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Posted
Which 3+ are you using? I'd like to add one, and end up hitting my 16* hybrid as a safety club.

It's old school. It's the Cleveland Quad Pro, 13 degrees. A really good club. Probably 10 to 15 years old.


Posted
What i meant to say was no problem

Based on your handicap I figured you either dropped a word or that your "problem shots" were on the wrong side of the pin.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
Based on your handicap I figured you either dropped a word or that your "problem shots" were on the wrong side of the pin.

My thought process is get the ball in play off the tee period! That's step one in playing a hole. Nothing will kill a score quicker than hitting it out of play. My 3 wood has a low boring flight that rarely is in trouble. My driver tends to go higher and if wind in involved, it's more risky. Dependent on the course my 13 degree normally works just fine.

I WISH from 250+ I could choose what side of the pin I was on :)

Posted
Instead of running out and buying one, Play golf with someone that allready owns one and use theirs. Thats the best way to find out if you,ll really want to make the splurge and save yourself some money. I use mine ALOT. And would,nt want to be without one.

In My Cart Bag R 5 XL Driver Rescue Mid #3-19* 3,7 F50 Fairway Woods CG 4 , 4-PW irons all Reg Flex. MP-T 56* 60* wedges Anser G2 Putter. AD333. DT SoLo Balls ..


Posted
My highest lofted club is a *54 SW, and if that isn't bad enough it's part of my iron set!

Same here. I bump and run it whenever I can, it's just more consistent for me.

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  • Posts

    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
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    • Wordle 1,789 4/6* ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟨🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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