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Posted

My 3Iron is 19*, so I dropped it for the 5wood, unless I know i am playing a course where I will need my 3 iron for a par 3 or 2nd on a par 5. Love the feel of a pure 3-iron, but the 5wood is so amazingly consistent.  My Lob wedge is a lifesaver, I have lobbed over ponds, trees, high traps etc etc. I have even stuck one 3 feet from the pin from the deep woods. The lob wedge is an invaluable club in the arsenal of someone who knows how to use it. not to mention having a go to 75 yard club is pretty nice too.

Bag:

DriverG25 or  XCG5 11.5* 3++ fairway wood

3w:  XCG6 15*

*5w: XCG6 18* (out if I bag my 3-iron)

Irons: Rocketbladez tour  3-pw(47*) (I sometimes bag the 3 iron but usually the 5w) 

Wedges:   SM-4  52*, 56*, 60* 

Putter:  Versa #7 (white on black)


Posted

I carry both.

3 iron is a score saver when struggling with the woods.

I have a 46 deg Pitching Wedge 52 Gapwedge and 58 sandwedge

this works for me.

Dirver: Mizuno JPX 825 9,5 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 65 g.
3 wood: Mizuno JPX 825 14 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 75 g.
Hybrid: Mizuno JPX 825 18 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 85 g. 
Irons: Mizuno MP 59 3 / PW KBS Tour stiff shaft ( Golf Pride Niion )
Wedges: Taylormade ATV Wedges 52 and 58 ( Golf Pride Niion )
putter: Taylormade ghost series 770 35 inch ( Super Stroke slim 3.0 )
Balls: Taylormade TP 5


Posted

It depends on your playing style. I am a longer hitter, so I prefer to play with 4 wedges since I really can't justify a 3i and I am rarely in a position to need one (I use my 4i maybe once a round).

If you're longer in distance, 4 wedges may provide you with more flexibility, options and comfort in your round. I personally have a PW, GW, SW and LW (43°, 49°, 54° and 58°).


Posted

I have a very similar setup except i have a hybrid rather than a 5 wood. Just skip the 5 iron! Thats what i do and it works great

Sam Gray

Whats in my :ping: Ping Hoofer Carry Bag?
Driver: :ping: Ping G25 9.5*    Shaft: Graphite Design AD DI 7x
3 Wood: :callaway: Callaway X HOT Pro 3 Deep 14.5       Shaft: Diamana Blue Board 83x
Hybrid: :adams:
 Adams A12 prototype 20*  Shaft: Aldila Rip NV blue prototype 80x
3 iron--Pitching Wedge: :mizuno: MP-64 irons 1* flat      Shafts: KBS Tour Stiff 
Wedges: :cleveland: 588 Forged 54 degree 12 degree bounce and 61 degree 9 degrees bounce   
Putter: :ping: Ping Karsten 1959 Anser 2


Posted

To maximize your wedges, take a rangefinder and chart the distances of your wedges. When you do this, use the ball you play on the course - it likely goes farther than range balls.

Try quarter, half and 3/4 swing with each wedge. See where the distance gaps fall between wedges for each type of swing.

Another thing to consider: The standard shaft length change up and down your set of numbered irons is 1/2". For wedges, this often drops to 1/4" or occasionally 1/8". Clubfitters use rough measurements that + 1/2" shaft and + 4* loft = 10 more yards of distance (its greater for stronger swingers, less for softer swingers). So, if your wedges from same model are only 1/4" apart in shaft length, you may get less than 10 yds. distance difference. As long as you know this, it's OK and you can adjust.

The 1/4" shaft length difference may be why several TST posters have 6* loft differences between their wedges - to balance out the yardage.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted

More options around the green always works better than more options you'll face once in while.

Its a lot easier to take some off your 5w or hybrid, as well as it doesn't need to be as precise as short approach shots.  Because 5w and 2H have a much more relieved heel, its much easier to open the face to cut a high fade to mimic your 3 iron distance.  I leave out the 3 iron and play a 18* hybrid.  And if you have shots into the wind, hitting a low 4 iron or low hybrid isn't too hard to practice for.  And ofcourse, if you play a course that have certain holes which really favors the 3 iron for your style of play, you can always stick the 3i back in and take out anything from within the rest of your long/mid irons or even the 3wood to fit that specific course.

Acer XF Ti 10.5 / GDI G60
Mizuno JPX 825 Hybrids 16* and 19* / Steel Fiber HLS75
Mizuno MP H4 (4-PW) / Steel Fiber i95 cw
Titleist Vokey 50,54,58
Odyssey ProType Tour #7


Posted
Originally Posted by Stuffs

More options around the green always works better than more options you'll face once in while.

Its a lot easier to take some off your 5w or hybrid, as well as it doesn't need to be as precise as short approach shots.  Because 5w and 2H have a much more relieved heel, its much easier to open the face to cut a high fade to mimic your 3 iron distance.  I leave out the 3 iron and play a 18* hybrid.  And if you have shots into the wind, hitting a low 4 iron or low hybrid isn't too hard to practice for.  And ofcourse, if you play a course that have certain holes which really favors the 3 iron for your style of play, you can always stick the 3i back in and take out anything from within the rest of your long/mid irons or even the 3wood to fit that specific course.


I understand what you are saying here but in reality, since your ball is traveling a much longer distance, a few degrees of "mishit/misdirection" will result in a much worse shot than a shorter shot will. I think you may have that backwards.

I am also a 4 wedge player though and really only recall once this whole season (nearly 30 rounds played already) where I needed a 3i and was forced to play a strong/risky 4i.


Posted
Originally Posted by Spyder

I understand what you are saying here but in reality, since your ball is traveling a much longer distance, a few degrees of "mishit/misdirection" will result in a much worse shot than a shorter shot will. I think you may have that backwards.

I am also a 4 wedge player though and really only recall once this whole season (nearly 30 rounds played already) where I needed a 3i and was forced to play a strong/risky 4i.

That is true, but what I was referring to as options are chips and approaches, not so much on full wedge shots.  More options in terms of trajectory, simplifying having to hit 3/4 and 1/2 swings to just one "take something off it swing",  as well as chip to roll ratios.

Lets just say that if I take a 3 iron and hit it right 20yds into a bunker, I'd be bummed but not as bummed as leaving a 75yd approach short or long just 7 yds because that is when precision matters (atleast to me) the most to really get it close for a one putt.

So in the case of leaving a 3 iron in or not.  Mishitting a 3 iron 20yds to the right or mishitting a 5 wood 25-30yds, either way, I'm looking at the same scenario of getting up and down.  So those two options are almost the same should I mishit it.  But being forced to chip knowing if I dont' take just 1-2 yard off the carry, I'll be rolling past the hole, ..that's tough.  Thats what gives me the yips more than a long iron approach.

Acer XF Ti 10.5 / GDI G60
Mizuno JPX 825 Hybrids 16* and 19* / Steel Fiber HLS75
Mizuno MP H4 (4-PW) / Steel Fiber i95 cw
Titleist Vokey 50,54,58
Odyssey ProType Tour #7


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