Burg

How about using a driver with more than 9.5 degrees of loft? Just a thought.

I love my 588 DSG's. IMO, Cleveland wedges are on the same level as Vokeys (ie second to none).

Hitting a 3 iron 270+ and in the "fairway" is simply amazing. Hiroshi didn't even look like he was coming out of his shoes either. These guys really have game.

This could be a factor of how many players don't have true handicaps or play rounds that aren't governed strictly by the rules yet still record their score. For example, if a player doesn't record his actual score (mulligan here and there) or doesn't follow the strict rules (gimmie putts, etc.) in obtaining his handicap and then must do so in a Tournament their scores will certainly go up. Again, doesn't explain the Tour pros but I can see it happening with those that record "casual" rounds.

I believe that the graph indicates Tournament scores for those that have the handicap listed. Pelz's point is that everyone shoots above their handicap in a Tournament setting. This would explain the 71 average for Tour Players with +5 handicaps. Not saying I agree with it, but it makes more sense when you factor in the fact that the scores represented by the graph are Tournament scores NOT regular rounds with friends.

This is further complicated by the fact that "Stiff" and "Regular" are not consistent from shaft to shaft. I would advise you to find the drivers you like and hit both shafts on a launch monitor. I would also echo iacas' thoughts about whether you're swing speed is consistent or subject to changing as your game grows.

Your shaft flex is determined by your swing speed and swing tempo. A fitter will choose the setup that will benefit you the most according to your individual swing characteristics. For example, I have a fast tempo and a high swing speed so I use a stiff flex shaft to maximize distance and accuracy. However, my father has a slower swing so uses regular flex to maximize his distance and accuracy. Bottom line is that you should be fitted for clubs.

I did and it was very good. I was just curious what other golfers' experiences were. Any reason why you are using the ProV1x now and not the TP Black?

I have always played the ProV1 but recently found two Taylormade TP Red balls in the woods and figured I'd give them a shot. Wow. I'm not sure if it was just a good day or not, but I was hitting the TP Red about 10-20 yards further off the tee consistently. The ball also played well off the irons and around the greens. Anybody else play these balls? I'm thinking about making the switch from the ProV1.

It's "intents and purposes" NOT "intensive purposes". Sorry, pet peeve of mine. Back to your regularly scheduled thread.

It's personal preference. I need to have all of my grips be midsize because I can't stand to have one club feel different. The type of grip isn't as important to me as the size but your mileage may vary.

Read up on the irons at Cleveland's site: http://www.clevelandgolf.com/irons.html AND http://www.clevelandgolf.com/index.p...mldw¤t;=1 As for wedges, I have Cleveland 588 DSG's and love them. However, I've had Vokeys in the past and like them as well. I don't think you can go wrong with either Cleveland or Titleist wedges.

Into the wind: 20 degree hybrid No wind: 23 degree hybrid With the wind: Five iron This assumes that the hole is flat.

I have the Adams A2 and I love them. I'm sure the new ones w/ the Aldila Blue shafts are nice as well.

Agree. I just don't feel 100% comfortable swinging my driver in a tight situation. Give me an open hole and it's bombs away but in a tight situation I play the 3 wood for accuracy. If the Driver is your most accurate club then there really isn't a reason to force yourself to use a three wood unless you're worried about hitting it too far.

I'll preface my comments with the fact that I have always played Cleveland irons. That said, I had been using Vokey 200 series wedges since the beginning of last year's golf season until last week. I found a good deal on a 588 DSG 54 and 60 and haven't looked back. The wedges have the same soft feel that my CG4 Tours do and the dynamic sole grind makes the wedges very versatile. I can hit flop shots with the 60 at will and can use the 54 effectively in any sand situation. I was a fan of the Vokey 200 series but I really love the 588. Bottom line is that they are both top-of-the line wedges and I don't think that you can go wrong with either one.

I would say that the more moving parts the harder it will be to have consistent timing. I would also point out that Vijay is a poor example because it is very unlikely that many mere mortals can copy his swing. I work on keeping quiet hips with a big shoulder turn. The tension that is created by the hips staying put and the shoulders rotating is a big source of the power that I'm able to create.

Short game, short game, and short game. I have really focused on 100 yards and in and I can tell the difference in my scores. Being able to make birdies from 100-in and get up and down more often than not will drop your score really quickly.

Disagree somewhat. A larger grip will slow down hand action and make it somewhat harder to hit a snap hook. Also, if your hands are bigger than normal (like mine) you will definitely tell the difference in a midsize or oversize grip. Since switching to midsize grips (from normal) I have hit fewer hooks and I feel as if my hands "fit" on the grip better.

At least that wasn't Laura Davies or Patti Hurst. Yikes.

I am in complete agreement with this. I carry four wedges for the same reason. I rarely find myself with 230 yard shots that are effected by the gap between my 3-Hybrid and 3-Wood. However, I have a ton of shots from 125 or less and having four wedges allows me to take more "full" swings.

Even with your wedges? I've always aimed right at the stick with a PW on down. Do you fade/draw your wedges?

I would suggest testing each one. I have Rifle 6.0 shafts in my irons and absolutely love them. I think that both shafts are great so it will likely come down to personal preference.

Not either one of them but I would say the sooner, the better. Hitting a consistent draw/fade eliminates one side of the course and makes planning shots much easier. For example, if the pin is on the right side of the green, I'm going to aim at the center of the green and hit a fade. If I mishit it, more than likely it just goes straight and I'm still on the green. However, if I'm attempting to hit it straight I now have to guess where I'll miss, left or right. Being able to eliminate one side of the course is a huge help in lowering your score IMO. If I were you I would experiment with working the ball and find out which shot shape suits you the best. Use that as your normal shot. For me, I play a cut with my woods and a draw with my irons.

My opinion has always been that in order to make golf courses more difficult, they should be made shorter and tighter with the rough being very penal. If you make them 8,000 yards with average rough you are playing right into the hands of the Tiger Woods set that can bomb the ball. Shorten the courses, grow the rough, and narrow the fairways if you want to bring shot-making back into golf.