Estimate for putting a roof over a tee box

[DaSportsGuy]

I'm thinking about putting a roof over the tee box in my backyard or possibly even heating it that way I can hit some balls during the Winter months.

Anyway, how much would you estimate it would cost me just to put a roof over it? Basically, how much would it cost me to buy the wood? It's 23x7ft.

[flopdarock]

id say it all depends on how elaborate you wanna get with it... id draw up a sketch and bring it to home depot and they can help you with an estimate... my brothers set up in his basement didnt cost too much... my buddies set up in his garage was pretty elaborate... and another friends deal in his back yard was pretty ghetto and cheap

[groovezilla79]

Im bored here at work, so I've decided to sketch this out and give a rough estimate of what it may cost you along with materials. This is assuming it will be free standing... no side attached to your house or anything. If it would be attached to your house in a sort of "porch" configuration, the materials would change a little bit. This is also assuming you have tools needed to do the job. Anyways, here goes:

You'll want to put 4x4x12' treated post on each corner, then 2 more on the 23' sides just under 8' apart. Since you live in Ohio, I would put these posts 20" - 24" deep to keep below the frost line. This will give you roughly a 10' high structure. You can also get 14' posts to get you up to 12'. Im assuming you'll be hitting out of the 23' wide side, so you may want to put the rear 23' side a foot or so lower than the front, so that rain will go off the back.

Once the posts are set and square, you'll need to put a band board around the outside top of the the posts to make your basic form. You'll need a couple 2x8x10' for the 7' sides and six more for the 23' sides. These should be nailed to the 4x4 posts with 16d a couple treated nails. With those nails holding them in place, I would then put two 3/8 x 8" carriage bolts through each end of those 2x8's to attach them to the 4x4's. This will give you a nice, strong frame. If you decide to make the structure slanted, as mentioned above, you'll need to cut these at an angle to match up square to the posts. The angle will depend on how much of a slant the roof is on.

Next, comes joists. You'll need to put a 2x6x8 every 18". Normally you'd due 16" here, but this is a non load bearing structure, so you can do a little wider. If you do 18" centers, you'd be looking at 15 joists. There will be a little wider gap at one end but that is ok. I would also recommend using joist hangers to secure these to the inside of the 2x10 band board. From the outside of the band board, you'll want to put a couple 16d treated nails into the joist as well. Again, if the structure is on an angle, these will need to be cut on an angle as well.

For the top, you'll need six 4'x 8' x 5/8" sheets of plywood. This will give you a 24' x 8' square when laid together. Nail these to the joists with some 8d treated nails. You'll want to experiment with the extra foot of plywood you'll have on the 23' side because its not likely the edge of each of those sheets of plywood will line up exactly with the joists. You always want to have the edge of that plywood resting on and nailed to a joist for strength and safety. If needed, you can get 2 extra sheets of plywood and use a couple have or 1/3 size sheets to get the spacing right.

Finally, you'll want to put down some tar paper and shingles. Most shingles come in 1/3 square bundles. 3 bundles make a square, which is roughly 100 square feet (10x10) You have about 160 square feet of space, so I would go ahead and buy 2 full squares, or 6 bundles to make sure you have enough. Tar paper comes in 100 square foot rolls, so you'll need 2 of those as well. Put the tar paper down with roofing nails that have the pretty colored plastic caps on, the lay down the shingles with standard roofing nails.

So, with all of that being said, here is a rough idea of what those materials would cost. Keep in mind, the prices of wood go up and down as frequent as every day and also vary by where you live, so this will just be a ballpark.

$ Qty Item
1528 4x4x12
202 2x8x8
726 2x8x10
13515 2x6x8

4532 3/8x8" carriage bolts with nuts/washers
52 1lb box of 16d treated nails
151 5lb box of 8d treated nails
201 5lb box of capped roof nails for tar paper
151 5lb box of regular roofing nails

906 bundles standard 15 year shingles
302 rolls 15 year tar paper

4030 2x6 joist hangers
102 2lb box joist hanger nails

284 80lb bags concrete mix (to set posts)

677Grand total

[iacas]

Why is there a tee box in your back yard? Is it yours?

Also, you do realize that you're likely going to kill some grass if you don't take it down, and taking it down and putting it up every year seems awfully silly to me... particularly when you likely have a garage that would be just fine as a hitting area, no?

[lcfd42]

Just built a 10 x 20 vynil sid. and shingle roof and materials were @ $850 but I wired a couple of lights and a slab door. Its used to store lawn equipment (tiller, mower, etc...) In your case use a conservative est. $750-1000 and always expect the final bill to be about 10% more than your estimate. Good luck with your project.

[DaSportsGuy]

Why is there a tee box in your back yard? Is it yours?

It's in my back yard because I use it as my personal driving range tee box. Yes, it's mine. I made it.

I'm not going to completely close it in so it can still get sunlight and I water it on my own in the Summer months.

[DaSportsGuy]

Im bored here at work, so I've decided to sketch this out and give a rough estimate of what it may cost you along with materials. This is assuming it will be free standing... no side attached to your house or anything. If it would be attached to your house in a sort of "porch" configuration, the materials would change a little bit. This is also assuming you have tools needed to do the job. Anyways, here goes:

I've already got plenty of shingles from when we got our roof re-done last year and we have five or six extra packages so that should be fine.

It's on a hill so do you think I could just let the water run off the front into a gutter? Thank you very much for your post! I wasn't expecting a response that thourough so I definitely appreciate it.

[DaSportsGuy]

A few questions:


-I've decided to extend the size of the roof so I can have a little space to keep my clubs when I'm practicing. New size-- 23x11ft.

1) Could I avoid putting the 4x4x12's along the front side of the tee box? I will be hitting out of the 23ft. side so are putting those posts along that side a must or can I do without?

2) Would 10ft. high enough to get a good full swing in? Any way I could make it 12 ft high and use 4x4x12 posts(maybe 4x4x15 in the front)?

3) The location of the roof is not exactly and ideal place. It's on a hill. Should the posts that are on the front be longer so the water can run off the back?(In my previous post I said I wanted it to run off the front. Disregard that.)

-FYI, I'm going to put walls on the back side(23 ft long, 10 or 12 ft high-see #2) and one of the sides(5 ft long, 10 or 12 ft high-see #2).

4) Should I do all the things previousley posted, how would that change the materials?

[groovezilla79]

A few questions:

1.) Three options here: (but are custom jobs, so would be more expensive) 1-Find a building supplier that can get steel beams. Get a 24' steel beam and use 6x6's on the front corner instead of 4x4's 2-Make you're own beam out of 2x12's and rolled steel. You can get rolled steel from a building supplier that sells barn siding. This normally comes in 3' wide rolls. They have a press that will flatten it for you and then have them rip cut it into three 1'x8' pieces. Now, lay two 2x12's end to end and the steel sheets on top of that. Then, you'll need two more 2x12's to complete the "sandwitch". However, don't just put the second set of 2x12's down end to end. You'll have the seam in the same spot as the opposite side. Instead, cut one 2x12 in half so that on the second side of this beam, you'll have a 6' piece, then 12', then 6'. Bolt it all together with carriage bolts. Again, use 6x6 posts at the corners. 3-Find a place that can order glulam. You'll see these inside great rooms of big houses most often, but can use them outside. Here's an example: http://usglulam.com/ 2.) You can go as high as you want as long as you can find long enough posts. In my area, 14' long about the biggest you can find. That would get you to 12', which is definately enough room to swing driver. 3.) Yes, this is what I was getting at earlier. I'd definately have it tilted front to back. You don't want a waterfall coming off the front edge of this thing when you hit balls. 4.) Change in materials are noted in #1. However, I can't really give an idea on the price change because they are not materials I usually deal with, just those that I know of.

[groovezilla79]

Also, I just realized in my original post, I did not include the plywood on the cost. 6 sheets of 4x8x5/8 plywood is going to run you about another 150 bucks.

Another option for you roof, and to save weight, would be to consider metal roofing. It would be a little more expensive than plywood, tar paper and shingles, but would be better for having less weight to support.

[ugottabjoshinme]

A few questions:

I don't think you can avoid putting the posts in the front. If you remove them, there is nothing to support the joists and the roof on that front.

Also, I would make sure you verify what the frost depth is in Canton. I read that Ohio is 36" - 48" depending on location (North-South). The posts have to go to that depth or else your structure will heave in the winter. Your also going to need concrete to encapsulate your posts (in the ground). Probably 1 foot in diameter say 3 feet long. so thats added cost to the above estimate.

[wedstuntpuller]

If you dont wanna spend too much you can always get a decent enclosed tent too and just put a space heater in it...

[bcp]

How much for a retractable roof like Minute Maid Park??

[ugottabjoshinme]

If you dont wanna spend too much you can always get a decent enclosed tent too and just put a space heater in it...

This is a decent idea. You wouldn't be able to enclose the whole 23' at one time, but it should be easy enough to move to a different spot once a week or something like that. Unless you plan on having multiple people hit at once like a driving range.