Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6244 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

i have noticed that alot more company's are starting to make 13* 3 woods, or 2 woods as they should be called. i am looking at alot of pros bags, and they seem to be using them. Other than the fact that they go further, what is the advantage of these? Im looking at the 909f2, and im wondering should i get a 13.5* or a 15.5*. My only fear is that i wont be able to hit the 13.5 off the deck. So any comments on this particular model would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Guys!


Posted
^how far are the par 5s and long par 4s that you play. As you can see I went with the 15.5 because its straighter and more consistent and I dont play extremely long par 5s or 4s.

In My Hank Haney IJGA Bag
Driver: FT Tour 9.5 w/ Aldila Voodoo Stiff
3 Wood: i15 15.5 w/ avixcore red stiff
Hybrids: Rescue 09 19, 22 w/ fujikara fit on stiff
Irons: 4 & 5 MP-52, 6-PW MP-58 w/ KBS Tour Stiff Wedges: MP T-10 52*, 58* w/ KBS Tour StiifPutter: Fastback 1 34 inBall: : Pro...


Posted
Unless your pretty good with your woods you shouldnt really. Most amatuers stuggle with really low lofted clubs off the deck. So unless you already are confident with your fairway woods take the extra loft with a normal 3 wood.

I carried a 13* three wood for a while when I couldnt hit my driver well. But I mostly used it off the tee. When I bought my CGB max I gave it up.

Clubs I havent thrown in a lake yet

Driver: R7 CGB max 9.5*
Woods: R5 3, and 5 woods
Hybrids: Rescue Burner 22*, 25*Irons: CG Red 6 - PWWedges: CG12 52*, 56*, 60*Putter: 1 of 100 handmade pebble beach http://scottycameronblog.com/2007/09...pebble-beach/#Vegas golf sucks!!


Posted
I used to carry a stong 3 (13*), but I found it only helpful off the tee. It's not that I couldn't hit it off the ground, it's just that I couldn't consistently hit it as well as a normal 15* 3 wood. I have even considered dumping my 3 wood in favor of a 4 wood. As they make 3 woods larger they become harder to hit off turf. I almost never need my 3 wood for anything other than off tee on short and/or tight par 4's. On par 5's I always figure if I need a 3 wood to reach, then I would be better off laying up anyway.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
I used to carry a stong 3 (13*), but I found it only helpful off the tee. It's not that I couldn't hit it off the ground, it's just that I couldn't consistently hit it as well as a normal 15* 3 wood. I have even considered dumping my 3 wood in favor of a 4 wood. As they make 3 woods larger they become harder to hit off turf. I almost never need my 3 wood for anything other than off tee on short and/or tight par 4's. On par 5's I always figure if I need a 3 wood to reach, then I would be better off laying up anyway.

You kinda just perfectly described my fairway wood game. Every once in a while Ill get up the nerve to hit it off the deck, then when I douche it, I get mad at myself for even keeping it in my bag. Im gonna buy a 2 hybrid and dump both of my woods.

Clubs I havent thrown in a lake yet

Driver: R7 CGB max 9.5*
Woods: R5 3, and 5 woods
Hybrids: Rescue Burner 22*, 25*Irons: CG Red 6 - PWWedges: CG12 52*, 56*, 60*Putter: 1 of 100 handmade pebble beach http://scottycameronblog.com/2007/09...pebble-beach/#Vegas golf sucks!!


Posted
I don't see any benefit of a 13 degree 3 wood. Unless you are less than scratch, you will not be hitting this off the deck. Thus, you will be hitting something 13 degrees off the tee. If you want something 13 degrees, get a 13 degree driver (larger club face) If you are looking for the extra accuracy of a shorter 3 wood shaft, just put a shorter shaft in the 13 degree driver.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
so a 15* would be more useful. alright, but what would the distance gap be like with a 15.5* 3 wood and a 17* hybrid? am i talking like 20 yards or 10 yards or 30 yards??? i just dont want to make a dumb choice in loft for my hybrid.

Posted
What degree is your current 5 wood?

and 4 iron?

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
What degree is your current 5 wood?

im getting new woods and irons, so my 3 iron will be 21* and my 3 wood is going to be 15.5*


Posted
For my game, I hit a 15 degree 3 wood "flush" with 230 yards carry.
I hit my 22 degree hybrid "flush" 210 yards carry.
For me, I hit the 22 degree hybrid really well (not much difference for me in carry distance between 15 degree club and 22 degree club), but don't get much roll with the hybrid.

It is the roll with the 3 wood (especially in Texas) that makes the big difference.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
My guess would be that the carry distance would be maybe 10 more yards with the 15.5, but the total distance could be as high as 30 yards (including roll)

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
I use a 17 degree 4 wood I can hit it every bit as far as a 3 wood, but I find it much more easy to control. It's easier to hit out of the rough. It's easy to shape right to left or hit straight as an arrow. I can knock it down to 220 or hit it 245. I am a huge believer in the 4 wood. It will likely never leave the bag.

driver: FT-i tlcg 9.5˚ (Matrix Ozik XCONN Stiff)
4 wood: G10 (ProLaunch Red FW stiff)
3 -PW: :Titleist: 695 mb (Rifle flighted 6.0)
wedges:, 52˚, 56˚, 60˚
putter: Studio Select Newport 1.5


Posted
One of my 3 metals is a Srixon 3+wood, which is 12*. If I swing it very well, its a great club. If I'm off with it, I can lose it left or right by 40 yards.

I need to change back to a standard size grip with it. . .I experimented with larger size grips. Currently, the Srixon has an oversized grip and I just can't work it right.

Posted
You need to be awfully good to hit a 13º fairway metal off the deck unless you have a perfect, slightly uphill lie.

In truth, the 15º fairway metal is tough enough. The typical recreational player should start fairway clubs at 16.5 to 17.5º, which was the loft of an old wooden 3-wood and is the loft of a modern #4 metal.

Posted
I carry a 15 degree 3 wood but I am looking for a 13 degree 3 wood for more distance on the par 5s. I hit the driver off the deck with a 10.5 degree so I am confident that I can hit a 13 degree fairway wood, but I am buying a new driver first.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
I would like to have a strong 3. When I first started I didn't have a 3W so when I needed something close I learned to hit a driver off fairway so long as the ball wasn't too high or low and it wasn't down hill. Anything can be used with practice. That being said I don't think I could do it anymore. I don't think I could hit a 13* right off. That would be one to have to learn before using all te time.

Bag: Ogio
Driver: Cleveland HiBore XLS 9.5 gold stiff
3W: Pro Select 15*
Irons: Pro Select 3-PW
Wedge:Adams Tom Watson set GW, SW, LWPutter: Cleveland VP 1balls: E6+ or Srixonshoes: Adidas powerband"Stop looking at my ears and play!"Home course. Antler Creek; tees; Black 77.5/150, Gold...


Posted
My previous 3 wood was a Cleveland Comp that is marked as a 15, but actually measured a 12. I then went to a Wishon 949MC which is marked as a 14 but is actually 15.

Strangely enough, I found the Cleveland to be easy to hit off the fairway, but wasn't happy with how I hit it off the tee. The Wishon is a little tougher to hit off the fairway, but performs beautifully off the tee which is really what I bought it for. I may only have one or two shots where I'd hit 3W from the fairway over a round, but I'll hit it off the tee at least 4 or 5 times so for me it was a good move. Very little distance was lost with the loft increase as well. During my last round two swings with it had me pin high on a 540 yard par 5, it's probably the best club (for me) I've ever hit.

Posted
The biggest reason I don't want a 13* fairway wood is because I don't want the temptation in my bag. I mean, I had an old 10.5* Steelhead III driver that I used to hit off the deck on long par 5's a number of years ago. It was easy to hit and it just took off so I figure a 13* couldn't be that bad.

However, for me, amateur course management trumps even considering a 13*.

Note: This thread is 6244 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 470 - 2026-01-13 Got some work in while some players were using the sim, so I had to stick around. 🙂 Good thing too, since… I hadn't yet practiced today until about 6:45 tonight. 😛 
    • That's not quite the same thing as what some people messaged me today.
    • Day 152 1-12 More reps bowing wrists in downswing. Still pausing at the top. Making sure to get to lead side and getting the ball to go left. Slow progress is better than no progress.  
    • Yea, if I were to make a post arguing against the heat map concept, citing some recent robot testing would be my first point. The heat map concept is what I find interesting, more on that below. The robot testing I have looked at, including the one you linked, do discreet point testing then provide that discrete data in various forms. Which as you said is old as the hills, if you know of any other heat map concept type testing, I would be interested in links to that though! No, and I did say in my first post "if this heat map data is valid and reliable" meaning I have my reservations as well. Heck beyond reservations. I have some fairly strong suspicions there are flaws. But all I have are hunches and guesses, if anyone has data to share, I would be interested to see it.  My background is I quit golfing about 9 years ago and have been toying with the idea of returning. So far that has been limited to a dozen range sessions in late Summer through Fall when the range closed. Then primarily hitting foam balls indoors using a swing speed monitor as feedback. Between the range closing and the snow flying I did buy an R10 and hit a few balls into a backyard net. The heat map concept is a graphical representation of efficiency (smash factor) loss mapped onto the face of the club. As I understand it to make the representation agnostic to swing speed or other golfer specific swing characteristics. It is more a graphical tool not a data tool. The areas are labeled numerically in discrete 1% increments while the raw data is changing at ~0.0017%/mm and these changes are represented as subtle changes in color across those discrete areas. The only data we care about in terms of the heat map is the 1.3 to 1.24 SF loss and where was the strike location on the face - 16mm heal and 5mm low. From the video the SF loss is 4.6% looking up 16mm heal and 5mm low on the heat map it is on the edge of where the map changes from 3% loss to 4%. For that data point in the video, 16mm heal, 5mm low, 71.3 mph swing speed (reference was 71.4 mph), the distance loss was 7.2% or 9 yards, 125 reference distance down to 116. However, distance loss is not part of a heat map discussion. Distance loss will be specific to the golfers swing characteristics not the club. What I was trying to convey was that I do not have enough information to determine good or bad. Are the two systems referencing strike location the same? How accurate are the two systems in measuring even if they are referencing from the same location? What variation might have been introduced by the club delivery on the shot I picked vs the reference set of shots? However, based on the data I do have and making some assumptions and guesses the results seem ok, within reason, a good place to start from and possibly refine. I do not see what is wrong with 70mph 7 iron, although that is one of my other areas of questioning. The title of the video has slow swing speed in all caps, and it seems like the videos I watch define 7i slow, medium, and fast as 70, 80, and 90. The whole question of mid iron swing speed and the implications for a players game and equipment choices is of interest to me as (according to my swing speed meter) over my ~decade break I lost 30mph swing speed on mine.
    • Maxfli, Maltby, Golfworks, all under the Dicks/Golf Galaxy umbrella... it's all a bit confounding. Looking at the pictures, they all look very, very similar in their design. I suspect they're the same club, manufactured in the same factory in China, just with different badging.  The whacky pricing structure has soured me, so I'll just cool my heels a bit. The new Mizuno's will be available to test very soon. I'm in no rush.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.