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Posted
OK, I am down to these iron sets. If anyone has any experience with these, please chime in. I am a +18 handicap, my ss with irons is 75mph. I tend to be a sweeper and take a small divot, but often pick the ball fairly clean. My misses tend to be fat or thin, but more fat. I want a club that I won't outgrow once my ballstriking improves. I use a 3,4 hybrid, so I will just be ordering the 5-PW.

1) Mizuno MX-200
2) Adams A4 Tech
3) Titleist AP1
4) Nike VR Full Cavity

I used to play Ping G10's, but desired a little more "feel" in my irons.

Posted
Among the four sets you've listed, I think the Mizuno MX-200 is the one that is going to be the best longterm and will provide the best feel. All 4 sets are nice, though. The only one I haven't hit is the Nike VR Full Cavity (but I have hit the Blade and Split Cavity and was impressed/surprised). The best thing to do is just demo the clubs and go with what you like the look and feel of best. None of those will be a bad choice.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
Among the four sets you've listed, I think the Mizuno MX-200 is the one that is going to be the best longterm and will provide the best feel. All 4 sets are nice, though. The only one I haven't hit is the Nike VR Full Cavity (but I have hit the Blade and Split Cavity and was impressed/surprised). The best thing to do is just demo the clubs and go with what you like the look and feel of best. None of those will be a bad choice.

I noticed you are playing a split set. Do you have any problems going from 6 to 7 iron, since the MX-900 loft is stronger than the MP's? I would imagine you could hit your 6 iron almost as long as your 7 iron? I was considering a MP52 for 5,6 & MX-200 for 7-PW.


Posted
Mizuno MX 200 would be my choice.Nice clubs,good feedback and pretty foregiving.
Get fitted and have a few lessons,you will enjoy your game more

In The Bag
Mizuno MX 560 Driver
Taylor made 3 wood
Mizuno HIFLI 21*
Mizuno MX 25's 4-pwMizuno MX series wedges 50, 56*/11 & 60*Bettinardi C02 putter4 bottles of pilsner,2 packs cigars


Posted
Shocking that the ones who say Mizuno all play Mizuno irons. Go with what feels the best. I just ordered a new set of clubs and I demo'd irons for like 3 months until I made up my mind. Personally I think you'll get more out of the AP1's.

Good luck and take your time. It's a big decision!

X86 stand bag
905T Driver
AP2 4-W
R5 3 wood
3 hybrid Vokey SM 56 #1 putter Pro V1/Pro V1x


Posted
They're more technologically advanced. Which for an oversized club is great news because you won't be sacrificing "feel' for forgivness. You'll get the help you need with chunking the ball because of the slightly larger sole, the playability you want and I personally just think they look better. But that's me. My whole argument is that eventually you'll figure out why your chunking the ball and then you'll want to be able to get more creative with making shots. I just don't think you'll get bored with the AP1's. You'll be able to even work it a little bit and get better control approaching the green. If it were me I'd be looking for a set that I'm not going to want to trade in after a season or two...

X86 stand bag
905T Driver
AP2 4-W
R5 3 wood
3 hybrid Vokey SM 56 #1 putter Pro V1/Pro V1x


Posted
I noticed you are playing a split set. Do you have any problems going from 6 to 7 iron, since the MX-900 loft is stronger than the MP's? I would imagine you could hit your 6 iron almost as long as your 7 iron? I was considering a MP52 for 5,6 & MX-200 for 7-PW.

I actually had the MX-900 5 and 6 irons bent 2 degrees weaker which seemed to even out the distance gaps. If you were wanting to go with split set you should probably go with the more forgiving MX-200's in long irons and the less forgiving/more playable MP-52 irons in short irons. Most people that go with split sets use the more forgiving for longer irons.

Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
I actually had the MX-900 5 and 6 irons bent 2 degrees weaker which seemed to even out the distance gaps.

How did you figure out how much to do? Did u just space out the loft numbers or did you check your actual distances on the launch monitor or driving range?


Posted
If you were wanting to go with split set you should probably go with the more forgiving MX-200's in long irons and the less forgiving/more playable MP-52 irons in short irons.

Of course that's what I would do! Does the MP-60 ever penalize you on miss hits? I would guess they are a little less forgiving than the MP52s.


Posted
They're more technologically advanced. Which for an oversized club is great news because you won't be sacrificing "feel' for forgivness. You'll get the help you need with chunking the ball because of the slightly larger sole, the playability you want and I personally just think they look better. But that's me. My whole argument is that eventually you'll figure out why your chunking the ball and then you'll want to be able to get more creative with making shots. I just don't think you'll get bored with the AP1's. You'll be able to even work it a little bit and get better control approaching the green. If it were me I'd be looking for a set that I'm not going to want to trade in after a season or two...

So you are saying the AP1's can be better used by a "more skilled" golfer moreso than the MX-200s?


Posted
How did you figure out how much to do? Did u just space out the loft numbers or did you check your actual distances on the launch monitor or driving range?

I just went to driving range. I looked up the lofts online for both of my sets then went and hit the 5 and 6 irons for both sets side by side (only paying attention to the good shots). I went 2 degrees on a bit of a guess - the lofts were about 1* stronger and then it seemed they were a little longer than 1* so I made it 2*. In the end, the 2* change only will cut 3-5 yards or so off each club anyway. When I took them to the range after the change the MX irons seemed to be pretty close with the MP irons in distance. I'm not good enough to hit exact same distance every time anyway, so it's hard to tell, but the gaps look about right. I was considering having the 5 iron strenthened back 1 degree, but I'm in the air on that still.

Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
Of course that's what I would do! Does the MP-60 ever penalize you on miss hits? I would guess they are a little less forgiving than the MP52s.

The MP-60's are a little less forgiving than the MP-52's. I was ready to buy the 52's when I found the MP-60's used. I hit both in demo area for quite a while and was surprised the difference was less than I would have thought. They do penalize bad shots a bit more, but I actually found them to be slightly longer on good shots and less loss on off-center hits than I expected. I had thought I might replace the 5 and 6 with MP-52's or MX-200's, but found a good deal on the MX-900's and went with them. I got a full set of MX-900 (5-PW) in great shape for $85 so I just bought them.

Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
So you are saying the AP1's can be better used by a "more skilled" golfer moreso than the MX-200s?

At the moment I am on the verge of breaking 90.

I picked the AP1 for these reasons: 1) I always know where I have mishit the ball, however, the clubs don't punish too severely. 2) There is definitely potential for me to grow into these irons. I hit maybe 15% of my shots really good (100% flush with good release) and then the ball just takes off beautifully. The other 85% I get decent results (see 1) 3) I just love the moderate retro look. It was a big selling point for me. Don't like the too technical design of other irons

In my Tour Combo Bag:

Driver: Superquad 9.5°
5W: 2008 Burner 18°
3H: Idea Pro Gold 20°4H: 2008 Burner Rescue 22°Irons: MP52 R300 5-PWedges: Vokey SM 50.08, 54.11, 58.04, 60.11Putter: Itsy Bitsy SpiderBall: TP Red


Posted
I am getting conflicting answers.....some people say the AP1 is more of a club you can "grow into" and some say the MX-200 is??? What determines this? The MX200 has a smaller topline (7.1 to 8.4), but the AP1 has a smaller sole (22.3 to 25). The MX200 is also a little smaller heel to toe (88.4 to 91). I would say the smaller topline AND the smaller overall clubhead size would make the MX-200 more of a "players club". Am I wrong?

Posted
I am getting conflicting answers.....some people say the AP1 is more of a club you can "grow into" and some say the MX-200 is??? What determines this? The MX200 has a smaller topline (7.1 to 8.4), but the AP1 has a smaller sole (22.3 to 25). The MX200 is also a little smaller heel to toe (88.4 to 91). I would say the smaller topline AND the smaller overall clubhead size would make the MX-200 more of a "players club". Am I wrong?

When it comes right down to it, the choice is all about you and which one you like the look and feel of better. Both clubs are nice and will allow you to 'grow' without 'out growing' them (at least not quickly). In the end you might find you like the look of the Adams A4 Tech or Nike VR or some other club better. I personally prefer the look and feel of Mizuno irons, but I also think the AP1 is a nice iron - it's just different than the Mizzies. If possible, hit the clubs you like on a launch monitor or simulator and make your choice based on your own experiences.

The design elements that make up a 'player's club' would include the 3 elements you mention (clubhead size, topline and sole), as well as others, but to some degree some of that stuff is subjective. There are plenty of professionals playing with clubs that possess some of the design elements that we might not associate with a 'player's club', but they still work for those players.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
I am getting conflicting answers.....some people say the AP1 is more of a club you can "grow into" and some say the MX-200 is??? What determines this? The MX200 has a smaller topline (7.1 to 8.4), but the AP1 has a smaller sole (22.3 to 25). The MX200 is also a little smaller heel to toe (88.4 to 91). I would say the smaller topline AND the smaller overall clubhead size would make the MX-200 more of a "players club". Am I wrong?

My statement was purely for the AP1. I have never tried the MX200.

From what I read, both irons are very good. If you cant decide based on the specs, then pick the ones that look better to you. Liking my clubs is a big confidence-builder for me. Of course hitting them might not be such a bad idea either

In my Tour Combo Bag:

Driver: Superquad 9.5°
5W: 2008 Burner 18°
3H: Idea Pro Gold 20°4H: 2008 Burner Rescue 22°Irons: MP52 R300 5-PWedges: Vokey SM 50.08, 54.11, 58.04, 60.11Putter: Itsy Bitsy SpiderBall: TP Red


Note: This thread is 6110 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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