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Haven’t played for several years but was on a really tough course Sunday. After switching to my 3 wood, my drives were straight down the middle. Butmy irons suffered as I was chunking just about every one even with choking down on the grip.

 

I have Mizuno MX20 TZOID irons regular flex with the 5 iron at a standard 38” from grip cap to  leading edge. I know I’ve lost some height over the year - I used to be 5’10” 30 years ago but struggle to make 5’7” now.

What’s the best way for a static test on what length irons I’d be best suited for?

I measured the shaft tip just above the short ferrule and got .369” so I assume their the standard .370” tips.

If I pull the grips and trim a certain amount off the butt, I assume that would stiffen the shaft.

If I wanted to start with 1/2” shorter shafts, I’m wondering if I should pull for example the 4 iron shaft, put it in the 5 iron head, and cut an inch off for a net length of 37 1/2”?

Any help would be appreciated.

 


  On 7/5/2021 at 11:13 PM, tpcollins said:

What’s the best way for a static test on what length irons I’d be best suited for?

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Go to Ping's website and check out their online fitter. It will have you measure your height, and how far your arms hang from the ground. This will allow them to chose if you need to add length or shorten the clubs. You can then look up the lengths of the irons they offer and see what the lengths should be. Also, club lie angle matters in this as well. 

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  On 7/5/2021 at 11:57 PM, saevel25 said:

Go to Ping's website and check out their online fitter. It will have you measure your height, and how far your arms hang from the ground. This will allow them to chose if you need to add length or shorten the clubs. You can then look up the lengths of the irons they offer and see what the lengths should be. Also, club lie angle matters in this as well. 

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I’m aware of Ping’s static testing - never understood if the height and wrist to floor measurement was based on bare foot or wearing shoes. Barefoot I’m on the edge of using 1/2” shorter shafts than standard. 

Now for my original question - butt trim 1/2” making the staffs stiffer or move the 4 iron shaft into the 5 iron head, etc., etc., and butt trim 1” for a net 1/2”? 

 


All fitting charts are based off of wearing shoes. Probably counting for something like 3/4 inch.

As far as your questions about the clubs, first the Mizuno's should be taper .355 not .370 unless they have been modified by someone.

With cutting down the shafts a half inch, they would get stiffer if you were measuring them on a frequency meter, however that's not the best way to look at it. When you trim from the butt end you are removing the stiffest portion of the shaft so the overall stiffness of the shaft is actually softer b/c less of the stiffest section remains.

The best way to figure this out is just choking down on the shaft at different intervals and seeing the results from it. The club will play the same as far as swing weight and flex regardless of whether you choke down 1/2 inch for example or cut the shaft down that same amount and grip normally. The only differences will be that the static weight of the club will remain the same when choking down vs. cutting (but only by a very small amount), and the grip diameter will be smaller when choking down because of the standard grip taper. Even with these two small differences, this is still a far better/simpler/reversible testing method for shaft length. Once you figure out how much to grip down, you can then butt cut them to the new length. If you want to soft step the shafts (4 iron shaft into 5 head), you can do that also though most golfers will never notice a big enough change in flight to make it worth the effort.

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  On 7/6/2021 at 1:27 PM, Adam C said:

All fitting charts are based off of wearing shoes. Probably counting for something like 3/4 inch.

As far as your questions about the clubs, first the Mizuno's should be taper .355 not .370 unless they have been modified by someone.

With cutting down the shafts a half inch, they would get stiffer if you were measuring them on a frequency meter, however that's not the best way to look at it. When you trim from the butt end you are removing the stiffest portion of the shaft so the overall stiffness of the shaft is actually softer b/c less of the stiffest section remains.

The best way to figure this out is just choking down on the shaft at different intervals and seeing the results from it. The club will play the same as far as swing weight and flex regardless of whether you choke down 1/2 inch for example or cut the shaft down that same amount and grip normally. The only differences will be that the static weight of the club will remain the same when choking down vs. cutting (but only by a very small amount), and the grip diameter will be smaller when choking down because of the standard grip taper. Even with these two small differences, this is still a far better/simpler/reversible testing method for shaft length. Once you figure out how much to grip down, you can then butt cut them to the new length. If you want to soft step the shafts (4 iron shaft into 5 head), you can do that also though most golfers will never notice a big enough change in flight to make it worth the effort.

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Thanks Adam, after some thought, I’m going to trim the butt end 1/2" on just my 7 iron first. I’ve been choking down that much or more lately so I see how that works out.

I just ordered some lead powder, corks, and grip tape from Golfworks.

A 1/2” shorter shaft should drop it down 3 swing weights so I’ll need at least 6 grams of lead powder plus another 1.4 grams when I add a layer of 10” long build up tape to get back to D2 that I had before pulling the grip.

If this works out I’ll do th 8 iron next.


  On 7/6/2021 at 9:17 PM, tpcollins said:

Thanks Adam, after some thought, I’m going to trim the butt end 1/2" on just my 7 iron first. I’ve been choking down that much or more lately so I see how that works out.

I just ordered some lead powder, corks, and grip tape from Golfworks.

A 1/2” shorter shaft should drop it down 3 swing weights so I’ll need at least 6 grams of lead powder plus another 1.4 grams when I add a layer of 10” long build up tape to get back to D2 that I had before pulling the grip.

If this works out I’ll do th 8 iron next.

Expand  

Usually need to factor a slightly higher amount of powder to hit your weights as the powder sits so much higher in the shaft than a tip weight or lead tape.

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Note: This thread is 1432 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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