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Posted
PineMeadow or GigaGolf.

Can get them custom fit and brand new...

Posted
A set in "Very Good" or better condition from 3balls.com. I've ordered 3 sets of irons, a wedge, a 3 wood, and a putter. All arrived in even better condition than they were described.

Posted
Your username is Taylormade fan, so if you have any bias you could look at the r7s or RACs. They are both good sets that can be found for a good price.

Posted
You can find Callaway X20s, TM R7s, and Wilson Ci7s in that price range right now, new in box. Check Ebay, Adams A7 sets are going for $330 new, and that includes two very good hybrids.

If you go used, you'll be able to get just about anything out there. I just picked up a set of nice R7 TPs for $285 shipped.

Driver: i15 8* UST Axivcore Red 69S
3w: CB1 15* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum 75s
5w: G10 18.5* UST V2 HL
3h: HiFli CLK 20* UST V2 Hybrid
4h: 3DX 23* UST V2 Hybrid5i-pw: MX-23 TT Dynalite Gold S300GW/SW: RAC 52*and 56*Putter: SabertoothBag: KingPin


Posted
A set in "Very Good" or better condition from 3balls.com. I've ordered 3 sets of irons, a wedge, a 3 wood, and a putter. All arrived in even better condition than they were described.

I second that. I've bought two putters and a driver from 3balls.com and was satisfied with each transaction. They also gave me a free one year subscription to Golf Digest when I bought the driver.

My Implements of Destruction (carried in a Hoofer Lite bag):

DRIVER: Big Bertha Diablo 10 degree draw, Aldila regular flex
FAIRWAY WOODS: G2 14 degree 3 wood & 17 degree 5 wood
IRONS: S59 3-PWWEDGES: M/B 54, 58, & 60 degree PUTTER: I Series Anser 4 (or G5i Anser, Anser 2F, or original...

Posted
PineMeadow or GigaGolf.

Hireko Golf is also good for same reasons as above. Acer and Dynacraft are their brands and are quality clubheads.

What's in my bag (most of the time)

Exotics 12°, Aldila VS Proto 65S
Exotics CB1 4W, 16.5°, Fujikura Stiff
3DX DC Ironwood 20°, 23°, 26º Hybrids, Proforce V2 Stiff Acer XP905 Pro 6-PW, Dynalite Gold S300Inazone CNC Spin Satin GW 50°/8°, SW 54°/14°, LW 58°/4°Boccieri...


Posted
Another vote for 3balls.com! I ordered a Cleveland 588 Wedge in "Good" condition and it was better than expected! And for only $19.

Driver - Cobra S3 9.5* - Mitsubishi Rayon JavlnFX M7 
Fwy - Titleist 904F 18*
Irons - Mizuno MP-14
Wedges - Cleveland 588 54*, Ping Tour 58*
Putter - Ping D66 (iWi)

 


Posted
Hireko Golf is also good for same reasons as above. Acer and Dynacraft are their brands and are quality clubheads.

2nd that. I love my Acer XKs (2009 Golf Digest Value Bag Irons)


Posted
I recently purchased a set of Cobra SZ irons 4-GW. $300 at TGW I have shaved several strokes off my game with these irons. I get the ball up easily and they fly straight even on miss hits! Great reviews, If your gonna hit some clubs don't buy until you hit these!

Note: This thread is 5763 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
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