Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 4448 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Sorry if this is a redundant thread but I looked and could find anything that matched my question. Just wondering if anyone had any feedback on the differences between the two. I was thinking of upgrading my irons and based on what I read I keep reading the AP2's are quite forgiving. I know the AP1's are geared towards the mid handicap but I really like the look of the AP2's. Anyway, just wanted to know if anyone knew about these sets.

Posted

I think we have about the same handicap...so hopefully I can be a little helpful.

I went and hit the ap2's yesterday and they were amazing! Felt fantastic and had excellent ball flight. They felt more forgiving than the Mizuno 52's too. If you like them, go for em! The only reason I didn't get them was it was hard enough convincing the wife to let me shell out for the cheaper ap1's. It wasn't worth the fight for me

What's in the Bag?

HiBore 9.5 deg w/Grafalloy Pro Launch 65
Big Bertha 3w
Tight Lies I-Wood 24 deg ap1 4-pw x-14 3-pw Vokey 52.08, 60.06 Detour Marksman Blade


Posted
i hit both the AP1 and the AP2's .. granted i'm a low handicap player but I chose the AP2's.

You have to be on your game to hit them... if you feel off on your swing at all.. they will look small and you will have a hard time hitting them. It took me a few rounds this year to get my swing back and where I could hit them consistently at the start of the season.

They do have a great ball flight and look great at address as well.

You may also want to think about getting a mixed set .. AP1 4-7 and AP2 8-PW or something along those lines.

Sean

What's in the bag:
Driver: TaylorMade R11S 9 degree.  Set to upright 8 degree.  Aldila RIP Alpha 60s X flex shaft.

3 wood: TaylorMade 13 degree RocketBallz (coming shortly).. X Flex Matrix X Conn.

Hybrids: 2iron / 4iron Taylor Burner Rescue.

Irons: 5 - PW 2008 Model Year Titleist AP2

Wedges: 49*, 54* 60* Cleveland 588 Rusties.

Putter: Scotty Cameron Kombi Long.

Balls: Titleist Pro VX

Bag: Titleist Black / Red Staff


Posted
I have hit both and the AP1's feel good but the AP2's are better, IMHO. If you like to see at adress a thin topline you should go with the AP2, plus you get the feel of a forged club and forgiveness. They are really great clubs, I like my AP2's a lot!

Cheers!

Driver: 905R 9.5° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Fairway: 906F2 15° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Hybrid: 585.H 21° (S300) | Irons: AP2 4-PW (Project X 6.0) | Wedges: Vokey Design 52.08, 56.11 & 60.11  | Putter: Studio Select Newport 2 

www.flickr.com/avm_photo


Posted
so the ap2 is more difficult? I'm thinking about buying them with a projectx 5.5.

My ap2s have 6.0 shafts (there isnt really much difference) but ive found the AP2's arent any more or less forgiving than any other players iron. You miss them out on the toe and the ball stilll inst going anywhere. But if you are a low handicap, youll find them easy to use, if youre a mid handicap, you might have some difficulty with them. If that makes any sense. At 4.2 you shouldnt have much of a problem with them. The longer irons are extremley easy to get into the air.

The AP1's are a game improvement club. They are easier to hit than the AP2's. The heads are slightly bigger and they have more offset. A very nice club for 10 handicaps and up.
THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball

Posted

I am not a mid handicapper by any measure, but I do have the AP1's and I think that they are great. I tried hitting the AP2's adn I couldn't do squat. The son of a co-worker uses these (AP2) and it took this kid about 6 months to adjust to these clubs, and he is an avid player, I think he is on the golf team.

The AP1's are very easy to hit, even if you miss-hit. I can pla all the irons well, except 4i, but other than that, I love these clubs.

I guess the question is whether you want to improve and or maintain your game at the level you are and enjoy it, or if you are willing to get out of your comfort zone, in an attempt to get a better club. The possible outcomes from AP2's is either you improve to match the level of the club, or you get frustrated and go back to your old clubs. Or you get the AP1, which will not be a huge gap, if any, from your old clubs, but that will help you imrpve your game as well.

I hope that makes sense to you.

It's the indian, not the arrow! But it sure is nice to have good arrows!!!!!

Driver : r7 Limited 9.5* Matrix Ozik X-Con 5.5 (Reg) | Fairway: 906F4 15.5* (Reg) | Hybrids: DWS Baffler 3/R 20* (Reg) & Baffler Rail H 4-H 22* (Reg) | Irons: AP1 5-G (Reg) | Wedges: SW - SM56-10 & LW - SM60-04 | Putter:.....

Posted
A friend of mine, a 12-14 handicap, went in loving the look of the AP2 and had to be pushed to try out the AP1. He hit the AP1 about 5 yards farther, on average, and with an extremely consistent ball flight, compared to the spread on the AP2. He got the AP1, and has no regrets. The AP2s look just beautiful, but the 1s should not be ignored.

Posted
Thanks for all the feedback. This has been very helpful in determining which way I am going to go. A couple of comments stood out. One is the price issue. There is enough of a price difference to consider what is the better value for my game. Second, the playability issue. My strength is my short game (rolled in 28 putts on Wed and should have been 27. I ^&*$ 3 putted 18!) and my main goal this year to hit more greens in reg. From what I can see it sounds like the AP1's is the better choice for my style of play. The funny thing is last night I went to the range and was just striping my 735cm's. Funny how clubs have a sense when they are on the bubble! Anyway, I am not getting fooled by that and I know that over the course of a season I will make better quality shots into greens with a more forgiving club. Now comes the hard part. Convincing the wife that these clubs are an investment in our relationship. I sure hope Kay Jewelers has a nice sale coming up! Thanks again guys!

Posted
Thanks for all the feedback. This has been very helpful in determining which way I am going to go. A couple of comments stood out. One is the price issue. There is enough of a price difference to consider what is the better value for my game. Second, the playability issue. My strength is my short game (rolled in 28 putts on Wed and should have been 27. I ^&*$ 3 putted 18!) and my main goal this year to hit more greens in reg. From what I can see it sounds like the AP1's is the better choice for my style of play. The funny thing is last night I went to the range and was just striping my 735cm's. Funny how clubs have a sense when they are on the bubble! Anyway, I am not getting fooled by that and I know that over the course of a season I will make better quality shots into greens with a more forgiving club. Now comes the hard part. Convincing the wife that these clubs are an investment in our relationship. I sure hope Kay Jewelers has a nice sale coming up! Thanks again guys!

Oh the 735cm's are awesome, too.. So...ummm..good luck..LOL.

THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball

Posted
I have some related and unrelated feedback. I just went from a GI iron last fall to a players iron. I had old cleveland TA5s with SL300 S shafts. I am not saying they are as nice as the AP1s but similar in offset and size. I got a new set of MP 60s with DG300s S shafts (these are about 20 grams heavier). I love the way my new irons look but they have really exposed my poor iron play. They are about a half club shorter and I seem to pull the ball just as much. The reason I got them was because I thought the minimal offset would help take the hook out of my iron play and be able to play a more straight ball flight. Don't get me wrong, they feel incredible when I hit it good, but becuase my miss is out on the toe because of my over the top pull move that I am trying to rid, I am not getting as good results as I did with my old irons. My index has went up 1.3 points in two revisions.

Good thing is I know I need to improve. Bad thing is I am getting punished for my miss hits and flawed golf swing.

I am considering lessons right now because I have gotten used to shoting in the low 80s and it hasn't been the case recently.

Hope this helps

Brian


Posted
I have some related and unrelated feedback. I just went from a GI iron last fall to a players iron. I had old cleveland TA5s with SL300 S shafts. I am not saying they are as nice as the AP1s but similar in offset and size. I got a new set of MP 60s with DG300s S shafts (these are about 20 grams heavier). I love the way my new irons look but they have really exposed my poor iron play. They are about a half club shorter and I seem to pull the ball just as much. The reason I got them was because I thought the minimal offset would help take the hook out of my iron play and be able to play a more straight ball flight. Don't get me wrong, they feel incredible when I hit it good, but becuase my miss is out on the toe because of my over the top pull move that I am trying to rid, I am not getting as good results as I did with my old irons. My index has went up 1.3 points in two revisions.

It helps alot! I can relate. What's going on with me is I am hitting my driver well at about 230-240 pretty straight and my fairway woods have never been better. It's my wedge game and sinking 10 footers that is bailing me out. I have been feasting on par 5's because it's been driver, fairwood wood, then wedge to the green. No irons! I played a course Wed that has 5 par 5's (par 73) and on all 5 I never hit a single iron shot. Played them -1. That's been the pattern starting late last year and so far this year. After taking a long look at my game the part that is suffering is hitting greens on par 4's. I'm not even asking for 50 or 60% just a couple more per round will make a big difference in my scores.Or at least that the plan anyway!


Posted
My plan is to stick with these irons for the rest of the year. I am going to seek professional help (not a shrink) and see if I can fix my move. I have also lost my driver because I have so much going on trying to correct that I just can't play.

Brian


Posted
Aloha all,
I recently got fitted for a set of Titleist irons and woods as a wedding gift from the new bride and ended up with the AP2 irons. I was originally set on the AP1 but the fitter said I was capable of using the AP2 irons. I do like the thinner top line and I got them 2 degrees upright and the stock, Project X 5.5 shaft. They are amazing. There's something to be said about being fit for clubs and those are amazing. My old set were stock Nike CCI cast irons and I loved them but these AP2's are amazing. Put it this way. with the Nike CCI irons, I can hit my 5 iron maybe 2 out of 5 times straight and onto the fairway. With the AP2, I'm 4 out of 5 on the fairway. I get better ball flight and this is all due to being fitted.
I say if you can get fitted, do it, this way you can see how your launch angle and spin rate are for each iron. If your numbers are similar, then it just comes down to how well you like the club looking down at it, and cost. Good luck!

909 D2, 9.5 with Matrix Ozik XCon 5
909 F2, 15.5 3W with Matrix Ozik Xcon 5
909 H, 19 & 24 with stock Aldila Voodoo S
AP2, 5-PW with Project X 5.5
CG10, 52 gap wedge CG10, 56 sand wedge Spin Milled, 60 lob wedge Newport 2.5


  • 4 years later...
Posted

I am a 58 year old, new golfer and really into it. I want to get better than average. Right now I have an old 735 combo set. Clearly not the clubs I should be hitting but I love them. I tried the Calaway razrr clubs and really did not like how they feel. I am playing almost every day and intend to stick with it, till I get pretty good.

I purchased the 735 a few years ago to have the same set as my son who was a -3.5 handicap. I don't feel like the clubs really hurt me that much, as they provide such a great feel. But seems both the AP1 and AP2 would be more forgiving. My misses are generally really deep digs, so I don't see how a bigger sweet spot would help. If I don't dig, I usually hit the head pretty solid.

Price is really not such an issue for me.

What do you think?

My concern about what should be the obvious choice given my handicap, the AP1's, is that I will lose the benefit of feeling a miss hit. That was part of why I did not like the Razr x's.


Posted

I am a 58 year old, new golfer and really into it. I want to get better than average. Right now I have an old 735 combo set. Clearly not the clubs I should be hitting but I love them. I tried the Calaway razrr clubs and really did not like how they feel. I am playing almost every day and intend to stick with it, till I get pretty good.

I purchased the 735 a few years ago to have the same set as my son who was a -3.5 handicap. I don't feel like the clubs really hurt me that much, as they provide such a great feel. But seems both the AP1 and AP2 would be more forgiving. My misses are generally really deep digs, so I don't see how a bigger sweet spot would help. If I don't dig, I usually hit the head pretty solid.

Price is really not such an issue for me.

What do you think?

My concern about what should be the obvious choice given my handicap, the AP1's, is that I will lose the benefit of feeling a miss hit. That was part of why I did not like the Razr x's.

I'm 59 and am thinking real hard about a set of AP1s. Or perhaps a mixed set with 8 or 9 through gap wedge in AP2.  I have been playing Ping G20s for over a year now and my game has improved a lot.  I can assure you that I (at least) can definitely tell when I have mishit a shot and in what way.

Most of my mishits are out toward the toe of the club and I can feel it when it happens, even if people watching me make the shot may not notice because the shot doesn't go completely to hell. (That's a real good thing, by the way. :-)  The AP1s, while definitely Game Improvement class clubs, are more "player oriented" than my G20s certainly (somewhat smaller heads, narrower soles, less offset, etc.).  I have absolutely no doubt I'll always be able to tell when I'm not flushing a shot.

Driver: Titleist 913 D2 10.5*, Aldila RIP Phenom 50

Fairway 1: Titleist 913F, 17*, Titleist Bassara W55

Fairway 2: Titleist 913F, 21*, Titleist Bassara W55

Irons: Titleist AP1 714 5-PW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95

Wedges: SCOR 4161 48/52/56/60, Genius 9

Grips: GolfPride New Decade Red Mid-size on all of the above.

Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 - Super Stroke Slim 3.0


Posted
AP1's are great all round clubs. Love mine. They feel great when you put a good swing on it. You can feel your mishits too, perhaps not like your 735's and I can't compare directly, but to me it's enough. I can definitely tell when I mishit one.

In my Sun Mountain 14 Way Stand Bag:

Driver - Ping G30 10.5* : Fairway - Ping G30 18* : Hybrids - Titleist 915H 21* & 915 H 24* : Irons - Mizuno JPX 850 Forged 5 - GW : Wedges, Vokey 54.14, Vokey 58.12 : Putter - Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 or Ping Craz-E-R  : Ball - Bridgestone B330RX, Cart - Cliqgear 3.5


Posted

so the ap2 is more difficult? I'm thinking about buying them with a projectx 5.5.

Yea, they're more geared towards a solid player but at a 4 handicap you won't have any issues.  I play the 2008 model AP2s with the Project X 5.5, and absolutely love them.  Ball flight is great, feel is great, etc.  However, since they are now 5+ years old I'm looking to upgrade.  I hit the new AP2s last Friday, and I'm already 100% confident they will be in my bag this year (they come out November 8th).  Go check them out - you won't be sorry you did!


Note: This thread is 4448 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 1: 2025.12.26 Worked on LH position on grip, trying to keep fingers closer to perpendicular to the club. Feels awkward but change is meant to.
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.