Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6581 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I'm probably missing one or more on topic threads but I'd like some feedback on the idea of modifying a driver to make it more 'manageable.'

I currently use a Callaway X460 10 degree, stock stiff shaft, standard length and my control and distance are wildly erratic but the big misses to tend to be strong slices. I can average about 215 carry and 225 to 235 net with my 3 wood off the tee and generally straight with pulls and pushes versus hooks and slices.

At this stage of my game (first year) shooting 90(ish) with a low of 83 and a high of 102, should I be concerned about the driver? Ideally, I'd like more carry and accuracy off the tee and I've heard about the Perfect Driver from Wishon and the Fairway Driver from AGT.

Does anyone have experience with these 'thriver' models or have you had luck reducing the length of a standard driver -- does this work?

I'd appreciate ideas and tips. My driver swing speed is low 90s ( I don't know ball speed) but my launch angle is low 9-11 degrees.

My Bag:

Driver: Srixon ZR-W 9.5* Graffaloy Epic 68(R)
Fairway: Wishon 949MC 16.5*
Hybrid(s): Cobra Baffler DWS 20*Irons: 6-PW Mizuno MP-52. 5i Mizuno MX-23Wedges: Cleveland CG12 DSG 56/10Putter: Rife 2-Bar Hybrid


Posted
I've got a X460 Tour 9.5º with Fuji 26.3 stiff shaft and it's been disappointing. I think it's the shaft so am going to re-shaft with something yet to be decided. That would be my suggestion to you also. Correct shaft and flex can make a huge difference.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...


Posted
I'm probably missing one or more on topic threads but I'd like some feedback on the idea of modifying a driver to make it more 'manageable.' I currently use a Callaway X460 10 degree, stock stiff shaft, standard length and my control and distance are wildly erratic but the big misses to tend to be strong slices.

First off, congrats on doing very well your first year of golf. I think during my first year of golf I was still bouncing my shots off houses, trees and the ground 3' in front of me. In fact, some days I wanted to play my divots because they flew further than my ball.

While you're doing just fine given the amount of time you've been playing, I would suggest that you don't modify your driver at this point. All things being equal, the reason why your driver is erratic is because your swing with your driver is erratic. Granted, while there may be a driver head / shaft combination that may somewhat reduce the penalty of your bad swings, your drives won't improve dramatically until you improve your swing.
I can average about 215 carry and 225 to 235 net with my 3 wood off the tee and generally straight with pulls and pushes versus hooks and slices. At this stage of my game (first year) shooting 90(ish) with a low of 83 and a high of 102, should I be concerned about the driver?

Your 3-wood distance is plenty long for now. At this point, I would work on my short-game more than I would on my driver. Based on my very unscientific "guesstimates", the courses that you'll be playing on (from the white tees) should have par 3's that are less than 200 yards, par 4's around 360 yards, and par 5's right around 500 yards. With good swings, there's nothing (length-wise) that should prevent you from hitting all the greens in regulation.

Here's the best part of learning how to hit your mid and short irons well; it will improve your driving. Most people try to hit their drivers 300 yards, so they swing way too hard. However, most people don't try to hit their 7-irons 200 yards, so they tend to swing more "within" themselves. So, if you apply that same smooth "within" yourself swing on your driver, you should see straighter and more accurate drives.
Ideally, I'd like more carry and accuracy off the tee and I've heard about the Perfect Driver from Wishon and the Fairway Driver from AGT.

With all due respects to the different opinions on this site, you can't buy a "game". While certain types of equipment can enhance your "game", there's no substitute for skill. IMO, take whatever money that you're contemplating spending on equipment and use it for some lessons. Don't get me wrong. Just taking lessons is not going to make you a scratch golfer. However, if you combine lessons with practice and playing, you'll be better served than spending $400 on a new driver or any piece of equipment right now.

DT

:titleist: :scotty_cameron:
915D3 / 712 AP2 / SC Mont 1.5


Posted
Swing speed in the low 90's, you should not have a stiff flex shaft....you are not swinging hard enough for the tip to kick, club face open at inpact, slice!!!
Get on a swing monitor and buy the correct shaft! My two cents.

"Golf's a hard game to figure. One day you'll go out and slice it and shank it, hit into all the traps and miss every green. The next day you go out and , for no reason at all, you really stink." -- Bob Hope

Driver:TM 09 Burner
3 & 5 Wood: Callaway BB War Bird
Irons: TM R7 3-PWWedges:Maxfli...


Posted
Tomboys -- excellent advice. At this point, I'll retire the driver and stick with the 3 wood and keep focusing on swing fundamentals and scoring. I'll address the driver later since I can, with decent swings, reach any GIR where I typically play for now.

When I'm more ready to relook at the driver, I'll have it prpoerly fitted to account, as Benhd, suggests for shaft characteristics. I'll note that I did have the current driver fitted at a Golf Galaxy (cost about 35 bucks for the fitting) and that's how I ended up with this particular shaft.

Thanks, everyone.

My Bag:

Driver: Srixon ZR-W 9.5* Graffaloy Epic 68(R)
Fairway: Wishon 949MC 16.5*
Hybrid(s): Cobra Baffler DWS 20*Irons: 6-PW Mizuno MP-52. 5i Mizuno MX-23Wedges: Cleveland CG12 DSG 56/10Putter: Rife 2-Bar Hybrid


Note: This thread is 6581 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 11: did mirror work for a while. Worked on the same stuff. 
    • I'm not sure you're calculating the number of strokes you would need to give correctly. The way I figure it, a 6.9 index golfer playing from tees that are rated 70.8/126 would have a course handicap of 6. A 20-index golfer playing from tees that are rated 64/106 would have a course handicap of 11. Therefore, based on the example above, assuming this is the same golf course and these index & slope numbers are based on the different tees, you should only have to give 5 strokes (or one stroke on the five most difficult holes if match play) not 6. Regardless, I get your point...the average golfer has no understanding of how the system works and trying to explain it to people, who haven't bothered to read the documentation provided by either the USGA or the R&A, is hopeless. In any case, I think the WHS as it currently is, does the best job possible of leveling the playing field and I think most golfers (obviously, based on the back & forth on this thread, not all golfers) at least comprehend that.   
    • Day 115 12-5 Skills work tonight. Mostly just trying to be more aware of the shaft and where it's at. Hit foam golf balls. 
    • Day 25 (5 Dec 25) - total rain day, worked on tempo and distance control.  
    • Yes it's true in a large sample like a tournament a bunch of 20 handicaps shouldn't get 13 strokes more than you. One of them will have a day and win. But two on one, the 7 handicap is going to cover those 13 strokes the vast majority of the time. 20 handicaps are shit players. With super high variance and a very asymmetrical distribution of scores. Yes they shoot 85 every once in a while. But they shoot 110 way more often. A 7 handicap's equivalent is shooting 74 every once in a while but... 86 way more often?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.