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Wrist rotation


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So I've been working on my mechanics alot lately. I used to just keep my wrists locked up on every swing to avoid some kinda weird contact on the downswing. But now I've been rotating them out on the backswing and crossing over on the follow through. I noticed that with my new irons this helps keep my distance where it should be, but now I'm slicing my driver and woods pretty bad.

I guess the question I have is, should I move the ball back in my stance for the driver and woods (I currently line up with the ball just inside my front foot), or should I not rotate my wrists out on the back swing at all. I read somewhere that this would generate some power, but more importantly the crossover at the follow through is "proper" technique".

Thanks in advance,

Flux
I'm only at 13 clubs in the bag, what do you reccomend as a 14th? My foot wedge?


In the bag:
Driver - HiBore XL 10.5* Reg. Flex Fit- on Fuji GoldWoods - Tightlies GT2: 3 wood 15* & 5 wood 19* Surpass 7 wood 24*Irons - Eye 2 4-PW & a cheesey 1 iron blade I use for punch...
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You should avoid rotating your wrists during the backswing. This opens up the clubface and makes it much more difficult to square the clubface on the downswing - a problem that most high handicappers struggle with already. At one time, I began to do this without noticing and it produced some of the nastiest slices I have ever hit.

Ideally, for a one-piece takeaway, the shoulders should rotate about the spine with the arms, hands, and wrists, staying relatively quiet. The right elbow will have to bend once the club reaches past parallel and the wrists will have to cock to set the club, but there should not be any rotation of the wrists (in relation to the forearms).

This is my experience and it works for me.
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The hands, wrists, forearms (whatever you focus on) must rotate somewhat to keep the swing on plane. You obviously don't what excessive roll. There are a few good checkpoint positions. When the club is parallel to the ground in the backswing, the toe should be pointing up. If it's more "face up," you have rotated too much. On the follow through, parallel to the ground, if the face is facing the sky, you have not rotated back enough. The farther back you move the ball in your stance, the less time you will have to square the clubface.

Joe McNulty

5SK™ Director of Instruction, Cape Cod, MA

Driver - D3 9.5

3-Wood - SQ 15

Hybrid - 17 Adams

4-PW - 714 AP2

50, 56 & 60 - Vokeys

Putter - Scotty

Ball - Pro V1x

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Good deal, thanks for the info guys. I'll work on that somemore this week!
I'm only at 13 clubs in the bag, what do you reccomend as a 14th? My foot wedge?


In the bag:
Driver - HiBore XL 10.5* Reg. Flex Fit- on Fuji GoldWoods - Tightlies GT2: 3 wood 15* & 5 wood 19* Surpass 7 wood 24*Irons - Eye 2 4-PW & a cheesey 1 iron blade I use for punch...
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Trey said it best. The only thing I would add to his comments is that the body rotates around and the right elbow bends to elevate the club.

If you are slicing try a stronger grip (more knuckles of the left hand visible at address). I've gone to a TGM strong single action grip with all 4 knuckles showing and my right thumb down at the aft side of the shaft, where it is almost impossible to hit a fade, let alone a slice.
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The hands, wrists, forearms (whatever you focus on) must rotate somewhat to keep the swing on plane.

I think this is critical right here. I tend to keep it closed sometimes. Results in dead pulls/pull hooks. The more I think about it, the more I tend to screw it up.

If I just let the club go back and open up naturally without much thought or manipulation I hit much better shots.
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Last week on the courses the only way to correct the slice was to have an extremely strong grip. But then I'd have to readjust everytime I picked up an iron, since I was only slicing with the woods.

I think you're right though, because the times that I didn't think about trying to open the club face my hits were more straight. Thanks again.
I'm only at 13 clubs in the bag, what do you reccomend as a 14th? My foot wedge?


In the bag:
Driver - HiBore XL 10.5* Reg. Flex Fit- on Fuji GoldWoods - Tightlies GT2: 3 wood 15* & 5 wood 19* Surpass 7 wood 24*Irons - Eye 2 4-PW & a cheesey 1 iron blade I use for punch...
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Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 6032 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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