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Posted

I saw one at a Dick's and really liked the idea, but the $80 price tag seemed way too steep.  So I set about trying to make my own.  Here's what I came up with:

Materials: one 1/2" thick, 2x4 sheet of MDF, one section of primed MDF baseboard

My first idea was to actually rout out a groove to put the baseboard in, but MDF is a real bitch on a router bit, and setting up a guide fence to do the curved part was going to be a challenge.  The advantage would have been, pop the baseboard out, store the thing flat somewhere, pop back in when needed.  Alas, I had to go the low-tech way and screw it in place.

In order to assist with all things alignment-related, I first used a T-square, and covered the board in perpendicular grid lines.  Next, via trial and error, decided how much of the guide would be straight, how much the bend should be, where ball would be placed, etc...  I drilled four small holes from which the straight portion of the guide would be screwed in from the underside.  One screw would be at the very front, another screw would be placed at the point at which I wanted the guide to start curving, and then two in the middle.  For the curve, it was just a matter of placing a screw as a "post" at the necessary point.  Some pictures:

You can see my attempted router scar!  The putting cup is the No Bogey cup.

Here you can a spot marked where my putter starts.  I place my putter just behind the line so I can check to see it's parallel to the line (square to the target).  This also gives you a good idea of where the curve starts.  My putter starts at the X, so a very short stroke would be square-to-square (FYI, the grid lines are about 2" apart).  Any farther back, and it takes you inside slightly.

Another view.

This shot gives you a good idea of how much curve there is.  The putter starts about 12" from the back edge, and at that point, the guide is about 1/2" off the target line.  I should have just bought the real IDL and used it as a template, but in looking at some pictures, this looks pretty close, and doesn't feel too extreme.  It does feel a little unusual, but I think that's because I definitely didn't have an IDL stroke, so it should feel a little odd, right?  The curvature is easy enough to adjust by simply moving that post screw, if I decide I need to.

Here's a pic of the real deal I found online that has a good view of the curvature.  I think mine is a decent match.

Lastly, not shown, I laid several strips of packing tape on the baseboard to make the putter head glide a bit more easily and prevent marking up my putter.

How I use it: Right now, it has only one use: extremely short putts, and MDF rolls about a 15 on the stimp!  I'm trying to decide if I can mock up some sort of "hill" so that I can strike it more firmly (it goes right through my putting cup with any speed).  I could also put up some sort of backboard, or a PVC pipe with an endcap...various things.  The bigger question is, do I now just cut away all the perimeter, leaving something that looks like the original, just a strip of board with a curved guide on it?  I could bring that anywhere, but then I lose all of the alignment grid.  Heck, now that I've done it once, maybe I cut this one to have as a portable device, and just make another to use in-home to just work on stroke-alignment?  Regardless, I think what I have will definitely help my stroke during this lousy winter we're having.  Cheers!

Nothing in the swing is done at the expense of balance.


Posted

Good Job! Way to go! I don't think there is enough room for slope but the "elevated" cup promotes a firmer putt. That's perfect. Short putts are just as important as long ones. Well done!!


Posted

Could you take a 2x4 and cut it to the desired curve with a jig saw or bandsaw??

PB
Canadian PGA Life Member
Peter Boyce Golf Academy
Strathroy, Ontario
:tmade:


Posted


Quote:

Could you take a 2x4 and cut it to the desired curve with a jig saw or bandsaw??

I thought about that, but you'd really need to get the curve perfect, as the heel of your putter would feel any hiccup or bump in the line.  That's where I mostly thought, screw it, I'd buy the real thing, clamp that down, and either use it for a fence for my jigsaw, or better, rough cut with a bandsaw and then use a flush-cut router bit with a follow-bearing to run along the IDL itself. Then you'd get a perfect replica.  Somehow that felt dishonest, though......one of these days, I hope my integrity actually gets me somewhere. ;-)

Nothing in the swing is done at the expense of balance.


Posted

You can go through Amazon  and pick the Golfsmith option and pick up the short and long track set for 59.99 plus 5.99 shipping... http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001L4DE66/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition;=new

But then, you couldn't use all your cool tools.  I had a local store price match this offer.

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted

I'm going to price out a piece of cardboard and a ball point pen.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

Dude!!

Applause for the effort.  That surface has to feel like Augusta though.... plus you know you can take the track to actual putting greens.  You might get a snicker or two if you haul that beast out to your local green... J/K

ogio.gif  Grom Stand Bag: Stealth
ping.gif     G15  10 .5, G10 3W,  5W, S-57 3-W, Tour-W 50, 5 6, 60 : Redwood Anser Black Satin 34.5"
titleist.gif     Ball: ProV1

Note: This thread is 5441 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
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