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Posted
So I figured with my handicap I shouldn't even bother with the MP line, but after hitting both I am torn between which to buy and will likely mix the set (52s for 3-5 and 58s for 6-pw). I was hitting both demo 6 irons with a stiff shaft between 160 and 170 yards. I spend my entire round hitting the two, trying to decide if I liked either and if so, which. Turns out it went right down to the 18th hole. I sat 2 balls down about 160 away from the front of the green. I hit the mp52 onto the right side of the green (about 15-20 feet from the pin), then I hit the mp58 with a slight draw just off the left side of the green. Identical distances and even though the mp58 shot landed just off the green it was actually a little closer to the pin.

Would a split set as I described above sound like a good option based on my success with both clubs and my current approx. handicap?

-Tyler

Posted
I'm sorry but what was the gain you expect to see from a mixed set? I'd get the best clubs I could that suit my aspirations. Mixing clubs? Not me.

It ain't bragging if you can do it.
 
Taylor Made Burner '09 8.5* UST Pro Force V2, Mizuno F-60 3 wood UST Pro Force V2, Mizuno MP-68 3-PW  S300, Bobby Jones Wedges S and L, Nike Ignite 001, Leupold GX-II


Posted
As you can see from my signature I have a Mizuno mixed set. I don't have any issues with favoring one set more, yardages, or any other differences in feel. Play the ones you feel most confident with, if that's a mixed set then go for it.

In my sack:

Driver: VR STR-8 Fit Tour 10.5 VooDoo stiff
3 wood: 909F2 13.5* stiff Diamana
Hybrid: Rescue 19* stiff3-6: MP 52 S3007-PW: MP 62 S300Wedges: 54-12, 58-8Putter: Newport 2 TeI3


Posted
To respond to the question about mixing the set, I feel confident in both sets and hit them the same yardage, but ultimately feel i could be more consistent with the 52s while able to work the ball better with the 58s. Both sets feel very similar to me so i would not mind the transition at all during game play.

I am not sure that I could afford either of these sets right now, but am wondering how much different the mp 57s are? For those of you that have hit the 57s and 58s did you notice a big difference (I am asking b/c i noticed they are a good bit cheaper)? I am hoping my pro has a 57 to try but I am not sure.

Posted
stick with one set and throw some hybrids in there. if you plan on lowering your handicap quite a bit over the next couple years, go with the 58's. you won't come to a point where you want more workability

2010 Staff Bag
2010 S2 Driver - Stiff - (-.5")
2010 S2 3 Wood - Stiff
2010 Baffler TWS Hybrids 3 & 4
2010 MP-58 5-PW Irons - (+.5") 2010 MP-T10 Black Satin 52° - 56° - 60° - (+.5") 2009 Black Carbon 2 Putter Winn Grip e6Photos of my bag Golf Galaxy Wisconsin Amateur Tour PlayerGolf...


Posted
Although I loved hitting the 58s, are there other cheaper options I could demo? I would love to get new clubs soon, but do not have $850 laying around. I am looking more in the $3-500 range and do not mind if they are used. The clubs I have found in this range include Nike CCis (forged), Bridgestone J36 (are all the clubs in that set forged?), MP 57s and MP 60s. Thoughts on those or other options?

Posted
I have the MP 57s, and although I have not hit the 58s, I can tell you that I love these irons. I was around a 15 when I got the Mizunos and I've dropped about 10 shots off my handicap. I would recommend not splitting up the set (personal preference). I really think the players irons helped me focus on my ball striking and have made me a much better player.

910 D3 - RIP X
910F 15* - RIP X
Idea Pro Gold Hybrid 18* - Matrix Ozik
MP-68 3-PW - TTDG X100
Vokey Spin Milled 52* - Project X 6.0 Vokey Spin Milled 58* - Project X 6.0

Scotty Cameron Newport 2 

ProV1x


Posted
Buying the MP58's by the club comes out to about $120 per club. ... plus that's custom fit. Why don't you get PW-8 and then buy the others as you come up with more money ... or you can do this with any other set too .. you don't always have to buy the full set .. most of the time, a player shouldnt be hitting the 3 or 4i anyway.

or at least go to GG and get on the mizuno shaft optimizer to see what fits your style. that's freeeeee

2010 Staff Bag
2010 S2 Driver - Stiff - (-.5")
2010 S2 3 Wood - Stiff
2010 Baffler TWS Hybrids 3 & 4
2010 MP-58 5-PW Irons - (+.5") 2010 MP-T10 Black Satin 52° - 56° - 60° - (+.5") 2009 Black Carbon 2 Putter Winn Grip e6Photos of my bag Golf Galaxy Wisconsin Amateur Tour PlayerGolf...


Posted
I have used the shaft optimizer. I posted about that a couple days before this post. I think that you guys are probably right, I don't think I will split up any of the sets. Any thoughts on the other irons i mentioned?

Posted
As a 22 handicapper I am not sure why you are focused on forged irons at this point.. and talking about working the ball? Can you really hit a fade or a draw on demand consistently? If so you must have an atrocious short game or driving game :) Not trying to be a jerk but most 22 Handicappers should be looking at a good set of game improvement irons IMHO. Hell I am a 4 and thing about hitting game improvement irons, and I can hit a fade on demand about 1 in 4 tries. You should really be working on being able to consistently hit a single type of shot over and over again. By trying to "work" the ball you are probably doing more harm than good at this point. If you focus on hitting a consitent 5 yard draw or fade you will see your handicap drop much quicker than worrying about working the ball in both directions. IMHO YMMV

Lightweight Cart Bag
Scotty Cameron Putter (several models unfortunately)studio stock 4
AP2 Irons 4-PW
ProV1X Balls
2 and 3 TP Rescue07 Burner TP 9.560, 56, 52 CG 12 WedgesOld man CartSi vis pacem, para bellum


Posted
As a 22 handicapper I am not sure why you are focused on forged irons at this point.. and talking about working the ball? Can you really hit a fade or a draw on demand consistently? If so you must have an atrocious short game or driving game :) Not trying to be a jerk but most 22 Handicappers should be looking at a good set of game improvement irons IMHO. Hell I am a 4 and thing about hitting game improvement irons, and I can hit a fade on demand about 1 in 4 tries. You should really be working on being able to consistently hit a single type of shot over and over again. By trying to "work" the ball you are probably doing more harm than good at this point. If you focus on hitting a consitent 5 yard draw or fade you will see your handicap drop much quicker than worrying about working the ball in both directions. IMHO YMMV

Now it is my turn to not be a jerk...just kidding, but if you read the thread, I am not focused on working the ball but would like a club that I could eventually be able to do that with. I liked the feel of the forged clubs over steel so I demoed the 52s and 58s on the course and hit both straight, sometimes with a slight draw (5 yards) and consistently (between 165 and 170). I do not have an actual handicap, it is merely a guess since I have only golfed about 20-30 rounds of golf over the past year and a half since I started golfing. I do not putt well which is part of the reason I guessed a 22 handicap. Also I have a $30 driver that I am learning with and only hit about 240 yards, so i would assume if I was able to up my distance and consistency off the tee I would also have a lower handicap. Sorry if that was kind of a rant, but I want everyone to understand why I am looking at the clubs I am looking at...basically they felt awesome and I hit them well.


Posted
So I figured with my handicap I shouldn't even bother with the MP line, but after hitting both I am torn between which to buy and will likely mix the set (52s for 3-5 and 58s for 6-pw). I was hitting both demo 6 irons with a stiff shaft between 160 and 170 yards. I spend my entire round hitting the two, trying to decide if I liked either and if so, which. Turns out it went right down to the 18th hole. I sat 2 balls down about 160 away from the front of the green. I hit the mp52 onto the right side of the green (about 15-20 feet from the pin), then I hit the mp58 with a slight draw just off the left side of the green. Identical distances and even though the mp58 shot landed just off the green it was actually a little closer to the pin.

if you did mixed set, youd want the 58's for the longer irons. they have a tiny bit more off set and i guess you could say more forgiving that 52's.

:cobra: Speed ld-f 10.5 Stiff
:snake_eyes: 3 & 5 Woods
:adams:A4 3 hybrid
:bridgestone: J33 Forged Irons 4-pw
:ping: 50th Aniv. Karsten Ansr Putter56*, 60* wedges


Posted
the 58s are less forgiving than the 52s. They have a smaller cavity, and according to Mizuno are for lower handicap players. You are, however, correct about the offset.

Note: This thread is 5740 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. 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    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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