Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 7053 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Hi Guys!

I need some help....

I got an original Bronze Ping Anser Putter as a present.

It's in pretty good conditions besides the color.... since it is made of bronze, its color turned to be very dark and stained.

I followed some advices like to apply some vinegard and salt, but it worked a bit but in the overall it did not change the color too much....from dark to a copper (brownish) finish.

any advice to get it back to yellow bronze?

how about a full restoration for the small dings and dents? do you guys know if Ping offer restoration service like Scotty Cameron?

Thanks!!!!
In My Bag:
Driver:
Nike SasQuatch 460 9.5 deg - Fujikura Prototype X
3 Wood:
Orlimar Trimetal Plus 14 deg - Fujikura Prototype XIrons: Titleist 735CM (3-PW) - TT DG 300SWedges: Titleist Vokey 50 & 54 & 60Putter: Scotty Cameron Laguna Oil Can - Custom Shop Restored to Pro...

Posted
I don't know if this will work to your satisfaction, but I used Brasso on both my Ping Anser and my Ping Pal. Of course, it's not long before the finish starts changing color, back to dark and unshiny, again.

Posted
I don't know if this will work to your satisfaction, but I used Brasso on both my Ping Anser and my Ping Pal. Of course, it's not long before the finish starts changing color, back to dark and unshiny, again.

Thank You, Q.Q. Quillume!

So, what you are saying is that no matter how hard I try to polish.... sooner or later it is going to turn dark again?
In My Bag:
Driver:
Nike SasQuatch 460 9.5 deg - Fujikura Prototype X
3 Wood:
Orlimar Trimetal Plus 14 deg - Fujikura Prototype XIrons: Titleist 735CM (3-PW) - TT DG 300SWedges: Titleist Vokey 50 & 54 & 60Putter: Scotty Cameron Laguna Oil Can - Custom Shop Restored to Pro...

Posted
In case you've never heard of Brasso

Is this good also for Bronze? or works best for Brass products?

In My Bag:
Driver:
Nike SasQuatch 460 9.5 deg - Fujikura Prototype X
3 Wood:
Orlimar Trimetal Plus 14 deg - Fujikura Prototype XIrons: Titleist 735CM (3-PW) - TT DG 300SWedges: Titleist Vokey 50 & 54 & 60Putter: Scotty Cameron Laguna Oil Can - Custom Shop Restored to Pro...

Posted
Thank You, Q.Q. Quillume!

Oh, yes. Here's a blurb clipped from the Ping website

http://www.pinggolf.com/putters_classics.html "The material Karsten Solheim chose for his earliest models—Manganese Bronze—helped define the PING putter. Chosen for its feel and quality attributes, it tarnishes with age to create a distinctive look that symbolizes confidence and trust. These putters are offered with a durable 'baked' satin finish that is resistant to the scratches that occur with normal use."

Posted
Is this good also for Bronze? or works best for Brass products?

Yes, I think that although it's named "Brasso", it works on other metals as well. It did clean up my Ping Pal & my Ping Anser. And, I'd forgotten I used to have a Ping 1A that I sold, and it cleaned it up too. I don't know how easy it would be to find (online??) info about Brasso that tells what, specifically, kinds of metals it's supposed to work on . . . good luck.


Posted
brass and bronze are both copper alloys. What works for one should work for the other.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...


Posted
Hi

yes brasso is very good but please don't sniff it as its very noxious!!!!!....also try dipping it in to a can of coke, that usually does the trick but what a waste of a drink

personally i don't see anything wrong with the tarnished colour of the Ping Anser

bb69

Note: This thread is 7053 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I listened to it. I still think it depends on what your margins are. If it's 1-2 degrees of face variation vs an inch of clubhead height at impact I think it's entirely opposite if it's +/- 4 degrees of face vs a groove of clubhead height. One thought I had to carry on the devil's advocate side, I think PGA Tour players struggle more with face angle than they do with low point control. That either means low point control is just easier than face control (I suspect this is the case), but it could also mean that if your low point control is not good then you're never getting on the PGA Tour in the first place. The former would suggest clubface control is more important because low point control is easy. The latter would suggest that low point control is more important.  Speaking from personal experience, I can generally keep the ball on the golf course side to side, but, in particular on less than full shots, I have trouble with my low point. I have stood on a 350 yard par 4 before in a tournament, hit a 280 yard drive down the middle, hit a 10 yard 54 (from 70 yards) and then hit a 90 yard 54 that didn't get more than a yard off the ground. Chip on and two putts and double. So low point control can definitely cause scoring difficulties. Face control obviously can, as can be witnessed by anyone who has hit it over a fence anywhere.
    • Shot an 87 yesterday, despite hitting only two GIR.  😕  I also had four very wasted shots in there:  hole 2, I hit my approach into what I can best describe as soft turf?  I don't know how to describe it.  My first two chips were, I thought, good attempts but both resulted in moving the ball maybe a foot or two.  I don't even know how to detect that condition in the future but now it scares me and I have to figure out what's going on.  Clearly I can't pitch from that kind of lie, but I have to have encountered it before, right? On sticky grass (I don't know how to better describe) on hole 14, I thought I hit another good chip and the grass grabbed it and the ball went maybe a yard, not even to the green.  I walked right up and chipped to 6' or so. And on hole 9, I hit my drive not only shorter than usual, but right, and I was behind a tree and had to play out sideways.  Once I did that, I still had a 5-iron into the green (I normally hit 9-iron or so into this one). On the bright side, I parred every par-5 (there are three).  First two, GIR and a putt to a foot or two.  Third one, two good shots to have a pitch into the elevated green, had my perfect "half UI" shot to the pin with nothing but grass between me and it, didn't account for elevation (note to self: stop forgetting that on pitch shots) and came up just short of the green.  I still was able to putt from there to 2' and make my par.  Okay, so I had some good to go with some bad. 
    • I haven't listened yet, but saw the title and was thinking about it, curious which way round they came out. My thought would be it really depends on how much we're talking. If your club is half an inch low at impact on a wedge, the ball is not going very far. If you're 2 degrees open, you're basically fine. If you're a groove low with an 8 iron you won't notice much if anything. If your face is 4 degrees open with a driver, you're on the next hole over (if you're lucky). Interested to listen (will be doing so at lunchtime while I walk the doggo).
    • That was a good discussion on face control versus low point control.  I fall on the face control side of things. My best summer of golf was similar to Erik's. Slightly thin, which the ball just goes were you aim typically, or big toe push draws. If the face was out of control, especially with my swing speed, then the ball could be 60+ yards left or right.  The number of times I have thinned a 3-wood off the deck on a par 5, where I thinned it, and I had a perfect wedge or short iron in is a lot. I came up with a bit of self-deprecating joke by saying that it was a strategic layup. Just to be like, eh that sucked but it turned out like I hit an 8-iron layup shot, so what ever.  Yea, you can get away with slight thin or fat, and the ball will most likely be playable on the next shot. You fan that face wide open 4 degrees and bye-bye golf ball. 
    • Wordle 1,795 3/6* 🟨⬜⬜🟩⬜ ⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.