Difference in irons.....?

[Varsity_Golf]

I've been looking at getting a new set of irons for next year, and I've been wondering something, so maybe you could help me out. What is the difference (as far as feel, distance, and shot) between irons that have a "Cavity" as most do on th back, and ones that don't, like these ones that I have been looking at http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/pr...074790.4074793

Anything? Thanks,

Varsity_Golf

[SeanMcFarlin]

Well the TW Blades are much more playable than thick sole of a cavity such as when you need to chip with a short iron. A thick sole can make it an awkward feeling while chipping with them Blades are also a lot less forgiving thus making them more workable enabling you to hit draws and fades on q. Most cavity backs use the cavity to distribute weight so they are more stable at impact. Hope that helped!

[max power]

"Workability" is probably the most overused and overrated word in golf in regards to blade irons. You (and me and the vast majority of golfers) have a long, long way to go before we start worrying about workability. I'm not knocking blades, 2 of my 3 sets are half muscleback. But I think my ballstriking was consistent enough for blades only when I got into single digits. Apparently the TW VR blades are much more forgiving than most muscleback irons, so they may be great for you. But I'd certainly hit them first, and take a look at some cavity backs and player's cavity backs before dropping nearly a grand on blades.

[scooter99]

How does a club like a blade, split back, or cavity back make that much difference on the ball striking? I've been golfing a while and while, about 10 years,and while not serious about it for that long, I've recently decided to take a more concentrated approach to the game. I can drive and am learing about draw and fade, but I've never had a great set of irons. They've all been cavity backs or a beginner set. I guess anyway, my only two sets of clubs I've ever had have been a set of Nickents and a set of the first sling shots. I've been recently looking for new irons because I let my brother have the slingshots cause they didn't feel to good to me, and like I said I've had the Nikent's for about 8 or 9 years.

So I've been looking at the Nike VR splitbacks and the TW blades. So here's I guess my real question. I can move the Nickent's very well, I can get within about 40 to 50 feet of a target constantly with my 5 thru PW and of course closer to the target the closer I am wiht the pw. So as a golfer who's going to become more serious and even possibly get lessons very soon, is it easier to go with a bladed iron and adjust your game, or perfect it which I hate using in golf cause you're never going to perfect you game in golf, to the blades or do you make it easier and go with the split backs and make it easier on your self. I ask this cause I really want to learn and if I can learn better playing with a better iron then I'll be that much better down the line with some work. I plan that these next irons will last me a good 8 to 10 years or more.

I'd love to hear some input on this.

BTW I'm a newbie and so I'm trying to get some input on some stuff as well as get my posts in to start my own thread. Thanks!

[max power]

Whether a set of irons is crappy, good, or great has nothing to do with them being blades or cavity backs. Neither club will magically make your bad shots good or your good shots better-a proper swing is required either way. Cavity backs don't penalize you as much for off-center hits, and most amateurs-particularly high handicappers, don't hit the sweet spot very often. Most pros play some form of cavity back.

I don't recommend buying a set of blades at a 36 handicap. That doesn't mean it can't be done, but you will get discouraged. If you want these to last 8 to 10 years then look at a nice set of CBs or player's CBs-the Nike VR splitbacks is a good place to start, Mizuno MX-200 or MX-300, Titleist AP1 or AP2, the Adams Pro Black CBs, even the Callaway X-Forged-all are great clubs that you can learn and grow with.

[kafka01]

I´m with maxpower on this one, if a 20hcp wants to play blades for workability i just have to laugh. Dont get me wrong, i´m not saying you shouldnt get them, but you should be realistic, that it will be a challenge and despite the fact that modern blades are more forgiving than the old style blades, you should only get them if you are serious about the game, have lots of time to practice and want to have feedback - on your bad shots, instead of having a sweetspot basically all over the face, basically just telling you that you hit the ball 4inches fat cuz your club just dug into the ground. And you need solid fundamentals in your swing, or plan on developing them, otherwise you will hate yourself every single shot you´ll take with them.

Mishits on blades generally will be really short - e.g. i hit my 7i around 150m, if i mishit (i dont talk about fat/thin, stuff like clubhead throwaway, insufficent shaft stressing...) they can be as short as 120m.
If i mishit my CBs they tend to have more distance (+10-15m).

[max power]

I´m with maxpower on this one, if a 20hcp wants to play blades for workability i just have to laugh. Dont get me wrong, i´m not saying you shouldnt get them, but you should be realistic, that it will be a challenge and despite the fact that modern blades are more forgiving than the old style blades, you should only get them if you are serious about the game, have lots of time to practice and want to have feedback - on your bad shots, instead of having a sweetspot basically all over the face, basically just telling you that you hit the ball 4inches fat cuz your club just dug into the ground. And you need solid fundamentals in your swing, or plan on developing them, otherwise you will hate yourself every single shot you´ll take with them.

This is all true-even now I have days where something is a tiny bit off in my swing and blades are a bad idea. A few weeks ago I went to the range and only brought a set of Titleist blades. Only swing that was really on that day was the driver swing, and by the end of the session my hands and wrists were sore from the crappy shots I hit with the blades and I was sick and tired of golf. Even on days where the swing feels great mishits are far more noticeable (distance) with a muscleback. Distance control is probably the single most important aspect of ballstriking, and blades leave very, very little margin for error.

It's your money, so ultimately only your opinion matters as to how to spend it. But if you have the goal of actually getting better, and still want to play blades at some point, set a reasonable handicap target, then get some blades as a reward. IMO, somewhere along the lines of a 12 or 13 index is a reasonable target. If you are committed enough to golf/practice to get down from a 36, or 20, 18, etc. to a 12 then by all means trade in whatever you have and give blades a go. You'll probably want new clubs by then anyway!

[Varsity_Golf]

Ok thanks guys. Think I am going to go with some cavity ones for my next set, but I still may try them just to see. Any suggestions of irons that you have used that you found to be good?

Varsity_Golf

[max power]

Ok thanks guys. Think I am going to go with some cavity ones for my next set, but I still may try them just to see. Any suggestions of irons that you have used that you found to be good?

Of the ones I listed my favorites are the MX-200/300 or the Callaway X-Forged. Can be had for $600-$800 new.

The MX-200s and 300s are Game Improvement Cavity Backs, but unlike any other I've ever tried. They are forged, and feel fantastic-letting you know you've mishit without punishing you all that much. The also have a very aggressive sole grind that allows for all different types of shots. I tried out all sorts of iron sets a few months ago and came home with the MX-200s, to date my lowest score (even par 72) was shot with the Mizunos.

[kris]

I'm also kicking around the idea of acquiring some new irons and I think a set of cavity irons might do the trick for me as well. I'm assuming the irons that max power mentioned in post 5 are good clubs. Any other suggestions for a quality set of cavity irons?

[double_j]

Honestly, you'll find as many different answers to this question as there are members here.

All of the major brands have cavity back clubs and all are perfectly good clubs. You won't go wrong with any of them. It's more important that you hit different clubs side by side before you buy to see if you hit one better than another or otherwise have a preference. Also, go to a quality golf retailer. They'll be able to check out your swing and recommend the appropriate shaft flex, etc.

I just started playing the Titleist AP2 and love them. Used Taylor made before this and those were great, too.

And yes, blades are fairly unnecessary nowadays. Technology has gotten to the point where cb clubs are fairly close feel and shot making-wide with much greater levels of forgiveness.

[The Road Dog]

Varsity, some folks say blades are too hard for new golfers to hit well. But I say go try them and see if they work for you. If you are taking regular lessons there is no reason why you couldn't play blades. I'm no pro but I love the feel of a blade(learned to play with them), I tried cavity backs last year and immediately went back to blades. Don't let others sense of difficulty limit your possibilities without exploring it for yourself. Develop a good swing and go for it.

[jamo]

1 word: Mizuno. Either the MX 200 or MX 300 would be a great choice.

[ffmiles26]

i started golfing this spring with cheap maxfli dicks cavity backs. and i really just fell in love with golf. i knew i was going to play a lot of golf and stick with it. my lil brother needed clibs and was short on change so i started looking for a decent set and would give him mine. i found a set of mizuno mp-52s on craigslist for 250 bucks. i was very tentative to go with such a non forgiving club but i figured, hey itll let me know when i hit it wrong. im new and my only concern is getitng better. these clubs have helped me. instead of covering up the mishit, they let me know i mishit it. like a slap on the wrist when your a kid. it sort of forced me into becoming a better ballstriker, cuz if i do not hit it right they tell me. and my handicap shows my improvement with them. i only have about 20 rounds under my belt since i started in april, but since i got these clubs my hc has dropped from a 24-18.6. just my two cents its probably the stubborn polark in me having to do it the hard way

my suggestion would be def check out craiglist. in the last few days ive seen three sets of name brand new line clubs with less than ten rounds on them for over 50% off retail. but hit them in the store first!

[max power]

1 word: Mizuno. Either the MX 200 or MX 300 would be a great choice.

As usual this guy knows his stuff.

[trickymicky69]

Of the ones I listed my favorites are the MX-200/300 or the Callaway X-Forged. Can be had for $600-$800 new.

I had Mx200 and thought the sole grind wasn't enough?

I traded them in for MP57's and actually score better with them I agree that blades are probably a step to far but there is also something to be said for buying clubs you like to look at as its good for your confidence

[max power]

I had Mx200 and thought the sole grind wasn't enough?

Sometimes I look down at Macgregor blades that contain a tiny bit of onset, sometimes I look down at the MX-200s. They both make me feel confident. I may play the blades on a day/course where I need a little more height control, or when it just seems like fun-I may play the Mizunos on they day I need more carry, a little less wrist vibration, or just want to rocket my irons off into the stratosphere. They both look sharp, and I guarantee that a few swings with the easiest 23* 4 iron you've ever hit will instill a lot of confidence quickly. Additonally, the wider portion of the Mizunos is barely visible at address-nice toplines, and an aggressive sole grind-I'm really good at taking full, aggressive shots at the green with these out of decently thick rough. They're still listed $699 most place, but can be found for $599, and I'm sure you could talk a salesman down to $599 regardless.

[ks8829]

Another option would be to see if they offer a combo set of blades and cavities irons. You can play blades from PW - 8 irons and cavities from 7-3 irons.

The blades gives you more feedback but are less forgiving especially on your longer irons. I would go to your local golf store and get the most experience fitter and try hitting both cavity and blades to see what fits your game and try the combo set also.