Forgiveness AND some workability?

[Alohaed]

Hi there,
Newbie here. My first thread. I am using old Taylor Made Supersteels. Not only do they have the wrong shafts flex, I need regular and these are stiff, but after I got fitted for hybrids, I found out I need 1" to 1.5" longer shafts. No wonder I keep topping the ball and a misshit shoots pain up my arm. Anyway... in a nutshell, what is workability? I read plenty of posts and reviews stating that clubs with forgiveness sacrifices workability. I haven't brokend 100 yet, have no time go golf regularly and work on my game. IF I can get tee time on weekends here in NYC, I can still only really play twice monthy. So I need game improvement irons. With these, can one at least learn to draw and fade, hitting around a tree or any other large object in my path? I am thinking of maybe the Cobra S9s or SZs? And, I know there are tons of posts on the Titleist AP1s so I am not asking for review or opinion, BUT, can a high handicapper still use these? Can I play decently until I get better?
Thanks,
Eddie

[grantc79]

Basically what you wind up with is this.

Super Game Improvement:

Large offset aka a hook face because most bad players slice the ball
Lots of perimeter weighting on the toe and heel of the club
Very little weighting on the sweet spot
Thick sole to help get the ball in the air and help with fat and thin shots
Generally larger and more forgiving head

Super Players Irons:

Minimal if any offset in essence anti-left
Almost if not all weighting placed directly behind the sweetspot
Very little if any perimeter weighting
Thin sole which requires near perfect contact
Generally smaller, more compact, and not at all forgiving head


So basically what you wind up with is a Super Game Improvement club is designed to make the ball go high and straight. It has weight everywhere but the sweet spot assuming that if you hit it on the toe or heel you will still get good distance because of the perimeter weighting and if you hit it on the sweet spot then its going to go pretty decent anyways. Basically they make the sweet spot bigger and even if you miss that you still have a lot of strategically placed weight to help you out.

A players muscleback blade will only do what you tell it to do. If you hit it thin there is no thick sole weighting to help the ball get up in the air. If you hit it fat the club isn't designed to plow through the ground and bail you out. If you hit it anywhere but the smaller sweet spot the club will immediately tell you and you will lose a lot of yardage.


You can work any club out there. I can hit a soft fade with a Super Game Improvement iron all day long. It wants to go left, but you can make it go right.

A muscle back doesn't want to do anything other than what you tell it to do, good or bad.

[Power_fade]

I would highly reccomend the Cobra S9. It'll give you a ton of help, but the smaller head profile compared to most SGI irons allow you to work it just a little. If you only play twice a month, you'll need a lot more forgiveness than workability. And yes, a high handicapper could use AP1s, but only if he or she is a decent to good iron player.

[dncfry]

Go get the R7 Irons you can get them for under 400, they are forgiving and allow you to work the ball a little, Kenny Perry used them for a while.

[kregan]

If you are looking at older models to save a little money...

TM os2's 2005 are a good GI iron that you can work a little. The next step up would be the TM LT2 2005's that are easier to work but still a GI iron.

I just moved up from OS2's to LT2's. I really liked both sets of irons.