Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6314 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I hit fine at the range and can't get any video of me on the course.

I suffer from hitting the ball fat and sometimes thin but fat shots come more often.

Fat = hitting ground before the ball???
Thin = hitting top half of the ball???

Even when I take practice swings it seems that my divot starts before where the imaginary ball is. I have a mini-cast in my swing.

Right now its not even a matter of hitting a slice or hook. Need to hit the ball flush.

« Keith »


Posted
I had a problem similar to yours not too long ago, and cured it by focusing an inch ahead of the ball (i.e., looking in front of the ball as the aiming point for the lowest point of my swing) instead of looking at the back of the ball. It seems goofy and was a little uncomfortable at first, but it seems to work very well -- sort of like looking at the hole instead of the ball on 3 foot putts.

In my C-130 Cart Bag:

Driver: Titleist D2 10.5° Aldila R.I.P. 60
Woods Exotics CB4 15° Aldila R.I.P. 70
Hybrids Exotics CB4 17°, 22° Aldila R.I.P. 80 

Irons 4-PW MP-57 Project X 6.0, MP-29 PW

Wedges  Eidolon 52°, 60° Rifle Spinner 6.5

Putter Bettinardi BB12

Ball One Black

Rangefinder Nikon Laser 500"Golf...


Posted
Fats and thins can be from the same flaw, which is bottoming out prior to the ball. The most common cause is swaying, or allowing the weight to get to the outside of the trailing foot. The right knee is key. Maintain the same degree of flex as you start with and keep it kicked in toward the target a tad. If you find you cannot do that, you are either altering your swing radius or trying to coil too deeply, both of which will throw you off balance.

Posted
Fats and thins can be from the same flaw, which is bottoming out prior to the ball. The most common cause is swaying, or allowing the weight to get to the outside of the trailing foot. The right knee is key. Maintain the same degree of flex as you start with and keep it kicked in toward the target a tad. If you find you cannot do that, you are either altering your swing radius or trying to coil too deeply, both of which will throw you off balance.

Pretty much what I was going to say. The two shots stem from the same flaw in the swing. Leaving all of your weight on your right side as you start the downswing.

I don't really agree with the whole right knee being kicked in though. Don't see that as necessary.

Posted
I don't really agree with the whole right knee being kicked in though. Don't see that as necessary.

It is the "secret" of automatic sequencing. It is using the dynamics of the swing to your advantage. It is the "aim" of the return.


Posted
I think I will try the looking ahead of the ball technique. I heard of people talking about it so why not give it a try.

« Keith »


Posted
Keep your head planted over the ball and then on downswing..hips start clearing shifting weight to left side...still with head over ball..voila...pretty shot. Boy I'll tell you...it just sounds so so easy..doesn't it!

Tools of my game:
Burner 09' Driver 10.5 Reg flex
5-pw G10's/ plus Taylormade R7 4 iron
Burner 08' 4 Hybrid
A70S 3 Hybrid Burner 09' 3 wood "Zing" SW 56 degree Fastback Laser range finder / plus Skycaddie SG5...also a great ball retriever!!


Posted
Fat -moving upper body towards the ball on downswing.
Thin-moving upper body away on backswing,

aeroburner tp 10.5 stiff
superfast tp 2.0 3 wood stiff
Halo 25 and taylormade tp 19 degree hybrids
miura cb 202 and wedge
tp 52* wedge, tp 56* taylormade spider mallet putter


Posted
Find an instructor whose philosophy is the importance of consistent solid ball contact and ball compression. A lost art.

The key to consistency is to use the body instead of the hands, and simplify the body movement. Make the pivot more circular. Eliminate the lateral shift and use a single swing plane. Keep arms close to and synchronized with the body. Maintain clubhead lag. Release the clubhead with the body instead of the hands.

Posted
Fat -moving upper body towards the ball on downswing.

I agree. Also releasing the hinge prematurely will make a fat shot, also.

STR8 Dymo 10.5
Dymo 3W
Mid Rescue 3
MP-33 4-PW
Eidolon 52* GW LW, SW Titleist Bullseye Putter


Note: This thread is 6314 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 9: 2026.01.11 Hit some balls at the range, concentrating on weight distribution at address, got some on film.
    • Day 468 - 2026-01-11 Loooooong day. Did some work in the patio door (as a mirror) when I got home.
    • I caught a video on this driver; the face tech seems crazy. Looking at the heat map for ball speed, hitting it basically anywhere on the face only loses a few percent ball speed. The surprising and counter intuitive part to me was that for flat faced clubs, ball speed loss is directly proportional to distance loss. For clubs with bulge and roll this is apparently not true. The surprising part of that story being that the max distance potential looks to be a tiny pee sized area for this driver, and I feel in general for drivers. The counter intuitive part being (the myth?) that blade irons have a pee sized sweet spot and missing that tiny spot causes dramatic losses. And that modern drivers, maybe 2017 on, have massive sweet spots and are ultra forgiving. Where in reality, if this heat map data is valid and reliable, it might be a bit of the opposite. This insane tech driver appears to have a pea sized "sweet spot" while Mizuno Pro 241 irons are 28% more forgiving compared to the average of all clubs measured. Not compared to other players irons, compared to all clubs from all categories, players to SGI! The Pro 241 being essentially just a solid chunk of metal with no "tech" at all. Which for me devolves into a whole mess of what is forgiveness really? And in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?  
    • Wordle 1,667 3/6 🟨🟨⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜⬜🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,667 3/6 ⬜⬜🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨🟩⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.