Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ttaggart

Snapped shaft on Mizuno iron. What to do?

5 posts in this topic

I snapped my 6 iron shaft on my Mizuno MP53's. I believe they have True Temper Dynaflex Gold shafts (Stiff). I will be taking it to my local golf shop to get it fixed but want some advice as to getting the shaft replaced. I'm an 12 handicapper with a low ballflight. Should I just get a regular steel shaft? Anything similar that I should try?

I just worry that they won't have this shaft available or that it will be expensive to get it replaced.

I've never had to replace a shaft before so excuse my naivety.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

I snapped my 6 iron shaft on my Mizuno MP53's. I believe they have True Temper Dynaflex Gold shafts (Stiff). I will be taking it to my local golf shop to get it fixed but want some advice as to getting the shaft replaced. I'm an 12 handicapper with a low ballflight. Should I just get a regular steel shaft? Anything similar that I should try?

I just worry that they won't have this shaft available or that it will be expensive to get it replaced.

I've never had to replace a shaft before so excuse my naivety.


Dynamic Gold S300-355T shaft will work. You can try on-line at www.golfsmith.com

http://www.golfsmith.com/product/30025025/true-temper-dynamic-gold-355t-steel-iron-shaft

IDK your length for your 6i.

This is one good think about Mizuno. My friend snapped three shafts for various "reasons", and replacement was easy at Golfsmith.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I snapped my 6 iron shaft on my Mizuno MP53's. I believe they have True Temper Dynaflex Gold shafts (Stiff). I will be taking it to my local golf shop to get it fixed but want some advice as to getting the shaft replaced. I'm an 12 handicapper with a low ballflight. Should I just get a regular steel shaft? Anything similar that I should try?

I just worry that they won't have this shaft available or that it will be expensive to get it replaced.

I've never had to replace a shaft before so excuse my naivety.

Yeah, it's honestly not a big deal and shouldn't be too expensive...most steel shafts are not very pricey.  Take both halves of the club with you (if you still have the grip end), or if you don't, take the 5 and 7 iron with you so they know how long to make the 6 iron.  They should be able to match it up if you want the same shaft (or something similar) unless you wanted to use this opportunity to try something different.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Golfsmith charges ~$5 to replace a shaft.  The Dynamic Gold is not expensive either.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Golfsmith charges ~$5 to replace a shaft.  The Dynamic Gold is not expensive either.


Include a nice grip and the total should be $4 (grip) + $10 (service charge without the membership) + $19 (Shaft)= $33 or a bit less if you haggle. The grip installation usually comes with the shaft service.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • For an individual hole - I keep count in my head.  After a round, say on the next day, I can remember maybe 80% of my shots if I played on my home course.  And my memory is not very good.   Last round for instance, say hole 16, hit a decent drive probably 220 in the fairway, fatted a pitching wedge from a very wet lie about 85 yards and was left just on the lip of a greenside bunker, LW chip with front foot in the bunker and much lower than back foot about 20 yards and 20 feet past the hole, the putts? this is where my memory fails.  Like I said, I have a poor memory.  I'm assuming pretty much everyone can do this, most probably better than me.  As such, the idea of having a counting device is a strange one to me. For round score keeping - I use a scorecard and pencil.  I don't like fussing with a smart phone during a round.
    • This is the difference between my pitch and my chip; a pitch in my game is a smaller, gentler iron swing (takeback is only to between 9 and 12 o' clock instead of to 2-3 o' clock), and it's something I've only recently been able to hit cleanly, to say nothing of dropping it where I want it especially at very short range. If I'm inside 10 yards from the edge of the green, I'll just take a club that will roll out the distance I want afterward (somewhere between a 7 and a gap) and give it a stiff-armed, stiff-wristed bump to set it on the green and let it run out from there. As far as rollout distance, it depends on the club and you really just have to try em out. Bring your bag to the chipping green and start with your highest-lofted club. Start about 3-5 yards off the green and aim for the edge, then see how much further past the edge the ball rolls. Take notes (mentally or on paper); this carry-to-rollout ratio will be similar for just about any strength of swing with this style of chipping. So, when you get to the course, estimate how many clublengths it is from your lie to the green, and then how many clublengths more to the hole, choose your club accordingly, and then aim for the edge of the green. This works until you have to carry a longer distance than you can roll out, at which point you switch to the pitch shot to drop it where you want it.
    • Great set of clubs but elbow issues have forced me to go with some graphite in my irons. Sad to let them go but I don't foresee myself playing steel again for at least a year. Clubs are standard L/L/L and the grips are practically new. 6-3 iron have very little use since I used them as a combo set with some MP-H4s (also for sale). Some bag chatter and small dings here and there as you'd expect from a soft forged iron. Asking $500 shipped.      
    • I will always believe, if fitted properly,  it is the golfer's swing that makes any club work well for them. Cheap, or expensive, it does not matter. Some clubs might be of better quality than others, but that's about it.  Many years ago, I took a group lesson from a pga instructor. Someone in the group ask the instructor if he was any good. He proceeded to hit balls with clubs from our different individual bags like they were custom fitted to him. He told us, that all he did was make a grip adjustment to offset any difference in our clubs's different lie angles. It did not matter what the brand name on the club was. All the balls he hit, went towards his intended target, at the correct distances. His own swing sent the ball flying. This was the only thing I took away from this lesson. The next night there was a different pga instructor, which is another story. 
    • And fast greens can be near impossible to get the ball close on down hill putts, the margin of distance error is really thin.  On my most recent round I had a 60 foot downhill putt that I hit 90 feet and right off the green, I went fringe to fringe.  Ended up with 4 putts and the greens were not that fast.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. OR Cat
      OR Cat
      (55 years old)
    2. RandallT
      RandallT
      (50 years old)
  • Blog Entries