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Posted

I've been using a 45" driver since I've started which is about 2 years now and I'm going to buy a new driver.  I've read that getting a shorter shaft is recommended but I'm wondering if I should get 43.5" or 44".  I am 5'9. Also, I swing around ~104 mph and it's been gradually increasing so should I get Stiff or stick to regular? Thanks!


Posted

Take it from me, it's very, I mean very difficult to get a driver at 43.5 or even 44" to play at a decent swingweight if you buy something off the shelf.

Case in point.

Last year alone I went from:

an R9 cut down to 44.75 to a

Nickent 4dx Evolver cut down to 45.25" to a

Callaway FTIQ cut down to 44" to a

Adams 4g Ultralitght cut down to 43.25" to a

Burner Superfast 2.0 cut down to 45.5"

I never added lead to the head on any of them and they all felt very light as they ended up in the low C's for swingweight.  At std length I was actually hitting them somewhat decent but figured I wanted more consistency and cut them all down.

Downside to this is if you do not add lead back to the head your swingweight with be very light and the shaft will tend to play much firmer than what it did at original length.  I use A Flex shafts and after the cut downs the shafts on the Maltby scale all read Stiff.  This lead to alot of balls leaking right on me and I couldn't close the club face at impact.

This season I got fed up with the ball slicing with the 2.0 so I went to a Callaway Razr Fit.

The head on this driver is heavier to begin with.  I shortened it 2" to 44" and put a Winn undersized grip (38 grams I believe) and it came out to a D1 swingweight which feels really good.  The club is manageable length now and my slice is gone.  Actually had to take the face position from closed to straight to keep it from hooking too much.  On wide open holes I play it at full length but on shorter par 4's I grip down about an inch and its a fairway finder.

Had this not worked out, I was ready to go see a Wishon fitter as I understand his latest driver can be made to as short as a 42.5" because of the various weight ports where heavier weight can be added.

I've done extensive research on shorter drivers and the only men's drivers I have seen that come standard at 44" are the Tour Edge Bazooka J Max Gold 15*and the Hireko 14" Acer Thriver.  With your swing speed though those lofts would be much to high for you.  Many of the Giga Golf clone drivers they sell as well as the Hireko house brands are at least only 45" and not the industry norm of 46"

Hope that helps.

Driver: Ping G25

3w - Ping K15

3h - TEE Trilogy

4h - TEE Trilogy

5h - TEE Trilogy

Irons: Ping G25 6-LW

Putter: Odyssey White Ice D.A.R.T
Bag: Nike SQ Tour

Optics: Bushnell Tour V2 Slope

Shoes: True Linkswear


Posted

wow thanks a lot! :( unfortunately i already ordered my driver. I got the Nike VR Pro Ltd Ed 44" in Stiff. Kind of worried now about it being too stiff :/


Posted

I probably would have said stick to 45 inches with todays driver heads - going shorter will stiffen unless you load some weight on it at the club head end. I'd suggest you try it, and then take it to a competent club maker for hot melt in the head to add weight. 5'9' is not short for a 45 inch driver. I've gone to a lighter weight shaft at 55g and have had better success hitting it squarely at 45 inches and D2.

Too many people outthink themselves on clubs - I like more traditional lengths, but you find no one hitting a driver at 43.5-44 any more - even pros go at 44.5 + inches, and the trend seems to be longer for them. I remember Justin Leonard using a 46 inch driver several years ago and he is 5'9".

OEMs are trying to sell longer length clubs on every club. Generally, I don't agree it's good for the normal player. For example, my driver is 45 inches in a 55g lite shaft, My 5 wood is 42 inches in a 55g shaft instead of 43, the 7 wood at 41 inches in a 55g instead of 41.5-42, and these are aftermarket shafts, not stock noodles. The Hybrid  4 club is at 39 inches in a 65 graphite shaft instead of 40, and 5i is 38 inches in an Aerotech 80g shaft.

You just have to find what works best for you by finding a competent club maker and fitter.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted

Thanksss :/ looks like my only option is to learn how to swing faster haha jk I'll definitely consider adding weight like you said if it is a problem or get a new shaft :X apparently the stock made for nike ahina isn't very popular


Posted


Originally Posted by chilipepper205

If you are going to buy a new driver, see someone who can properly fit you for the correct shaft flex and length based on your swing.


You know guys, I get really sick of hearing this canned response.     Alot of people like to figure the game out for themselves and don't care to rely on "getting fitted" and going through the work of trying to find someone reputable who can do a proper job of this, rather that just going to Golfsmith which is a shot in the dark.     He was just asking for generalities, would a stiff shaft better fit someone of his statureand 104 mph swing speed than a regular shaft.    I think, it would, but I would defer to those more experienced, which I presume is exactly why he's asking on this forum , rather than going to get fitted.

Sorry, I'm cranky today - my tee time was cancelled due to the weather.   I'd just like to see a little less of the "just get fitted" comments ...

  • Upvote 1

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Posted
Something else to bear in mind is how far down the shaft you grip normally. For me I've always gripped an inch down the shaft (from the very end of the grip) with all my irons and wedges as it seems to suit my swing more even though I'm classed as 'standard' at 5'7" and with my wrist-to-floor measurement. With the driver, 3w and 3h I tend to grip an inch and a half down but am happy with the swing weight of the clubs do wouldn't contemplate cutting them down.

SWING DNA
Speed [77] Tempo [5] ToeDown [5] KickAngle [6] Release [5] Mizuno JPX EZ 10.5° - Fujikura Orochi Black Eye (with Harrison ShotMaker) Mizuno JPX EZ 3W/3H - Fujikura Orochi Black Eye Mizuno JPX 850 Forged 4i-PW - True Temper XP 115 S300 Mizuno MP R-12 50.06/54.09/58.10 - Dynamic Gold Wedge Flex Mizuno MP A305 [:-P]


Posted

I normally grip like less than half an inch from the end of the grip for all of my clubs. I only read how even many pros don't play 45" so why should I and that cutting it will increase consistency which is what I wanted but what I didn't know before ordering the 44" shaft in stiff was that it's going to play stiffer and the weight.  I definitely should have just either got 45" in stiff or 44" in regular so not too happy right now.  And to inthehole's comment thanks haha that's exactly it.  I did learn a lot so thanks to everyone again :)


Posted

Seriously considering chopping my Rocketballz down a couple inches. I have the stock stiff shaft, and I'm pushing them out to the right like there is no tomorrow. I cut down my old driver, a 2007 Burner (from the tip, crazy job re-epoxying the head) and I was able to work that driver great.

Whats the worst case scenario? It ends up not working and I have to replace the shaft all together (which was the only other option).

Of course this time I will take off from the grip end and re-grip.

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Posted


Originally Posted by mtsalmela80

Seriously considering chopping my Rocketballz down a couple inches. I have the stock stiff shaft, and I'm pushing them out to the right like there is no tomorrow. I cut down my old driver, a 2007 Burner (from the tip, crazy job re-epoxying the head) and I was able to work that driver great.

Whats the worst case scenario? It ends up not working and I have to replace the shaft all together (which was the only other option).

Of course this time I will take off from the grip end and re-grip.


I'm a huge fan of shortening drivers ... BUT ... you have to start out with a shaft soffter than what you will wind up with after you cut it.    I ruined a Nike driver when I first started playing - it was a stiff shaft to begin with & after lopping an inch and a half off it, it became EXTRA stiff & I began pushing everything right.     If you're already pushing it right with the stock stiff shaft, it will only get worse when you cut it & it gets even stiffer.     I've learned to start with regular shafts & after cutting them, they are much closer to stiff & it works well for me.

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Posted

I wish I knew why a too stiff shaft results in pushes. I mean isn't it possible there is just something wrong with my swing? When I get a good one it goes 280, doesn't that distance warrant a stiff shaft?

Others say that cutting from the butt end results in a miniscule stiffness adjustment, the bigger issue is the head weight shift.

Originally Posted by inthehole

I'm a huge fan of shortening drivers ... BUT ... you have to start out with a shaft soffter than what you will wind up with after you cut it.    I ruined a Nike driver when I first started playing - it was a stiff shaft to begin with & after lopping an inch and a half off it, it became EXTRA stiff & I began pushing everything right.     If you're already pushing it right with the stock stiff shaft, it will only get worse when you cut it & it gets even stiffer.     I've learned to start with regular shafts & after cutting them, they are much closer to stiff & it works well for me.



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Posted


Originally Posted by mtsalmela80

I wish I knew why a too stiff shaft results in pushes. I mean isn't it possible there is just something wrong with my swing? When I get a good one it goes 280, doesn't that distance warrant a stiff shaft?

Others say that cutting from the butt end results in a miniscule stiffness adjustment, the bigger issue is the head weight shift.

Distance has nothing to do with the stiffness of the shaft.

When I get one right on the screws I can get 280 with both my regular and soft regular drivers.

Don't believe "others" in regards to butt trimming shafts. I have cut down both a driver and 4 iron, 2 inches and 1 inch, respectively (both duplicates) and they both play far stiffer than the originals hit side by side. Plus you will loose alot of distance.

I'm only 5'5" and I now have no problem playing any standard length club. All it took was several lessons.

David


  • Administrator
Posted

Originally Posted by dmnoland

Distance has nothing to do with the stiffness of the shaft.


I'm not really following the conversation, but that's just not accurate. It may not be the single biggest component, but it has something to do with distance!

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
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Posted


Originally Posted by iacas

I'm not really following the conversation, but that's just not accurate. It may not be the single biggest component, but it has something to do with distance!

Why?

Shaft stiffness is relative to swing speed in controlling trajectory and direction, not distance.


David


  • Administrator
Posted

Originally Posted by dmnoland

Why?

Shaft stiffness is relative to swing speed in controlling trajectory and direction, not distance.


Shaft stiffness can affect distance.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Posted

Why will I lose a lot of distance? From losing an inch or two off the shaft?

Originally Posted by dmnoland

Distance has nothing to do with the stiffness of the shaft.

When I get one right on the screws I can get 280 with both my regular and soft regular drivers.

Don't believe "others" in regards to butt trimming shafts. I have cut down both a driver and 4 iron, 2 inches and 1 inch, respectively (both duplicates) and they both play far stiffer than the originals hit side by side. Plus you will loose alot of distance.

I'm only 5'5" and I now have no problem playing any standard length club. All it took was several lessons.



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  • Administrator
Posted
Originally Posted by mtsalmela80

Why will I lose a lot of distance? From losing an inch or two off the shaft?


The physics says you'll lose 3 MPH or so clubhead speed, so six or seven yards. That's not what I'd call "a lot" but it is what it is, and you can more than make up for it by finding the sweet spot more often or hitting the ball more solidly in general.

I'm not a fan of the fact that drivers are so long these days (their shaft length).

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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