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I was reading one of the questions in the Q&A; section of "Ask the Top 100" section, page 64, GOLF magazine Feb 2006. To quote directly:

"When you're playing for real..set 70% of your weight on your left leg, and keep it there through impact"

I was practicing this in the house and it seems like a great way for a reverse pivot..no?

and my 2nd question:

What is the weight ratio when playing your irons?

I've always played them with equal 50% on each foot at address..then it going to about 75% right, 25% left (backswing) and then shifting directions to 85% left, 15% right on the downswing through impact..if this makes sense.

First, I'm wondering why it says "playing for real ", is that opposed to playing for fake, I dont know. Anyway, I think keeping 70% of your weight on your left foot(for right-handers) will help you hit shots more solid, if your having trouble doing so already. However I would only suggest it as a drill(or maybe when you're playing for fake, haha.) to insure a downward blow. If you keep 70% of your weight on your left foot throughout the swing, you are not making a proper weight shift, and robbing youself of power.
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Driver - Titleist 905R 9.5*/Aldila NV 75sFairway Wood - Titleist 904f 14.5*Dynamic Gold S300Hybrid - Cleveland Halo 2Iron(19*)Irons - Titleist 735cm(stainless)/Dynamic Gold S300 (Bent +0.5 degrees upright, +1.0 degrees strong) Wedges - Callaway...

First, I'm wondering why it says "playing for

Yes, that what I said too..playing for real?..and it would seem like it would be a drill..not for play..bizarre stuff..I couldn't even hit that way if I tried..


Hi Maverick.
-keeping 70% of your weight on the front foot,as a general guideline,is way off!
- weight bias depends on the club you have in hand and the shot you want to make.
-play 50-50 (for better balance)whenever you can,and let the ball position determine the amount of bite you will put on it.
-a 60-40 split is as high as you ever need, and favours all approach shots from 140 yds in.

- a slightly open stance with the ball fractionally back,will give more bite than an exagerated forward bias.
-the Driver is a special case,and the type of Driver has a lot to say about where in your stance you place the ball and how high you need to tee it.
- bias for the driver is 50-50 for backweighted persimmon and "low center of gravity" types.
-bias is 45-55 for the modern high face models which also favour a higher tee and more forward ball position.Please,don't stand too wide for the driver!
-ball position is extremely critical in making solid iron contact.
-when in doubt, place the ball one dia. back in your stance.
-play your fairway woods from the middle of your stance!(again 50-50)
Balance is the most important aspect in every golf swing and a 50-50 set up gives the best odds for that.
-make incremental changes in ball position and stance. The combinations are myriad and the effects of some combinations spectacular. good luck
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What is the weight ratio when playing your irons?

I start with a bit more weight on my back foot. It's kinda like "pre-loading" for a good pivot around my right leg (knee specifically), rather than having to move as much to get there.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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That tip sounds like a tip from David Toms on his specialty "one-hop-and-stop" wedge shots. Dave says keep about 70% of your weight on your left side to promote a downward blow on the ball. This is for pitches, not full swings and it is actually pretty helpful. Nice shot to have.

For short to mid-iron shots my weight is distributed basically 50-50 at address, with longer irons it may be more like 45-55 or 40-60 favoring my right.

Jeff Gladchun

In my bag:
Driver: TaylorMade R7 Quad, 9.5°, Aldila NV
3 Wood: Titleist 904F, 15°, YS-6+ StiffIrons: Titleist 695CB 3-PWWedges: Titleist Vokey 252.08, SM56.10 SM60.08Putter: Odyssey White Steel #5 Center-ShaftBall: TaylorMade TP Black / Titleist ProV1xHome Course: Oakland Hills...


"...When you're playing for real..set 70% of your weight on your left leg, and keep it there through impact"...it seems like a great way for a reverse pivot...

if you're a lefty

seriously though, the weight balance ( IMHO ) is similar to the ball position. 70% sounds a bit extreme, but I do set up "favoring" left side with shorter irons (full weight transfer isn't really needed and it allows you to hit the ball on a descending path) and move more neutral with mid irons, ending up with favoring the right side with 3 - 4 irons. Woods and driver are definite 70% on the right foot at setup. Promotes the "sweeping" path of the clubhead. Of course you can't over-do either way, otherwise you'll have your reverse pivot and/or you'll fall down after a swing
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Note: This thread is 6913 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • I speak for myself. If I inventory my swing thoughts, swing tempo, optimum muscle tension and rehearse a swing before I take my address, then I pull the trigger reasonably quickly with usually acceptable results. Like a proper program download before deploying it. If I don't bother to by forgetting or just not caring, I am inclined to look for my cues while hovering over the ball after taking the address, while tension builds up and then I fire with a half ass program that is still buffering. I guess that's no better than rolling a dice. In other words, a good pre-shot routine does wonders. I am not advising folks to take 13 practice swings while the flowers wilt waiting for something to happen, but one or maybe two are reasonable and good for you. I am certain hitting half ass shitty shots and making double bogey takes longer than making a par.  My desire this year is to just that as I have not developed a habit taking a practice swing and as a result have tendency to freeze over the ball after address, that is counter productive for both time and result. I think that is what @saevel25 is talking about in the OP.      
    • Wordle 1,339 2/6 ⬜🟨🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I think there's a difference between taking time over the ball and taking time to play a shot, at least IMO. One thing I've noticed in a few guys I play with who take a long time over the ball to pull the trigger, is that their backswing is really fast and I think it makes it harder to have a smooth rhythmic down swing. It's almost like they take so long to swing that when they do they speed to catch up. Doesn't lead to good golf IMO.
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    • As long as it's from a reputable seller it should be just fine. Just make sure the picture of the weight looks the right shaped weight for that specific driver head. You can even weigh it yourself when you get it if you want to be extra sure. Personally I don't consider $15 for something that can greatly change your impact and delivery characteristics to be "not cheap" but that's just my opinion. Especially since you know it's bringing it closer to what you were fit into and you're already saving a bunch of money by going the used/prior model year route too. 
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