Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5769 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I'm thinking about having my Taylormade SuperFast 9.5* cut to 45".
Should I have it cut from the grip end or the tip?


  DLX cart bag...white/red

  R1
913F 15*

 913H 19*

 G25s 4 iron - U wedge

 CG 14 Black Pearl 56* -  60*

... KOMBI 35" 

...ProV1

.

.

.


Posted
Trim from the butt end. If you trim from the tip it will change the shafts flex(stiffer). Both might change your swing weight if that matters to you.

Srixon Z-RW 8.5* Matrix XCON 6
Callaway Steelhead Plus 15* Rifle 7.0
Cleveland Halo Hybrid 19*
MacGrecor Pro-C Forged 3-PW Rife 6.5
Cleveland Wedges 53* 58*YES! Tracy


Posted
Thanks, Wiley
That does make sense.


  DLX cart bag...white/red

  R1
913F 15*

 913H 19*

 G25s 4 iron - U wedge

 CG 14 Black Pearl 56* -  60*

... KOMBI 35" 

...ProV1

.

.

.


Posted
DIY

Dremel Tool w/ fiberglass cut wheel. Regrip with Winn Lite.

driver: FT-i tlcg 9.5˚ (Matrix Ozik XCONN Stiff)
4 wood: G10 (ProLaunch Red FW stiff)
3 -PW: :Titleist: 695 mb (Rifle flighted 6.0)
wedges:, 52˚, 56˚, 60˚
putter: Studio Select Newport 1.5


Posted
My 9015D plays a little soft so if I cut it down from the tip about an inch will make it slightly stiffer. Do I need to add weight to the head?

« Keith »


Posted
In general cutting from the tip will stiffen the shaft, but beware there are lots of shafts that have a 4" parrallel tip, and cutting let's say 0.5" or 1.0" will hardly stiffen the shaft. Adding weight to compensate the reduced swingweight, might easely ruin the balance in the head. And a lighter swingweight might lead to a slightly higher swingspeed, which compensates for the shorter shaft, so I wouldn't bother too much.

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter


Note: This thread is 5769 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.