Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6364 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I am toying with the idea of getting a custom shaft put on my driver and would like to know when it is a good idea to move away from the stock shaft.

My swing is pretty consistent and doesn't look like it is going to drastically change any time in the future.

So, should I wait until my handicap is in the single digits? How do I go about getting exactly what I want? What is the average cost?

In my bag:

Driver: Cleveland Hibore XL 9.5*
Hybrids: Cleveland HiBore 19*
Nike Slingshot 23*Irons: Titleist 775 CBWedges: Titleist Vokey 54.10 Callaway X-Tour 58.12


Posted
Go to demo days and pay attention to the clubs you like and take note of the shafts and find the one you like.

Remember" the heads are the hubcaps and shafts are the engines"

Taylormade Driver HT
Taylormade 3 HT

Mcgregor 7w
Vulcan irons 5-P
Solus 53 61

Vokey 56

Scotty Caneron Flange/ Ping Cushin

Srixon ZStar

71 gold tees

bring cash


Posted
I am toying with the idea of getting a custom shaft put on my driver and would like to know when it is a good idea to move away from the stock shaft.

The custom shaft would probably help you getting down to single handicap (you know more fairways, easier shots to the greens, etc etc). So, you don't need to wait since you've already got pretty consistent swing.

The shaft selection will be based on the evaluation of the launch monitor results by a fitting pro. You could also tell him the ball flight pattern that you prefer (I wanted mid/low penetrating trajectory). What my pro did was he laid out a few shafts he thought would suit my swing based from the launch monitor result and told me their characteristics (ball flight pattern, feel, dispersion, etc). Then he told me that he already had one in mind, but still let me choose anyway. Of course in the end I went what he recommended, UST Proforce V2. The cost would be the shaft plus the installation fee though sometimes they'd waive the installation fee. What you should be concerned is the shaft cost. Premium and popular shafts like Mitsubishi Diamana and Matrix Ozik could cost as little as $300 to $700 or more. But it doesn't mean that you have to get them. There are also other cheaper but quality shafts such as Aldila, Graphic Design, Graffaloy, UST, etc. You'd be surprised the shaft that fits you could be the cheapest. Hope that helps.
What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"

Posted
it's been time! it's really up to you on the characteristics of your ball flight that you want to change. if you're smashing drives and splitting fairways as it is..you may not need one. if you're looking for a higher or lower ball flight, more control...then i'd say go and get fitted.

what's the common thing about all of your drives that you don't like right now?
too high - go with a stiffer tip and higher kickpoint in the shaft
too low vice versa
More control - stiffer shaft, but you lose distance

I lost a good 15 yards on avg when I went from a regular flex to a stiff flex.
But who cares..the control's there right?
DJ Yoshi
Official DJ: Rutgers Football
Boost Mobile Tour
In My Bag
HiBoreXL 9.5 White Board D63 Stiff Exotics CB2 5 Wood, Exotics CB3 3 Wood MP-60 5.5 Flighted Shafts 54 & Cleveland CG-10 60 Newport 2

Posted
You have to ask yourself what benifit is a new shaft going to give you? More distance, more control or a lighter wallet? What about your current driver are you not pleased with? These are more important factors to consider rather then what handicap you are.

I have always used stock shafts right up until a couple of weeks ago and the only reason I changed it because I bought my driver used and the shaft just didn't complement my swing.

It's always time to get stuff that fits you and works for you but you have to be able to justify the cost vs the benifit. You could spend $200 to get re-shafted but will it improve your drives and if so are the improvements worth the $200?

Posted
its a really hard process IMO

if you find a fitter with a launch monitor you'll probably be limited to what is availble. There are so many shafts out there but so few places where you can actually hit them. Would a high end accra or matrix shaft fit me, obviously there's a model out there that could do the trick but could I find a demo club with a 500 dollar shaft on it... not really.

right now, in terms of what is popular in the market you'll find plenty of:

UST Proforce V2, high launch models as well

Adilla NV and Proto By You

Graphite Design YS6+

Graffaloy Pro Launch Blue and Red

those are pretty much the slam dunks shafts that you'll see everywhere...

Daniel Duarte
905R UST Proforce V2 76g 44" S
904F 15, Graphite Design YS6+
MD Hybrid, 19 Degree, UST V2 Hybrid S
Pro M Gunmetal 5-PW, Nippon 1150GH Pro SVokey Oil Can 52 - RAWVokey Spin Milled Oil Can 56, 60 - RAWTEI3 Newport II - Torch Copper- Prov1x


Posted
Lots of great advice in this thread. Thanks. I tried posting the question a few days ago in the other shaft thread but it did not show up for some reason.


I don't need more distance on my driver. I would like a little lower ball flight though. At times it seems to balloon up at the end.

I may look into getting a new shaft but I think I could groove my swing a little bit more before needing to tweak my game with a custom shaft.

In my bag:

Driver: Cleveland Hibore XL 9.5*
Hybrids: Cleveland HiBore 19*
Nike Slingshot 23*Irons: Titleist 775 CBWedges: Titleist Vokey 54.10 Callaway X-Tour 58.12


Posted
UST Proforce V2, high launch models as well

you can also look into

the quad series by Graphite Design. they're great...but expensive as sh**! I reshafted both my driver and my 3 wood's in the shop right now. Diamana Blue Board in the 3 Diamana White Board in the Driver. I did the driver 1st and was completely impressed. I lost another 5 - 10 yards on avg, but I can still knock it 250 and straight! the YS6 has a softer tip that might be a little too soft for a driver which is why I don't fully agree. the proto by you is awesome too. that's the shaft i'm using in tiger woods on my 360. haha.
DJ Yoshi
Official DJ: Rutgers Football
Boost Mobile Tour
In My Bag
HiBoreXL 9.5 White Board D63 Stiff Exotics CB2 5 Wood, Exotics CB3 3 Wood MP-60 5.5 Flighted Shafts 54 & Cleveland CG-10 60 Newport 2

Posted
the quad is an ill shaft but is 350 plus...

Daniel Duarte
905R UST Proforce V2 76g 44" S
904F 15, Graphite Design YS6+
MD Hybrid, 19 Degree, UST V2 Hybrid S
Pro M Gunmetal 5-PW, Nippon 1150GH Pro SVokey Oil Can 52 - RAWVokey Spin Milled Oil Can 56, 60 - RAWTEI3 Newport II - Torch Copper- Prov1x


Posted
Here's a mid handicapper's take on a reshaft. A good shaft is $100 installed. Swingweighted and spined (if you're into that) by someone who knows what they are doing might cost more. If you resale a decently new brand name driver you should get $100 to $150. Take the shaft money and sell the driver, kick in $50 or $100 more for a newer, better fit driver. If you don't, you might resale your driver anyway and the new exotic shaft will add virtually nothing to the resale value. This is if you are not "married" to your current driver head.

I really really dig my ProForce V2. I never had a driver shaft with so much feedback. And my first bounce after landing is wicked, some 20-25 yards. Ad about 15 - 20 more in roll.

Posted

I had a TM460 that I was ballooning. I got it used for next to nothing from someone on eBay (another story in itself). It felt good, but after a while I noticed I was consistently ballooning the ball and getting no roll. So I went to a local pro and got fitted.

Two things happened:
I found out that my swing speed wasn't as fast as I thought, so I needed a regular flex instead of firm, and

I came away with a few shaft options and picked the least expensive ( ***********

Then, realizing that I needed regular flex shafts helped me understand why I didn't like the 3W and 5W that came with my set. They felt like baseball bats. Fortunately, I recently won a closest to the pin prize during a scramble event and received a new driver! I traded that in for two new shafts, and now I love my fairway woods!

Proper shafts make a huge difference, even for a ~20 handicapper like me, and there are cost-effective options for your level of play.

In the words of David Starsky / Ben Stiller, "Do it. Do it; do it."

In my TM r7 Stand bag:
Driver- r11 10.5° Reg shaft

Fairway wood - r11 3 wood
Hybrids- r11 3, 4 & 5
Irons- M1 6-AW, xft 50, xft 54.12 , xft 60.08°
Still have / love my r7 CGB Max 6-PW, xft 50, xft 54.12, xft 60.08° which I keep in Myrtle Beach, Tommy Armour 855 Putter


Posted
Here's a mid handicapper's take on a reshaft. A good shaft is $100 installed. Swingweighted and spined (if you're into that) by someone who knows what they are doing might cost more. If you resale a decently new brand name driver you should get $100 to $150. Take the shaft money and sell the driver, kick in $50 or $100 more for a newer, better fit driver. If you don't, you might resale your driver anyway and the new exotic shaft will add virtually nothing to the resale value. This is if you are not "married" to your current driver head.

For the past 3yrs. I've been hitting a Callaway 454ti with a standard Aldila NV 65g stiff shaft. I just upgraded to a Hyper X 8.5 with a UST Proforce V2 77g X-stiff and it's a whole new game. Turns out my swing speed (112-120) was too much for the standard Aldila. The ball flight with the V2 is so penetrating and I'm getting more roll. It's added at least 20yds to my drives. I would highly recommend having your swing checked out. It's the only way to go.

Posted
Honestly do not get anything reshafted. if you have to reshaft, just buy a new driver. I made this mistake before twice before, and now i have learned my lesson. getting a new custom shaft isn't bad, but with the new technology of getting a new driver is cheaper in the long run because that club u reshaft will only last at most 6 month's. I bought a great big bertha with rugar titanium 8 degree brand new back in the days. i reshafted because it was the greatest driver at the time and i was just amazing with it. reshafted and still loved it. then the biggest great big bertha came out. then the 460cc drivers came out, and now im stuck with a driver that is worth nothing. i can probably sell it on ebay for $10, and the cost of getting it reshafted cost me $100.00
you probably should switch your driver every 1-3 years, because this club get the most abuse. this club you hit the hardest and over time the graphite deteriorates. make it it flex more and more so if it was a stiff it will go to regular and then to senior flex.

i started with a callaway big bertha, tommy armour tommy gun ti, great big bertha, biggest great big bertha, titleist, to a Cleveland Launcher 8.5 tour.

im about to purchase a cleveland hibore xl tour 8.5
so dont reshaft, just buy a year old driver that is 1/2 price.

Driver: :tmade: 2017 M1 9.5° / 3-wood: :tmade: AeroBurner 13.5° / Irons: :mizuno:  MP-69 (3-PW) / Wedges: :titleist: SM6 Vokey 50°, 54°, 58° / Putter: :titleist: Scotty Cameron Newport with SuperStroke 3.0 slim, 50g counterweight / Balls: :bridgestone:  Tour B330-S

NLC Cup 2017 Champion / Grand Master's Cup 2017 Champion / TDR Cup 2017 Champion / DTG Celebration Cup 2017 Champion

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I would try to do the fitting outside where you can see ballflight if thats possible. Im not saying luanch monitors lie, but they sometimes do.

As for shafts,you can get a lt of different shafts in different price ranges. For example, some shafts from Matrix can go up to $1,000. But you can also get a quality shaft like the V2 for about $70. Just gotta find whats right for you and check the price tag.

Best o' luck!

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"


Posted
Get fitted for a custom shaft. Take suggestions from the people and try them. Do not buy a new shaft without buying them.

Joey R

In the Bag:

905T w/Aldila NV 75x 904F w/Dynamic Gold x100 MP-32 w/Project X 6.5 Vokey 52.08 BeCu 56 MP-R 60 Studio Stainless Newport 2 ProV1, ProV1x, or NXT Tour


Note: This thread is 6364 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 1: 2025.12.26 Worked on LH position on grip, trying to keep fingers closer to perpendicular to the club. Feels awkward but change is meant to.
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.