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Posted
Any have any ideas why I would hit a nice controlled draw with my irons (Ping G10) and I slice my driver (Mizuno MP600)? Could it be the difference in shafts?
My irons have regular flex steel and my driver is regular flex graphite (Fujikura Fit On 360). Could it be that my more upright swing works with irons but not with driver? Should I try and swing flatter or more in to out? Should I just set up with the face more closed at setup? The face on the MP600 does appear slightly open at setup. I tried hitting several draws intentionally and that resulted in straight down the middle drives....but obviously thats not the best way to correct.

Any advice would be great.

Posted
You need to work on squaring the face with your woods. I had a friend that I teach doing the same thing a week ago and I was not sure how to fix that problem other than tell him to try and draw the ball with his release. Fixed him right up. Not sure what to do for you. Squaring the woods is harder for some people.

Whats in the bag?
Driver = Wishon Golf 949mc 9.75*/.5* Closed Face Angle
Fairway Wood = Wishon Golf 915 F/H 16* Square Face Angle
Wood Shafts = Wishon Golf Pro Flight EXP 85g Stiff Flex
Hybrids = Wishon Golf 331H 21* & 24*Hybrid Shafts = Wishon Golf GI335 Tour Weight 92g Stiff FlexIrons = Wishon...


Posted
The G10s have a lot of offset to them, helping to draw the ball, whereas the Mizuno driver has little offset (sets up pretty neutral to open). That's most likely why you're drawing the irons and not the driver.

Posted
The G10s have a lot of offset to them, helping to draw the ball, whereas the Mizuno driver has little offset (sets up pretty neutral to open). That's most likely why you're drawing the irons and not the driver.

I think your on to something here....

So what do I do now? Do I try and use a lot more wrist action through impact? Try and turn the hips faster/harder? Play the ball more forward? Stay behind the ball more?

Posted
Are you sure you're drawing and not pulling your irons? Are you swinging over-the-top?

Kevin

-------
In the Bag
Driver: G15 9.0*3 & 5 Wood: BurnerHybrid: Pro Gold 20*; 23*Irons: MP-58 (5-PW)Wedges: Vokey Spin Milled 52*8; 56*14Putter: Newport 2.0 33"Balls: NXT


Posted
That Fit on 360 even in a regular is very stout shaft, about 250CPM, with a stiff tip. Demo a shaft with a soft tip around 235CPM and you may be able to get the face squarer at impact.

Posted
That Fit on 360 even in a regular is very stout shaft, about 250CPM, with a stiff tip. Demo a shaft with a soft tip around 235CPM and you may be able to get the face squarer at impact.

Unfortunately I already bought this one. I guess it's worth a shot though. I can always resell it on Ebay. Any shaft recommendations over the 360?


Posted
Are you sure you're drawing and not pulling your irons? Are you swinging over-the-top?

If you are trying to put extra into the driver and as a result you are getting quick at the top or to much arms, a slice can result. If iron effort is less dramatic then you may be maintaining inside club path and club release may be improved.

1W Cleveland LauncherComp 10.5, 3W Touredge Exotics 15 deg.,FY Wilson 19.5 degree
4 and 5H, 6I-GW Callaway Razr, SW, LW Cleveland Cg-14, Putter Taylor Made Suzuka, Ball, Srixon XV Yellow


Posted
I tend to get this more from ball placement and setup than anything.

I'll have the ball too far back for a driver, or too far forward for an iron. It's something to get used to with this new set of irons I'm using though. With my old ones I always had to play them farther forward and now with a proper setup/stance/swing I can nail them straight most of the time.

In my bag:
Driver: HiBore XLS (9.5*, stiff, gold shaft)
Irons: FP II 4-GW
Wedges: mp R series 56/13 588DSG 60*
Putter: Unitized TiempoBag: ADIDAS Velocity


Posted
I think your on to something here....

1. Start simple. Try closing the face of the driver a bit on setup and see if that helps. Then move through some of those steps in a progression.

Unfortunately I already bought this one. I guess it's worth a shot though. I can always resell it on Ebay. Any shaft recommendations over the 360?

2. You don't need a whole new driver, just a new shaft *maybe*. Demo your driver in as many shafts as you can and then have your driver re-shafted in the shaft that works best for you.

Drivers:
FT-i Draw 9* W/Grafalloy Red
Sumo2 5900 9.5* W/Grafalloy Red

Irons: A3OS 3-PW Graphite/Steel regularWedges: A3OS GW, SW, LWPutter: Rossa Monza SpiderLittle round white thing:

Note: This thread is 6240 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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