Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5739 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
and I have never hit a fade until yesterday and today at the range. My "straight shot" is a high draw with the occasional duck hook, pull hook, and block push. The last couple of days at the range my shots have been alternating between fades and draws.

Now before anyone says something about needing to see a video of my swing first, I am just curious as to what causes a Fade, other than the obvious out-to-in swing. I have always struggled with a hook so I have never bothered to read about what causes slices.

I have a strong grip and my setup isn't changing other than possibly playing the ball to far forward. I usually try to limit my back swing to just short of parallel and it is usually a little laid off. If my club shaft is pointing to the right of my target line at the top of the backswing, will this cause an out to in swing path?

Also with my driver I am hitting some big push fades. I tee the ball even with my left foot which I know is too far forward, but would this cause a push fade. Thanks.

Tools of the Trade
Burner Driver. 9.5 Loft. Stiff Shaft

Pro CB Irons, 3-PW, Stiff Shaft
SV Tour Wedges: 52,56,60


Posted
Fades are cause by imparting side spin on the ball. Pushes are caused by having your swing path coming from the inside to outside which pushes the ball. The fade portion of the shot is caused by the side spin so your most likely not squaring the club up at impact and imparting a little side spin.

Since you say you normally hit the ball with a slight draw your swing path is probably very rounded. The problem with this is that your timing has to be VERY good to square and release the club through impact to hit it straight. If you don't, you'll hit push fades, if you over compensate, you'll hit duck hooks. The ball position will not really change things so I would focus on swinging back and into the ball on straighter lines to eliminate using your hands to release and square the club.

Posted
You're probably a fairly handsy player like me and rely on a good bit of feel and timing to square the clubface at impact after a relatively flat backswing. The slice/push is probably a result of getting the club stuck behind. I've been working on bringing the club back along the target line with the driver to make sure I'm getting good extension on the proper swing plane. From that point on your hands don't really have to do much to keep the ball straight. Just make sure that the butt of the club is pointing down the target line and your arms are fully extended at the midpoint of your backswing and you should be fine. You might actually pick up some easy distance, too.

Posted
I am definitely a "handsy player". One of my biggest problems is hitting half shots. Even with a half swing, I hit my 56 SW over 100 yards. I know I have alot of wrist action in my swing, but that is also the reason I can hit 270-280 yard drives, and 210 yard 5 irons, so I am afraid to change it.

Tools of the Trade
Burner Driver. 9.5 Loft. Stiff Shaft

Pro CB Irons, 3-PW, Stiff Shaft
SV Tour Wedges: 52,56,60


Posted
No way you can create that much power with hands only, you really have to get some serious rotation speed as well. Because its rotation that drives the swing, your hands can add on more power to it.

If you originally hit draws or a straight ball, the fade. whats happening is you are loosing your timing with your hands. Your either holding onto the release to much fading the ball or your releasing it to soon and pulling the ball.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
.........If my club shaft is pointing to the right of my target line at the top of the backswing, will this cause an out to in swing path?

At the top, I think when you're pointed to the right of the target line, it can lead to an out to inside swing path (someone please confirm that). I have this issue as well.

Sometimes I tee the ball in the middle of left shoe. So I agree that it's a little too far forward. It depends on my timing that day. Here's another thing to think about. I notice you're using a Burner. I have an '09 which is a little too long (46.25") and use every inch of it. Since the club is so long, I end up teeing the ball pretty forward to compensate. When I do this, my shoulders open up at address. This gets me into the out to inside swing path. I catch myself from time to time when I'm hitting some big push fades.

'09 Burner (UST ProForce V2 77g - S)
4dx 15.5 hybrid (UST V2 - Stiff)
'99 Apex Plus 3-EW (Stiff)
TM rac 50/6 GW
Arnold Palmer The Standard SW (20-30 years old)'99 Dual Rossie Blade


Posted
Yeah, I choke up an inch or two on the Burner, that shaft is way too long, But i do notice my shoulder alignment gets way to open with my driver swing. I hit about 1 or 2 big push fades that go about 45 degrees away from the target line.

Tools of the Trade
Burner Driver. 9.5 Loft. Stiff Shaft

Pro CB Irons, 3-PW, Stiff Shaft
SV Tour Wedges: 52,56,60


Posted
Yeah, I choke up an inch or two on the Burner, that shaft is way too long, But i do notice my shoulder alignment gets way to open with my driver swing. I hit about 1 or 2 big push fades that go about 45 degrees away from the target line.

I've had this problem. The Driver Push Fade is my sworn enemy. (I don't think too far -forward- could cause a PF. If anything, I think that'd promote a pull unless you're chicken-winging something fierce. Looking at my handicap, though, I could be drastically wrong. :D)

As far as the open shoulders with forward ball position thing goes... Someone very recently posted a relevant video that I experimented with at the range, today. I'd cite the thread itself if I could remember where I saw it. The idea was basically when you stepped back into your setup with the ball in a good forward heel position, and then set your club up to the ball, that would cause your shoulders to open. The drill involved setting up a tee further back and setting up your address position to THAT (And then keeping your head behind that position to encourage a slightly ascending blow). I'm probably describing it poorly, but I'm sure somebody else will remember what the hell I'm talking about. *heh*

Currently in my bag:  Under Revision


Posted
I am definitely a "handsy player". One of my biggest problems is hitting half shots. Even with a half swing, I hit my 56 SW over 100 yards. I know I have alot of wrist action in my swing, but that is also the reason I can hit 270-280 yard drives, and 210 yard 5 irons, so I am afraid to change it.

If you're hitting 100 yard half SWs, then that's not a half swing.

Note that your hands aren't really creating extra power under the 'handsy hypothesis'. They're just doing extra work as your mechanism to square the clubface at impact. You'll still create the same power with an on-plane backswing. You'll just find it more consistent and easier to control.

Posted
Well maybe he is just use to overswinging. I know that i have to work on my overswinging and to do it i have to think 3/4th shots. so to me my 3/4th swing thought is parallel. Because i have been overswinging for about 10 years.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Yeah, I choke up an inch or two on the Burner, that shaft is way too long, But i do notice my shoulder alignment gets way to open with my driver swing. I hit about 1 or 2 big push fades that go about 45 degrees away from the target line.

If your shoulders get too open, the swing path will follow, resulting in the big push fade. When I remember to check my shoulder alignment, I have better success. Also, the stock stiff shaft isn't too stiff. I think it's a factor to think about. I'm going to start choking up on it first before I start cutting it down or swapping out the shaft all together.

Travtex, I think you're thinking of the "Get rid of that slice!" thread where the guy puts the dummy tee in the ground and talks about his shirt buttons. Pretty good video which explains some ideas. I don't agree with the ascending blow.

'09 Burner (UST ProForce V2 77g - S)
4dx 15.5 hybrid (UST V2 - Stiff)
'99 Apex Plus 3-EW (Stiff)
TM rac 50/6 GW
Arnold Palmer The Standard SW (20-30 years old)'99 Dual Rossie Blade


Note: This thread is 5739 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • For someone with a very consistent swing speed and ball strike, upgrades may improve performance. For everyday golfers, probably not. I'm a rather odd player. I usually get best performance from basic pro or tour heads, but with lighter stock shaft from the model's standard driver set up. (Yes, current EXS is an exception.) When I get a full driver fitting, I usually try a couple of modest upgrade  (not super magic) shafts. Most of the time upgrade gives a couple of extra yards, or 10 yards less. Remember this about stock shafts: They are matched to a particular driver model to fit the type of player likely to adopt that model. Also, most OEMs offer a variety of stock shafts in their drivers. Test for which one works best. And, the final decider...  
    • Uh, seeing you're having trouble with hit-and-miss performance from inherited clubs... Get Fitted! IF the 910H pair don't work, swap them out. Also, only two degrees separation in loft is not much. You might consider a 4W (much more reliable than a 3W) plus hybrid. This would give more distance separation than two Hs. For hybrid, get one you can hit... Maybe a more benevolent 4H. Quite often I try to brand match my bridge clubs (FWs and Hs), and my irons and wedges... but not always. Whatever works!
    • Like others have said, get fitted. Since 2011, I have played some combination of 4W + 7W. I had a Cobra 3H and 4H a couple of years back, and would swap out the 7W for a 3H in cold months (keep out of cold wind, and rough thinner for wayward drives.) The 7W matched up with yardage often with 3H; the current 4H goes almost as long as 7W, but has a lower trajectory. 4H also bumped out 4i in last bag redo; I learned to hit stinger with 4H so that's my driving iron on tight holes with shallow landing area. Again, a side-by-side test will tell you which way to go. If 5W or 3H is meh, keep the 7W. Also, are you looking to replace the 7W with a 5W or 3H, or add a second bridge club (5W or 3H) to your bag?
    • Makes sense and aligns with other literature. Static stretching, especially for longer durations, can impede performance in strength and power activities. I would not want to do like hamstring, quad, and calf stretches then go immediately sprint. To me that sounds like a terrible Idea. I would rather start off walking, then jogging, then running, then ramp up to sprinting.  To me, static stretching isn't even a warmup activity. I like the term warmup; you want to get some exertion going before the activity.      a { text-decoration: none; color: #464feb; } tr th, tr td { border: 1px solid #e6e6e6; } tr th { background-color: #f5f5f5; }
    • Going to Florida for the usual February golf trip, and with our current weather, that date won't get here soon enough. Heading to Augusta GA for the Tuesday Master's practice round, will definitely get some golf in while I'm in the area for a few days. Hope to be able to catch up with @coachjimsc if he's around. Then it's back to Scotland first of July.  Playing 7 new courses, can't wait for that.  Then somewhere after that is the Rhode Island CC Member-Guest and then my normal October golf trip to Myrtle Beach.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.