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Posted
I'm looking to replace my wedges because I'm digging way too much with them...especially on fuller shots. They were a bad purchase in retrospect. I bought them for their versatility of playing many different shots, but found that I really am only able to hit them well when I'm chipping to a pin, as opposed to trying to get to the green from 110 and in. It's really too bad because they are custom spin-milled Vokeys (TVD M grind) that cost me 200 a piece. I had them bent 1* strong to fill yardage gaps more effectively. They were 54* & 58* to start. I may trade or sell these once I find their replacement if anyone is interested. The grooves are still super sharp. I digress...

I'm definitely a digger/driver and am curious if anyone can recommend any wedges with appropriate bounce for my swing. Clearly hitting and getting fit is the ideal, but I'm looking to just research at this point. What brands (other than Scratch because I've already seen that they would work) would you recommend for someone in my position? I'm interested in Callaway X-Forged Tour, Clevelands, and Mizunos, but am open to other suggestions.

R7 Superquad

Exotics 18*

Exotics 25*

AP2 (2008)

CG15 56* & 60*

Rossa Imola 8

TP Black LDP
 


Posted
it wasn't the vokeys fault it was the person that bent them's fault, he got rid of all the bounce when he bent them and never told you.
You probably only have a couple of degrees bounce.
you'd want around 10 on the 53 and 8-ish on the 57

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
I'm looking to replace my wedges because I'm digging way too much with them...especially on fuller shots. They were a bad purchase in retrospect. I bought them for their versatility of playing many different shots, but found that I really am only able to hit them well when I'm chipping to a pin, as opposed to trying to get to the green from 110 and in. It's really too bad because they are custom spin-milled Vokeys (TVD M grind) that cost me 200 a piece. I had them bent 1* strong to fill yardage gaps more effectively. They were 54* & 58* to start. I may trade or sell these once I find their replacement if anyone is interested. The grooves are still super sharp. I digress...

I picked up a higher bounce 60* Ben Hogan Colonial last fall. They're cheap like borscht - if you can find them. I wish I'd picked up the matching 52* and sand wedge, because they were sold out when I went back.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
For your new wedges, you need to determine the rated bounce (engraved on club) and the effective bounce (adjustments for clubhead characteristics). Club designer Ralph Maltby covers this in an article called, Determining Playability of Wedges :
http://www.ralphmaltby.com/50

The Callaway X Tour and X Forged wedges (2009 reference guide) all have 10º or more bounce for the most part. A few in the lob range have 9º bounce.

I play an X Forged SW (56.14), and have good luck with it as a bunker club and fluffy rough club. My PW and GW have medium bounce, as I have a medium attack angle on my swing. If you come down steep, the Callaway wedges might be what you need. Also, some of the pre-Jaws models are selling here and there for $89 lately.

Focus, connect and follow through!

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Posted
it wasn't the vokeys fault it was the person that bent them's fault, he got rid of all the bounce when he bent them and never told you.

Bending them 1* strong would really have that much affect on the bounce? If that's the case, then having them bent back could help solve the problem right?

R7 Superquad

Exotics 18*

Exotics 25*

AP2 (2008)

CG15 56* & 60*

Rossa Imola 8

TP Black LDP
 


Posted
Bending them 1* strong would really have that much affect on the bounce? If that's the case, then having them bent back could help solve the problem right?

with high lofted wedges yes.

Ask the people at the shop you bought it at. what were the original bounces?

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
If you knew that you were a digger, then why the M's? and not the TK or V's? Bending can help, but I think you need to figure out what gaps you want to fill and then go hit some wedges. I recommend the Mizuno MP T series and I really like my Vokey Raws...

"the only thing you should force in a golf swing is the club back into the bag" --Byron Nelson

Driver 983 K 8.5 Grafalloy ProLite Stiff
Fairway Big Bertha Steel Head 4 Wood Memphis 10 Steel
Irons 3-PW CB 690 Flighted Rifle 6.0 +.50..+1^Wedges Mild Steel Raw 254-10 & 260-10..+2^Putter 8802 the...


Posted
I bought them from Bob Vokey's website. The 54* is listed as having 14* of measured bounce but 10* of Effective bounce. The 58* is listed as having 14* of measured bounce but 8* of Effective bounce.

R7 Superquad

Exotics 18*

Exotics 25*

AP2 (2008)

CG15 56* & 60*

Rossa Imola 8

TP Black LDP
 


Posted
I saw one of the mini-lessons on the golf channel this morning. They took a tee and placed it on the wedge club face to show the direction of your shot. Then they showed how your launch angle will shift if you have more "toe" or more "heel". It made me rethink how important it is to keep the wedge on the ball at the correct plane. Too much "toe" will also make a deeper divot. If you added 1* strong, you have in effect made the face dig in the ground more.

Posted
I bought them from Bob Vokey's website. The 54* is listed as having 14* of measured bounce but 10* of Effective bounce. The 58* is listed as having 14* of measured bounce but 8* of Effective bounce.

bending wouldn't make much of a difference if you've got that much bounce on your clubs.

Are you only chunking them now? because the ground is pretty soft right now. And what do you think is digging down too much? taking a divot?

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
I bought them over the winter when I was living in NY. I used to practice in a golf dome. They weren't an issue there because of the mats I was hitting off. As soon as I got them on the course the digging began. The leading edge just digs in behind the ball and doesn't come out of the turf. The contact would be okay if the leading edge wouldn't dig and ruin the shot. I used to play Cleveland CG11s (tow dot) and had no issues. I think I'll just need to get new wedges. Someone will be happy with some new wedges once I get mine replaced.

R7 Superquad

Exotics 18*

Exotics 25*

AP2 (2008)

CG15 56* & 60*

Rossa Imola 8

TP Black LDP
 


Note: This thread is 5764 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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