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Posted
Hi Everyone:

I've gotten back into golf after 6 years off and I'm playing with 10+ year old Callaway X-14's and I would like to but a new set of sticks. I have been shooting in the mid to low 90's and getting better each week.

Here are choices I have considered:

Adams Idea a3 OS
Cobra S9
Cleveland Hibore
Wilson Ci7


What do you recommend?

Posted
My friend plays the same clubs in graphite and shoots par to 3 over at the most every time we play. They are nice set of clubs. If you are going to buy another set, I like Mizuno mp series or the mx series irons.

Check out ebay for prices and descriptions

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
The cobra s9's are REALLY nice. I have hit these and they are alright for game improvement but with game improvement comes the thick topline i can't stand.

However, based on reviews and everything i would try the wilson staffs Ci7's.

In my Extreme Sport Stand Bag
Driver: 4DX D-Spec Driver 10.5* Stiff UST SR3
3W: F-60 15* Regular Fujikura E150 Fit-On
Hybrids: 4DX Ironwoods 20* 23* Regular UST SR3
Irons: 4DX CB 5-PW Stiff True Temper ST-90Wedges: Vokey 50* 56*Putter: SabertoothBall: DT Roll


Posted
I suggest considering the Taylormade R7's.

They are great clubs. They hit like game improvements...but are just a few notches down from feeling like a players club.

Go to a local golfsmith or edwin watts or any golf store and get fit. They'll let you hit all brands of clubs and they'll let the technology tell you what you hit best. Thats really the only way to go.

TMX Carry Bag
Tour Burner 9.5*
Burner 3W 15*
Burner Rescue Hybrid 19*
r7 TP 4i-SW Dynamic Gold S300s 60* CG-14 Circa 62 #2 & Studio Stainless Newport 2 Pro V1x


Posted
If you feel like you have to get newer irons, the R7s are nice and would stay in your bag a bit. The S9's get great reviews, but I'm not sure if more forgiving than the X14s is what you want if you are looking to get better. That's just my opinion though. Other than comsmetic advantages, I really don't think you'll find a much better set than the X14s. The whole X series was MOI when MOI wasn't cool. If your shafts and lies fit you, maybe hold out 6 months or a year. Then you'll be able to fit your irons more for where you are going than for where you are now .

Posted

Id go with AP1s if it were me. If you are in the market for newer clubs, Id suggest looking on Ebay.
I recently bought a set (3-PW) of Titleist DCI 981s off of Ebay for $120. Really the only thing wrong with them is that the heads have some very slight nicks (nothing that effects the performance of the club though) and the grips are mismatched (6 of them have new Golf Pride grips and 1 of them have the original Titleist grip).
Other than that, they are perfect.
As long as you buy from a reputable seller, Ebay is a great place to get a deal.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted

I'd say go with Ci7's. They are not hard on your wallet and very good clubs. Are you plannin on selling the X-14's? If so I may be interested.

« Keith »


Posted
Hi Everyone:

Each of these sets have merit in your bag.

The Hibores would be good if your practice will truly be limited. People complain about the durability of the finish and having to deal with head covers. I found these very easy to hit, even when I had the $hank$ The Adams Idea OS is a solid set for someone who is a high or mid handicapper and doesn't feel comfortable with the long irons. I have hit my friend's set and they are very solid for most golfers, IMO. If you are committed to practice on a regular basis, then you cannot go wrong with the Ci7 or the S9. The S9 has gotten great reviews. I demoed the S9 and they feel great. They are similar to a forged iron (at least in my hands when compared to the Ben Hogan Apex Edge that I had).

STR8 Dymo 10.5
Dymo 3W
Mid Rescue 3
MP-33 4-PW
Eidolon 52* GW LW, SW Titleist Bullseye Putter


Posted
Might as well look into the Callaway X20s if you like the X14s and are looking for the modern update.

I threw my clubs into the lake so it's time to start over...

Driver: Great Big Bertha II 10°, Callaway System 60 Firm
Woods: Tour 2400 Plus 3
Hybrid: 19.0° 503 H, Adila NV 85 SIrons: X20 4-GWPutter: Studio Select Newport 2


Posted
Mizuno MX-25 is a nice iron in the game improvement category. I would recommend that you don't overlook trying out Mizuno.

Driver: MP-600 9.5 w/ Fujikura E360 Stiff Shaft
4 Wood: F-60 16.5 w/ Exsar FS3 Stiff Shaft
Irons:MP-57 3-PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300 Shafts
Wedges: MP-R Black-Ni 52, 56, & 60
Putter: Studio Select Newport 2Ball: ProV1/ProV1xGrips: Winn Xi7


Posted
Mzuno, probably the MX series such as the 23, 25, 900 or 950

ISLAND PAR

In my Mizuno Bag:
TBD, MacGregor 4W(16*), 3H(20*),4H(23*), 5H(26*) Mizuno MX-900 6-PWAdams Watson 2010 Wedges (GW, SW, LW),Ping Wolverine Putter "But I thought you meant these golfers from our club when you said you needed SANDBAGGERS to help with the flood...


Note: This thread is 6372 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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