Need recommendations on a driver shaft to lower ball flight.

[tjumper78]

look into arthur extreme xcaliber shafts.  fantastic shafts.

they had a huge sale going on just last month (probably still going).

their shafts are some of the lowest launching in the market.

i got their 6 stiff shaft for my superfast 2.0 tp, and it launches lower than matrix hd6 and rip alpha 60.

the shaft was $30.

[ftrw85]

Originally Posted by tuffluck

when i was looking, some recommended were adams 9064ls, rapture v2, and cleveland 290 as they are all low spin heads.  i guarantee you there are others, but none that come to mind.  i ended up though with the adams fast 12 ls because someone on CL was selling a brand new one in the 8.5 degree loft for $40, which is a steal.  really for me, price is what sold me since i hadn't hit any of them.

you will like that shaft though.  i think stiff was a good decision.  my average SS is 104 and the grafalloy ratings are like 100-110mph Stiff, and then 105-120mph X-stiff.  i personally think 105-110 only needs X stiff if you are a very good ball striker and aren't trying too hard to swing harder.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely look into these heads. Depending on cost I may or may not go for a head change. I will just have to see what type of deal I can get. I also didnt realize that there were driver heads made to produce less spin.

[ftrw85]

Originally Posted by Beachcomber

1.) What did your spin numbers drop to when you went to the stiffer shaft?

2.) What's the length of shaft the shaft of the Graffaloy Pro Launc red stiff shaft?

If you want to further optimize your numbers... You may want to consider a lower lofted driver for your swing speed - like 9*?

And finally, hitting the ball low off the face will increase your spin numbers as I stated above.  If you make contact in quadrant 1 and 2.  1 being the best. Your launch numbers will go up - but your spin will decrease - and you will bomb it out there.

When you get your setup (new shaft and possibly new head) - see if that Pro will let you jump back on the monitor.  It would be interesting to see what your numbers are with the new setup.

1 .)As for my spin numbers, I honestly didnt get a number on what they dropped to :p that would have probably been good though. After he said the spin stats would be off, spin went into the back of my mind. He just made the comment that my spin rate dropped a good amount with the stiffer shaft.

2.) The Graffaloy is 46 inches, but havent had it installed yet so not sure if anything would need to be cut? Not exaclty sure how that works. First time I have gotten a shaft installed.

I agree with the lower loft. I'll have to see what kind of deal I can get on a head.

I started teeing the ball lower to try to keep from my drives ballooning, but before that I did not have this problem of hitting it low off the face I dont believe. After I have the new shaft installed, I will go back to teeing the ball somewhat higher to make contact in the upper quadrant of the club face. What determines how high you tee your drives? Preference? Driver head size?

[tuffluck]

so on the shaft, it comes uncut at 46".  46" is pretty stout for most average golfers.  you know tiger during his glory days was using a driver with only a 43.5" shaft, which is tiny!  and he can get it out there pretty good.  so don't feel like you have to use all of that 46", even though more shaft length often does equate to more length off the tee.  but, you lose control with more length of shaft as well.

my nike driver was 45.75" stock, so when i built this latest driver, i went with 45.5", and one of those reasons being the head i bought was adjustable for a 45" or 45.5" shaft.  since i was already familiar with a bit longer shaft, i went with the lengthier option.  i am also very tall at 6'5" and all of my other clubs are extended an inch.  the same rules don't exactly apply to a driver, but i do have experience controlling a longer shaft in general.  there was a poll done here a couple of years back that asked what length of shaft the average handicapper should play.  believe it or not the most popular by a wide margin was under 45".  i think you should start as long as you are comfortable with and see how it goes.  it's much easier to cut more off than add more back on :)

i tee my balls pretty low, just because i really swing down on the ball.  that means my clubface gets pretty close to the ground on impact.  in fact, i can hit a driver off of no tee quite well.  there have been many par 5s i've gone for the green in two and hit my driver 275+ off of the ground, which is longer than my average off of a tee.  some people just swing it a lot higher off of the ground and therefore need a teed up ball.  i think you should determine tee distance based on ball flight.

with spin, until you get more consistent at striking the ball, you probably will see very erratic results.  if i were you i would probably let your shaft sit around the house for a few weeks while you scour the internet looking for a good deal on a head.  that's just me though.

[Beachcomber]

WARNING... Don't just go and randomly have your shaft cut down to size.  46" stiff - cut down to say 44" would easily be a change in swing weight - and the shaft will be much stiffer than advertised from the OEM @ 46" when cut down to 44".

My recommendation... Get your numbers with the new 46" stiff shaft.  Check the following:

1.) Ball speed

2.) Launch Angle

3.) Spin

Report back what you have... And then from there we can provide input on the next steps.  I play with a 46" shaft too - and hit over 60% of my fairways.  And my swing speed is in the low to mid 100's.  So I wouldn't immediately think that you can't play with a 46" shaft.

Also, I use a Bugle Tee which has a built in tee setter... 3 1/4".  This ensures my tee height is set properly with every drive.

http://www.bugletee.com/Products.html#anchor_125

I bought the twin pack which came with one 2 3/4" and one 3 1/4" tee.  I only use the 3 1/4" tee... And I've played over 100 rounds with the tee and it is in perfect condition - minus being a little dirty looking (my tee's are white). I'm not saying you need to have a Bugle Tee - but I'd get a longer tee - and ensure you are hitting it higher on the face to get the Spin numbers down as discussed earlier in the thread.

Your launch with your swing speed should be in the 11 to 14 range.  The more you swing up - the more vertical launch you will get.... So the ball with fly higher - but you will maximize your distance.

Up meaning...An ascending blow with the driver - while trying to have a slightly forward shaft lean (flat left wrist) at impact.

Play around with your address posture... Here is a good reference from a student who is working with Dana Dahlquist (an instructor who is well respected and teaches a swing pattern based on a centered pivot):

Notice how the student with his driver tees the ball forward - near his big toe on his lead foot.  His head is centered - which places it well behind the ball.  This type of setup will promote an ascending blow with the driver.  And then from there, experiment with your tee height - and monitor the impact on the face.  Getting blows to regularly be in the quadrant #1 will really maximize your distance - and minimize your spin number which was killing your distance.

[ftrw85]

Originally Posted by Beachcomber

WARNING... Don't just go and randomly have your shaft cut down to size.  46" stiff - cut down to say 44" would easily be a change in swing weight - and the shaft will be much stiffer than advertised from the OEM @ 46" when cut down to 44".

Up meaning...An ascending blow with the driver - while trying to have a slightly forward shaft lean (flat left wrist) at impact.

I’ll more than likely just stay with whatever length my shaft is currently, which I believe is 46. I’ll double check this before installing the new shaft. Really great illustrations though. The +5 degree driver angle pic really gives me a good idea of what is supposed to be happening.Really like those bugle tee's. It's 6$ for one tee though? I can defintely see the benefit as it takes all the guesswork out of how high/low your teeing the ball.

Originally Posted by tuffluck

so on the shaft, it comes uncut at 46".  46" is pretty stout for most average golfers.  you know tiger during his glory days was using a driver with only a 43.5" shaft, which is tiny!  and he can get it out there pretty good.  so don't feel like you have to use all of that 46", even though more shaft length often does equate to more length off the tee.  but, you lose control with more length of shaft as well.

my nike driver was 45.75" stock, so when i built this latest driver, i went with 45.5", and one of those reasons being the head i bought was adjustable for a 45" or 45.5" shaft.  since i was already familiar with a bit longer shaft, i went with the lengthier option.  i am also very tall at 6'5" and all of my other clubs are extended an inch.  the same rules don't exactly apply to a driver, but i do have experience controlling a longer shaft in general.  there was a poll done here a couple of years back that asked what length of shaft the average handicapper should play.  believe it or not the most popular by a wide margin was under 45".  i think you should start as long as you are comfortable with and see how it goes.  it's much easier to cut more off than add more back on :)

i tee my balls pretty low, just because i really swing down on the ball.  that means my clubface gets pretty close to the ground on impact.  in fact, i can hit a driver off of no tee quite well.  there have been many par 5s i've gone for the green in two and hit my driver 275+ off of the ground, which is longer than my average off of a tee.  some people just swing it a lot higher off of the ground and therefore need a teed up ball.  i think you should determine tee distance based on ball flight.

with spin, until you get more consistent at striking the ball, you probably will see very erratic results.  if i were you i would probably let your shaft sit around the house for a few weeks while you scour the internet looking for a good deal on a head.  that's just me though.

I still havent looked for a head yet. The shaft arrives tomorrow. I am not even going to start hitting at the range for another couple weeks, so I have some time.

[inthecup]

I am a believer in finding a good fitter. Do you think a fitter with 50 shafts and 20 heads ,launch monitor and experience can do a better job then you picking one off a website? A $24 eBay shaft is a false economy. The expense of a properly fitted driver in the scheme of what a round of golf cost is pretty minimal. I just had a driver fit and I hit lots of shaft and head combinations, length also. Also played with swing weight. I went to Pete's golf on LI. Well worth it. I gained 15 yards easy. He took my spin numbers way down and optimized my launch.

[tuffluck]

Originally Posted by inthecup

I am a believer in finding a good fitter. Do you think a fitter with 50 shafts and 20 heads ,launch monitor and experience can do a better job then you picking one off a website?

A $24 eBay shaft is a false economy. The expense of a properly fitted driver in the scheme of what a round of golf cost is pretty minimal.

I just had a driver fit and I hit lots of shaft and head combinations, length also. Also played with swing weight. I went to Pete's golf on LI. Well worth it.

I gained 15 yards easy. He took my spin numbers way down and optimized my launch.

everyone has their opinion on fitting i guess.  personally i don't think anyone under an 8hdcp is a good enough ballstriker to hit on a LM only 2-3 shots with each shaft/head and expect to get any real world results; most likely they'll wind up going with the club/shaft they luckily hit the sweet spot on and believed it to be the best combo.  unless you're hitting the ball in the perfect zone 75% of the time i don't think those LM sessions are tremendously helpful except in a false sense of security type of way.  the true reality for most people too is that it takes round after round for months to get used to new clubs.  look at mcilroy...perfect example.  if you think hitting 2-3 balls (or hell, even 50) on a LM with a shaft/club you aren't familiar with is definitive evidence, i don't think you've given the idea much thought.  that's just my opinion though.

the smart thing to do is take the club you do hit well to the LM.  you'll have the most consistent numbers there...ball speed, clubhead speed, launch angle, and spin.  that's the best way to see what problems you have and where to fix them.  you can either have a qualified fitter do this, or you can do it yourself.  i saw definitive evidence that my average drive had way too high of spin and way too high of launch angle.  i did the research on shaft/head to find the ones that lowered both numbers, and it worked out great for me.  sure, not everyone would be so fortunate, but again real world results will tell you plenty of golfers will walk into a store and buy a $400 club only to exchange it weeks later because they weren't hitting it as well as they thought they would.  i think fitters are great marketing, but you can probably accomplish most of what they do on your own with a little intuition and patience.  exceptions for people who compete, pros, sure.  again, just my two cents.

also what are you basing your 15y off of?  a GPS or just approximations from where you normally hit the ball with the old driver on familiar courses?  honestly using a GPS to track driver distance was the most humbling thing i ever did for my golf game.  i use to think i was averaging at least 275y, but i never really did account for courses moving tees closer than stated distances, wind, conditions, etc.  by the time i got a 3-round average with a GPS, my real numbers were a measily 257y on my old driver.  i am 5 rounds in on the new driver and those averages are now 266y.  i think people who claim anymore than about a 15y advantage when switching drivers were either hitting drivers with ludicrous lofts/flexes before (like a ladies driver perhaps), or people who are just guessing.

so, i'm all for the $25 shaft.  worse case scenario you're out $50 bucks.  my brand new driver cost me $100.