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Posted

I've been struggling with the shanks for about 2 years. Even when I'm playing well I usually see one rear its ugly head per round. Its something that's been driving me totally crazy. Even when I shoot good scores, if I shank in a round it destroys my joy. Anyways as you can imagine i've been trying to figure it out for a while now. So here it is. Setup. Setup. Setup. When I shank its because I'm unknowingly setting up with my shoulders open to the target, causing me to have a crappy shoulder turn, which leads to more of an upright swing that inevitably goes over the top and results in a hosel rocket. So if you have been struggling with the shanks and can't figure it out. Check out your setup. Make sure you shoulders line up with your feet and hips. If not then you are forced to make huge compensations.

TaylorMade R11S TP Blur 60 X
TayloreMade R11S TP Blur 70 X

Titleist 910H 21&24
Miura Tournament Blades 5-PW DGX100 Tour Issue
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Miura Black Wedge 56, 60
Newport 2 Teryllium Ten

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Posted

We discussed the dreaded shanks in a thread a few weeks ago.  After about 120 balls at the range I can get hit by the shanks in heart beat.  I have zero idea why.  On the course I shank maybe 1 out of 500 shots.  I have zero idea why : )

I'm not waiting for the shanks to try your theory.  I'm going to try this tomorrow on the range.  I'm going to setup as you state and see what happens.  I'm hoping that a shank will result as this would help me alot when they rear their ugly heads.

Driver Callaway Diablo Edge --- Custom Sonartec 3, 5 and 7 woods made +1" stiff shafts --- Irons 5-L Ping G10 +1" 4.5* upright reg shafts --- ---Putter Tiger Shark


Posted

I've gone through a few periods of shanks myself, and I still hit a few if my concentration wavers. I'll tell you what helps me the most. I think I understand the reasons why they happen in my swing, cuz it feels like I went through hell and back to find out. This helps me when they rear their ugly head, so that I can get back on track immediately. Nothing is worse than that feeling in the middle of a good round, so I say embrace it when it comes at the range, and take lessons and study to find out why. The mystery is gone for me, so I dont have to panic when it happens again.

Titleist 910D2 8.5° Diamana 'ahina 80 S
Titleist 909F3 3W 13° Diamana D83 S, Titleist 910f 5W 19° Fubuki Ax 80X
Taylormade RAC MB TP 3-PW Irons DG S300, Callaway Jaws 54° and 60°
Titleist Futura putter, Taylormade TP5 balls


Posted

I "think" my shanks occur because I leave the club face "square" (don't know if this is the right term) in the backswing and it just screws up everything at impact.

I will admit that I know nothing about all the things people say about, spine angle, flying elbows, rotating this and that, sliding here and there, angling the forearm at this angle and blah, blah blah.....   I just setup and use as simple a backswing as I can, accelerate nice and smooth and .....................PLAY GOLF!!

As far as the shanks are concerned they scare the poopoo out of me when they hit me.  So I'm headed to the range tomorrow o try and reproduce a shankable swing.  I learn more from an intentional bad swing then I do an unintentional great swing : )

Driver Callaway Diablo Edge --- Custom Sonartec 3, 5 and 7 woods made +1" stiff shafts --- Irons 5-L Ping G10 +1" 4.5* upright reg shafts --- ---Putter Tiger Shark


Posted


Originally Posted by 596

I "think" my shanks occur because I leave the club face "square" (don't know if this is the right term) in the backswing and it just screws up everything at impact.



Leaving the clubface square? Isn't a shank caused by hitting the ball with the hosel which to me, means that you are turning and "moving towards the ball" on the downswing which can either cause casting promoting the hosel hit or reducing the distance betwen you and ball which also can cause the hosel hit.

The fix in my mind would be to ensure that slide your hips towards the target which can be accomplished by having your right knee (if you are a righty) move towards the target on the downswing.  Your right foot should roll to it's inseam vs. lifting onto the toes.

This will get your body into a nice position on the front foot, keep the shaft on plane and prevent the hosel hit.

Deryck Griffith

Titleist 910 D3: 9.5deg GD Tour AD DI7x | Nike Dymo 3W: 15deg, UST S-flex | Mizuno MP CLK Hybrid: 20deg, Project X Tour Issue 6.5, HC1 Shaft | Mizuno MP-57 4-PW, DG X100 Shaft, 1deg upright | Cleveland CG15 Wedges: 52, 56, 60deg | Scotty Cameron California Del Mar | TaylorMade Penta, TP Black LDP, Nike 20XI-X


Note: This thread is 5621 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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