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Posted
I am playing with Callaway X-18's for irons. I use the PW 46 degree and Approach wedge 51 degree (gap wedge) I also have the sand wedge 56 degree. I bought a Cleveland 60 degree and do not have confidence with it.

An oddity of my wedges is that I hit the PW 125-130, the Approach 100 SW 60.

I want to replace the AW with something with a little more loft so I can hit a soft pitch into the green more easily.

I am considering a Vokey with a 52 degree loft and an 8 degree bounce or a 54 degree with a 10 degree bounce.

If that creates odd gaps I would not be adverse to adding the Vokey 48 degree PW and an additional wedge. Keeping the SW I have.

Any thoughts?
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Posted
I am playing with Callaway X-18's for irons. I use the PW 46 degree and Approach wedge 51 degree (gap wedge) I also have the sand wedge 56 degree. I bought a Cleveland 60 degree and do not have confidence with it.

Why not replace the 60* if you have no confidence in it? As far as your current distance gaps go, you have a larger gap from the AW to the 60*. A lot of players opt for a 58* as it is a bit easier to hit with no huge loss in loft.

I use 3 wedges - 47, 52, and 56, but if I had it to do over I would go with 47, 54, 60 or 47, 52, 58. I just don't find that 4 degrees offers enough of a gap for my game. Eventually I will adjust my wedges to fit that, but in the meantime I do just fine by opening the 52 and 56 up a degree or two when needed.
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Posted
Speaking to my pro he said that because my sets PW is 46 degree going to a 48 would leave too large a gap. He said if I wanted to replace my current gap wedge with a Vokey I should do a 50 gap and a 54 sand.

Any thoughts?
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Posted
I am playing with Callaway X-18's for irons. I use the PW 46 degree and Approach wedge 51 degree (gap wedge) I also have the sand wedge 56 degree. I bought a Cleveland 60 degree and do not have confidence with it.

Are you practicing with 3/4 and 1/2 shots? Even at those full shot distances, you shouldn't have any gaps. I'm guessing you'd hit something like this: PW Full - 125 3/4 - 105-100 1/2 - 85 51* Full - 100 3/4 - 80 1/2 - 60 56* Full - 60 3/4 - 45 1/2 - 35

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Posted
You are are correct but the full SW is a long way from the full Gap. I am not comfortable hitting a full SW with my current SW which is 56 degree.
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Posted
I think you should probably replace the 60 if you have no confidence in it. the Vokeys are the best wedges available so i think it's a good idea to replace your wedges with those. I have a 54 (bent to 53) and a 58 Vokey wedges. i only have two wedges because i have a bigger gap between the 3W and the 3i so i need to buy a 2H

Posted
Learn to hit the shots with what you have. I play a 47(pw), 52(gw), 58(sw/lw). I only hit the 58 from the sand and greenside shots that don't have a lot of green to work with. I hit the 52 about 110 on a full shot. So I use that from 110 in.

What do you mean a "soft pitch"? How far out are we talking here?

Posted
How are you crushing a PW 130 and a sand wedge only 60!?

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Posted
Learn to hit the shots with what you have. I play a 47(pw), 52(gw), 58(sw/lw). I only hit the 58 from the sand and greenside shots that don't have a lot of green to work with. I hit the 52 about 110 on a full shot. So I use that from 110 in.

By soft pitch I mean up over a green side bunker landing soft. 20-30 feet.

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Posted
How are you crushing a PW 130 and a sand wedge only 60!?

I don't really "crush" a PW. That is just swinging smooth. The rest of the clubs follow in line and I do not consider myself a long hitter.

I think I get arm / wristy with the SW because it is short and effectively increase the loft.
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Posted
By soft pitch I mean up over a green side bunker landing soft. 20-30 feet.

You should be able to do that easily with your 56.


Posted
I don't really "crush" a PW. That is just swinging smooth. The rest of the clubs follow in line and I do not consider myself a long hitter.

I am kind of like you. I hit my pw about 130. I have never been able to hit a SW for some reason. My old set I would use my PW from 140 through the green. I can hit my new SW a little better, but only about 70 yards.


Posted
I'm looking at getting a wedge or two today as well. I play the Mp-14s right now, and, as some might know, the lofts are pretty weak. I play the set's PW which is at 50*. I also have a 56* wedge and a 60* wedge.

The problem I have is that I max out my 56* at 80 yards and I hit my 50* about 120 and my 60* maybe about 65-70 yds. I rarely use the 60* for for shots though. So I don't really have a 100 yard club, which I would like.

I have been looking at the following options:

OPTION 1: CG12 52* (black pearl) as a gap wedge btw 50 and 56. Lose the 3 wd. Thus carrying 50, 52, 56, and 60* wedges.

OPTION 2: CG12 52* (black pearl) as a gap wedge. Lose the 50*. Thus carrying, 52, 56, 60* wedges.

OPTION 3: CG12 52* (black pearl) as a gap wedge. Adding a 58* to replace 56* and 60*. Thus carrying 50, 52, 58* wedges.

OPTION 4: CG12 54* (black pearl) as gap wedge. Adding a 58* to replace 56* and 60*. Thus carrying 50, 54, 58* wedges.

What do you all think?

My reason for going Cleveland on the gap wedge is that I don't want too much spin. I already get plenty from longer wedge shots. Shorter wedges, I would consider Vokeys.

In a staff blue  Aerolite III

Razr Hawk 10.5* (BB 63 S)
Orig Steelhead 4W 16.8* (F)
Orig Steelhead 7W 20* (M-10)

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Posted
I'm looking at getting a wedge or two today as well. I play the Mp-14s right now, and, as some might know, the lofts are pretty weak. I play the set's PW which is at 50*. I also have a 56* wedge and a 60* wedge.

I think you would be happiest with option 4.


Posted

Hmmm. That would be the most expensive option too. lol I also toyed with the idea of bending the MP-14 PW 1 or two degrees stronger to 49 or 48. Then again, I have a set of Mizuno GRAD MPs which has a 47* PW. Way too many options.

In a staff blue  Aerolite III

Razr Hawk 10.5* (BB 63 S)
Orig Steelhead 4W 16.8* (F)
Orig Steelhead 7W 20* (M-10)

 JPX-800 Pro 4-pw (XP S300)

 MP-T Blk Ni 51.06, MP-T Blk Ni 56.14, MP-T Blk Ni 58.10

  Bettinardi BC-1 (34")

TM TP Black


Posted
Hmmm. That would be the most expensive option too. lol I also toyed with the idea of bending the MP-14 PW 1 or two degrees stronger to 49 or 48. Then again, I have a set of Mizuno GRAD MPs which has a 47* PW. Way too many options.

If you bend your PW, are you going to bend your 3-9 the same amount? You will throw off your gaps the other way if you just do the PW.


Posted
Well, the way I saw it was that I would just throw off the gap between the 9 and PW with a bend. Currently, that gap sits at about 15 yards (135 9i and 120 PW). However, I should probably not mess with bending it. I figure with the 54* I will max out at about 92-95 yards, though. I guess that would be close enough to 100 yds. So . . . 50, 54, and 60 for now. Then I will add the 58 to replace the 60.

In a staff blue  Aerolite III

Razr Hawk 10.5* (BB 63 S)
Orig Steelhead 4W 16.8* (F)
Orig Steelhead 7W 20* (M-10)

 JPX-800 Pro 4-pw (XP S300)

 MP-T Blk Ni 51.06, MP-T Blk Ni 56.14, MP-T Blk Ni 58.10

  Bettinardi BC-1 (34")

TM TP Black


Posted
I don't really "crush" a PW. That is just swinging smooth. The rest of the clubs follow in line and I do not consider myself a long hitter.

Something isnt right with those yardages. I think you should have a professional figure out why you hit your PW 125 and you 56* sandwedge less then half of that. I think you may be onto something when you say you get too wristy with the wedges.

My numbers are: PW-125 54*SW-105 58*LW-85 I dont consider myself long either...I am usually around 250-260 with the driver.

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