Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 4851 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Been playing for a year or so now, betting out on the course once a week or fortnight. As a beginner my main concern was getting use to get some height on the ball from tee, fairway, ruff etc. Now this is coming along ok but I have really neglected the putting side of my game.

Tend to three putt all the time from any thing you may call mid to long range, any tips anyone could offer as to how I could improve it when on a practicing putting green or maybe something I could do in my own home?


Posted

This is my recommendation. First make sure you putt on the intended line and aim your clubface square to where you aim. This can be done with an elevated string on a flat slope, make sure you can make the ball roll under the string, make a gate with two pegs at the beginning of the string so you make sure the ball starts where you want. Then try it with some break and notice how much you have to aim outside the cup to sink the putts. With break the ball starts under the string but leaves the string ofcourse. Once you are aware of the true aim, learn some about different putting techniques, the technique where the clubface is square to the target all the time and the more common one when your clubface turns in an arc, also read about different putting grips. Try some different techniques and decide for the one that feels best. Now learn some basics about green reading, how downhill and uphill affects the break etc, also check some videos about aimpoint and maybe take a course if you wanna learn more about greenreading. Next thing is to get the right speed, I don't recomment you to try to learn lot of techniques, this is imo mostly feel and training. I'd train lot of long putts like 10 yard putts from different slopes and combine that with the green reading skills you learned. Then make sure the 3 feet putts is in the cups atleast 90 % of the time. Should be few or none 3 putts after that.


Posted

Find the nastiest slope on the putting green and set up the Mickelson 3 foot drill and hit 100 putts.  Keep doin that until you are in the 90 percent range.  Pros make about 97 percent of putts within 3 feet and I bet you won't even make 80 percent when you first start.  That is alot of strokes given away that can be avoided with a lil bit of work.  Working your way around the circle will expose you to all the possible breaks that any putt will have and that will make you much better at reading putts. The drill will also teach you how to marry the right amount of speed and break which will help tremendously as you move further away from the hole.

After I finish with that drill then I take out my alignment rod that I have marked with electrical tape like a ruler and work on my distance control.  If you you learn to putt at the rhythm of the putter then you will quickly learn what size stroke you need for each putt.

You have to have a plan when putting and form a baseline to work off of and that is why I find the alignment rod work to be very important because a 10 foot putt is not  a 10 foot putt and by that I mean:

From a level lie a 10 foot putt is probably in the range of 6 feet and then the ball begins to decelerate and come to a stop at 10 feet.

From a downhill lie a 10 foot putt is probably in the range of 4 feet and then the ball begins to decelerate and come to a stop at 10 feet.

From a uphill lie a 10 foot putt is probably in the range of 8 feet and then the ball begins to decelerate and come to a stop at 10 feet.

So in esscence a putt is read like a chip or a pitch because you are predicting how much roll out the ball will have as it decelerates.

Any putt outside of about 6 feet is pretty much distance control work because the percentage of a make drop off bigtime outside of this distance  and I like to practice making putts.

Here are some good videos:


Posted

something simple someone told me a month ago that helped me a lot

with your putting, don't try to push your stroke but initiate your swing by pulling your stroke

by that i mean, try leading with your left hand towards impact and keeping your trail hand as passive as possible


Posted

A big thing for you right now is probably speed control, which you can work on at home.  Practice rolling putts to a target (a cup, the wall, a club shaft laid on the ground, etc.) at different distances.  Working on gently hitting your target from various distances, without banging into it or stopping short.  Focus on the amount of backswing and downswing needed for various distances and speeds.  Getting a better feel for speed control will help you get better at getting it close, turning your three-putts into two-putts (and sometimes one).

Driver: TaylorMade Burner 2.0 Superfast, 10.5*, Regular

5 Wood:  TaylorMade Burner 2.0 Superfast, 18*, Regular

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Rescue Mid 4, 22*

Irons:  Nike Slingshot OSS 4-PW

Wedges: Cleveland CG16 Black, 52*, 56*, 60*

Putter:  Nike OZ Black T130, SuperStroke Slim 55

Ball:  Bridgestone e6

Rangefinder:  Callaway Razr


Posted

All of the above puts the cart before the horse, IMO.  For someone three-putting out of his mind, he doesn't need to hear about the 'trailing hand' or go hit 100 putts.  He's got some fundamental problems that need to be addressed first.  The first thing to note about putting is this: it's just tapping a ball and rolling it.  The ball doesn't slice, or duff, or skull....you're bumping the ball to make it roll in the hole.  It's dead easy......in concept.  However, it is unquestionably the most unforgiving part of the game; you can't change that, so you just need to realize the expectation.  I think too many amateurs get freaked out about a 30-foot putt.  Pick a line, you're probably pretty decent at it, and then you're just hitting it a certain speed.  Two questions need to be answered: 1) why are the pros so deadly lethal at it, and 2) why are many amateurs so god-awfully bad at it?

1) They're that good because they practice INCESSANTLY.  Their putting strokes are so consistent, their aim so pure, and their feel so good, that they make the ball hit that 4" wide target more often than you ever will.  They haven't found some secret to putting, they simply do it A LOT.  Forget 'pro-level' putting as your standard.

2) A lot of amateurs are that bad for one main reasons, IMO: they do not TRUST themselves.  It's very hard to become a deadly putter.  It is VERY EASY to become a 'pretty good' putter.  There's a good explanation for why the students of Dave Stockton (considered maybe THE authority on tour right now) adopt the following approach: get behind putt, get a read, get over the ball, hit it.  I can virtually guarantee, with any putt I show you, you could easily figure out how to hit it too far left, or too far right, or way short, or way long.  The right putt is simply something in the middle of all those.  The ball has to end up somewhere, it might as well be right around the hole.  It's all about trusting that fact, and just going with it.  If I had to bet, I would be willing to say that 90% of amateurs miss putts because they change their mind about some aspect of the putt while they're over the ball.  You can't do that.  Read the putt, pick a nearby spot to aim, and set up.  Once you set up to the ball, YOUR LINE IS DETERMINED.  All that remains is deciding how hard to swing the putter.  You can't wonder if you're aimed right, or if you read it right, it's too late.  If you're unsure, back off and reset.  But get over the ball and just hit it.  I don't think many amateurs have issues with the putter face opening and closing wildly.  A consistent three-putter is making it way too complex.  Simplify the concept, clear your mind, trust it.......and just roll the ball.

Nothing in the swing is done at the expense of balance.


Posted

It would help to know how you are missing when you 3-putt.  Is the issue distance control or is your line bad?  I agree with SonicBlue that a simplified approach can work well for most people particularly when trying to determine the line of the putt.

But if you're 16 feet away from the hole on your first putt, and wind up 10 feet past the hole, or 6 feet short, you need to work on distance control.  A drill that I like is the "ladder" drill.  Grab a few balls and set them along a line at 3, 6, 9, and 12 feet (approximately), preferably on flat ground. Go up to the shortest ball and putt, then putt the next ball, and so on.  Realize that the length of your backswing should determine the distance of the putt.  Longer putts should have longer backswings.  You'll want to feel the clubhead accelerate through the ball...but don't rush your stroke.  Make sure all of your strokes are done with the same rhythm regardless of the length of your stroke.

TaylorMade Burner Driver (2009) 9.5 degree, Stiff
TaylorMade R7 3 Wood, Stiff 
Nike VR Pro Hybrid 21 degree, Stiff 
Mizuno MX23 4-PW, Rifle shafts, Reg
Nike SV 52-56-60 wedges (ILLEGAL!)
NeverCompromise mallet putter (OLD)
Srixon AD-333 or Titleist Pro V1

 

 


Posted
Originally Posted by nevrino

This is my recommendation. First make sure you putt on the intended line and aim your clubface square to where you aim. This can be done with an elevated string on a flat slope, make sure you can make the ball roll under the string, make a gate with two pegs at the beginning of the string so you make sure the ball starts where you want.

This is what nevrino is talking about if you need some visualization.

http://www.golfchannel.com/media/golf-fix-tip-sink-more-putts-073012/

Sorry I can't embed it, because they don't have this video posted to their youtube channel.


Note: This thread is 4851 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.