 or more.....(Taylormade Burner Superfast 2.0, stiff, although I am considering purchasing a new driver as I'd like to get a driver with a shorter shaft as I believe that this will help my driving be more consistent

 

3W      I hit this now from the tee 200 and up and from the deck 190 and up usually in cold (Taylormade Burner Superfast 2.0 TP, 13.5 degrees of loft, stiff flex)

 

3H      I hit this now 175 plus and in warmer temps maybe further (Taylormade Burner Superlaunch, 18 degree loft, reg flex....considering getting a Taylormade R11 TP 2H rescue stiff with 16.5 degree loft though).

 

4 - AW  These are new irons and distances are not known yet.  Previously I was hitting my old irons 5i - 175, 6i - 160, 7i - 150, 8i - 140, 9i - 130, PW - 120 and lower.  These are winter distances though.  AW from old irons was going 90 - 115 yards or so.

 

SW    It's 55 degree loft

 

LW    It's 60 degree loft

 

Putter

 

 

 

 

 

So it really comes down to possibly taking a wedge out which I would like to do.  I would like to take the SW out because on longer bunker shots I usually end up using the AW and on short bunker shots I will use the LW.  By taking out the SW it does not leave a hole in my distances either as I usually hit my SW in winter temps 80 yards.  I can hit it longer but then I risk too much so I try not to get too much out of it.  My LW I try never to use for over 40 yards out.  I can hit it further but I risk it then.  I can probably hit it a max of 70 but when I swing fully with the LW it sometimes just goes higher and higher rather than further and further.  I would need to keep the LW in the bag because I use it a lot around the greens.  I considered taking the AW out but I am hestitant to do that because with longer bunker shots I prefer to use that versus the SW because I know that I will not risk not getting the ball to the hole from the bunker.

 

If I take a wedge out then I can keep two hybrids in my bag while still adding in the 4 iron.  If I get that 2H then I am guessing that I would hit it further than the 3H.  It does not happen all the time but once in a while there will be a bit of a gap between what I can hit my 3W and 3H.  Adding the 2H will help and depending on how far I hit my 4i I can then determine if it's necessary to have another hybrid or keep that 4th wedge in the bag. 

 

I've never had a 5W before and am not against getting one, it's just that I believe that the 2H would get more use because it would be easier than a 5W to hit out of the rough.  Also since I do not use any of my hybrids on tee shots (other than a long par 3 if needed), I am still covered with using my driver and 3W off the tee for par 4's and par 5's. 

 

The AW from the new iron set is 51 degrees, SW is 55 degrees, LW is 60.  What does everyone think?  Thanks for your help and feedback! 

post #2 of 23
Thread Starter 

Just purchased a new driver and hybrid....driver is Taylormade R11s TP 10.5 and the hybrid is Taylormade R11 TP 2H 16.5

post #3 of 23

If you have a 3H at 18* loft and you buy a 2H at 16.5*, that is only 1.5* difference. Can anyone really tell the difference of 1.5*, I know I can't. I would forget getting a 2H and just use the 3H that you already have.

post #4 of 23

Personally i've found I like using a 2H more than the 3W... much much better from the rough. 

But in all actually, you're best off playing the clubs that best suit the course. really short course.. no three wood probably, hybrids plus the four iron and all the wedges. Longer course, take out the SW and use the 3w. It should depend on the course. 

post #5 of 23

Driver, 13.5* 3W, 16.5* 2H and 18* 3H. I think you'd have to have quite a bit of clubhead speed to get the most out of that set up. Off the deck, lots of players would probably get the most distance (consistently) from the 3H.

 

Have you measured your yardage gaps between these 4 clubs?

post #6 of 23

I'd have to agree with Shirley here. It might be a case of the hybrids and fairway woods might be the things to go first. So the only time you're really going to use a 3 wood is on a par 5 when you're trying to get close and get a cheap birdie, and if you're driver distance is 250 yards the 3 wood might be a bit of a waste. 

 

I'm a big fan of 2 drivers. one designed for your max distance(mess about with club length to see what you can handle) and the other driver a short shaft high loft(14/15 degrees) fairway finder.

 

Chipper

 

So it'd be driver/driver, 3 hybrid, 4-lob, chipper.( no sand wedge)

 

My 2 bobs

post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the feedback.  I agree that the setup will depend on the course.  I mostly play the same course about 75% of the time (the course at the country club I belong to).  I'm hoping that the new driver will give me more consistency to hit more fairways.  The way that it is now I have to keep the 3W because I end up using it off the deck and for tee shots on 3 or 4 holes (shorter par 4's where I HAVE to be in the fairway). 

 

As for the 3H vs. 2H point.......I do not think that I am hitting the 3H as far as I should be hitting it based on the loft that it has.  I believe that this is because it is a regular shaft and not stiff.  That's why I purchased the 2H because it has a stiff shaft whereas the 3H and 4H do not.  My new irons just arrived last night and while I am not certain on the distances, I am thinking that I will be able to hit them further because they are overall better irons that are better suited for my swing versus my old irons.  With that being said if I can hit my 4i 180+ then the 2H would ideally be 195+ (if not more than that), leaving my 3W to be 215ish and then my driver. 

 

I also have lots of wedge options that I can choose.  What would you all suggest for that?  Lets say I go with 3 wedge set up first....If I have 3 wedges in the bag then I am thinking that it would be PW (45 loft), AW (51 or I have a different AW with 52 loft), and then LW (again I can go with either 58 or 60 degree lofts).

 

With the 4 wedge set up I am thinking that it should be PW, AW (51 degree), SW (55 degree), and then LW (60 degree). 

post #8 of 23

Just on shaft flex. Are you sure that stiff flex is helping you?

post #9 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by logman View Post

I'd have to agree with Shirley here. It might be a case of the hybrids and fairway woods might be the things to go first. So the only time you're really going to use a 3 wood is on a par 5 when you're trying to get close and get a cheap birdie, and if you're driver distance is 250 yards the 3 wood might be a bit of a waste. 

 

I'm a big fan of 2 drivers. one designed for your max distance(mess about with club length to see what you can handle) and the other driver a short shaft high loft(14/15 degrees) fairway finder.

 

Chipper

 

So it'd be driver/driver, 3 hybrid, 4-lob, chipper.( no sand wedge)

 

My 2 bobs

 

Isn't that second driver (the one with a shorter shaft and 14-15° of loft) a 3 wood? Sounds like one to me...

post #10 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanhilton85 View Post

 

Isn't that second driver (the one with a shorter shaft and 14-15° of loft) a 3 wood? Sounds like one to me...

No, 3 woods are designed as fairway woods, low face heights 300 cc's or similar. I'm saying 15 degrees, 460 cc, titanium, high face height, short shaft......Thriver type. 

 

They're huge confidence builders as well. And from what BJ Westner says he might not lose an awful lot of distance either. The other great thing about the 2 driver setup is that it allows you to build a driver that is dedicated to distance as well as having a fairway finder. So you can have a bomber in the bag for when you think you can sneak another 20 meters on a par 5 or reach a short par 4 and still have a "safety driver" for the majority of tee shots.

post #11 of 23
Most people use a 3w as a safety driver... it shouldn't be much shorter than the driver, unless you have bad 3w. Strong lofted three wood is a safety driver and can be used off the deck
post #12 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by onephenom View Post

Most people use a 3w as a safety driver... it shouldn't be much shorter than the driver, unless you have bad 3w. Strong lofted three wood is a safety driver and can be used off the deck

Yes, most people use a 3 wood as a safety driver.......because they're so wrapped up in tradition and thinking they have to have a spread of distances to they're clubs. So how often do you use a 3 wood? probably twice per round, and only if you're going for the green on a par 5. Whereas, if you go for 2 drivers you have the security and confidence hitting a 460cc head on the end of a 43 inch stick.......that for me equals fairways.....AND, the long bomber in the bag still gives you the option of really going for it on holes that suit your shape or run into a headwind or when you just wanna fang it. 

post #13 of 23
The reason a 3w is a tradition is because its very effective. How is a second driver bring more security and confidence? It be used as a "safety" driver just as often as a 3w but can't be used off the deck if needed. Off the tee they serve the same purpose, so why limit yourself?
post #14 of 23

If clubface bulge does its job, then a  15* 460cc driver head won't hit any more fairways than a 15* 3W. The larger head will have a greater MOI which should retain more ball speed on off centre hits, but it won't be any straighter than the smaller head.

post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by logman View Post

No, 3 woods are designed as fairway woods, low face heights 300 cc's or similar. I'm saying 15 degrees, 460 cc, titanium, high face height, short shaft......Thriver type. 

 

They're huge confidence builders as well. And from what BJ Westner says he might not lose an awful lot of distance either. The other great thing about the 2 driver setup is that it allows you to build a driver that is dedicated to distance as well as having a fairway finder. So you can have a bomber in the bag for when you think you can sneak another 20 meters on a par 5 or reach a short par 4 and still have a "safety driver" for the majority of tee shots.

It just seems odd to me to carry two clubs that you can only use off the tee... I can hit my 3w just fine off the tee but I still have the ability to use it from the fairway should I want. Also, as you said you probably won't lose a ton of distance either with the "thriver" so why not just use that full time... 250 in the middle is better than 280 ob...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by logman View Post

Yes, most people use a 3 wood as a safety driver.......because they're so wrapped up in tradition and thinking they have to have a spread of distances to they're clubs. So how often do you use a 3 wood? probably twice per round, and only if you're going for the green on a par 5. Whereas, if you go for 2 drivers you have the security and confidence hitting a 460cc head on the end of a 43 inch stick.......that for me equals fairways.....AND, the long bomber in the bag still gives you the option of really going for it on holes that suit your shape or run into a headwind or when you just wanna fang it. 

But here's the catch... you say why carry a 3 wood because you only use it maybe twice a round... wouldn't that be the same for the long bomber driver. And the thing is, if you are only using the "long bomber" on holes that you really want to go at, say a par 5 you want to reach in 2, you might not have the club you need for the second shot because you took the 3 wood out of the bag.

post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanhilton85 View Post

It just seems odd to me to carry two clubs that you can only use off the tee... I can hit my 3w just fine off the tee but I still have the ability to use it from the fairway should I want. Also, as you said you probably won't lose a ton of distance either with the "thriver" so why not just use that full time... 250 in the middle is better than 280 ob...

 

 

But here's the catch... you say why carry a 3 wood because you only use it maybe twice a round... wouldn't that be the same for the long bomber driver. And the thing is, if you are only using the "long bomber" on holes that you really want to go at, say a par 5 you want to reach in 2, you might not have the club you need for the second shot because you took the 3 wood out of the bag.

The 2 driver thing gives you the ability to have a more complete coverage of tee shots. So you've got the long bomber, and that's an attacking weapon, a stick to get a birdie, a stick to get you into iron range on par fives and a stick to give you a chip instead of a 9 iron on a short par 4.

 

The thriver is a defensive weapon it gives you position, it gives you confidence(short shaft, high loft, high moi). Hitting the thriver off the tee is WAY easier than hitting a fairway wood off the tee. The moi and deep face give you high launch low spin compared to a F/W. 460cc's is just easier to hit......how many guys here are still hitting 300 or 350 cc driver heads?

 

I reckon the tee shot is the most important shot on the hole ......for me, and having a club that you use maybe 10,11,or 12 times a round and it's a compromise club, ie. it's probably not the longest stick you can hit or the most accurate, it's a compromise or requirements

post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by logman View Post

The 2 driver thing gives you the ability to have a more complete coverage of tee shots. So you've got the long bomber, and that's an attacking weapon, a stick to get a birdie, a stick to get you into iron range on par fives and a stick to give you a chip instead of a 9 iron on a short par 4.

 

The thriver is a defensive weapon it gives you position, it gives you confidence(short shaft, high loft, high moi). Hitting the thriver off the tee is WAY easier than hitting a fairway wood off the tee. The moi and deep face give you high launch low spin compared to a F/W. 460cc's is just easier to hit......how many guys here are still hitting 300 or 350 cc driver heads?

 

I reckon the tee shot is the most important shot on the hole ......for me, and having a club that you use maybe 10,11,or 12 times a round and it's a compromise club, ie. it's probably not the longest stick you can hit or the most accurate, it's a compromise or requirements

I don't see why you'd ever use the longer driver. If you have a club in your bag you can't hit, it's a waste of space. Maybe some people would hit a thriver farther, that's great if it does a better job than a traditional driver. But if so, why have the long driver at all? Seems like if you know you'll probably spray it, you'll have a negative mindset pulling it out. Good way to start a hole...

 

I think many people, including myself, use a 3 wood instead of a thriver because of the shot off the deck as well as the fact we can actually hit lower lofts farther due to high swing speeds or decent striking. People who use a thriver need it because they can't hit the traditional driver. It takes its place, but doesn't complement it.

 

Think about the relationship between ball speed and spin. Take something that gives you the highest ball speed like a titanium driver, launched at, say, 14+ degrees, with the extra spin of a 3 wood, and you'll be in the clouds unless you're generating a low swing speed like a senior. Take the same launch conditions with over 100mph or so of swing speed, that can launch a 9 degree driver nicely, and you're screwed. But if you're hitting the club off the deck, the extra loft and spin are ideal. The extra ball speed the thriver gives you over the 3w actually raises your trajectory even more off the tee. But the 3w off the tee is pretty manageable.

 

Then there are the people who play in wind and on links courses, where you need a long shot from the fairway often and a high drive gets you killed by the wind. Also the fact that driver heads are 100$ more expensive than other clubs just because, and that this setup gives you 2 useless clubs after the tee shot. Bad golfers are the ones that have the most shots after the tee shot. The 3 wood is cheaper, more versatile, and there are a lot more high quality options out there to choose from.

post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuciusWooding View Post

 

Then there are the people who play in wind and on links courses, where you need a long shot from the fairway often and a high drive gets you killed by the wind. Also the fact that driver heads are 100$ more expensive than other clubs just because, and that this setup gives you 2 useless clubs after the tee shot. Bad golfers are the ones that have the most shots after the tee shot. The 3 wood is cheaper, more versatile, and there are a lot more high quality options out there to choose from.

 

All good points I reckon. I play in the wind often and my long driver(9 degree) is great to choke right down and hit into the wind....off the tee. Also the high lofted driver is great when you're hitting with the wind. 

 

Your point about bad golfers having the most shots after the tee shot is right, I guess but is that because they hit they're tee shot into the scrub then have to recover.

For me, most high to mid handicappers would benefit with they're bags stacked with clubs at either end of the range. So stacks of wedges, chippers, irons up to 6 then a general purpose hybrid type club to replace 5iron through to 4 wood, then 2 drivers. But that's just me

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