Jenks465

There are three available options if you hit into a lateral water hazard 1) Play another ball from the original spot 2) Drop behind the hazard keeping the spot where the ball last crossed the margin of the hazard between you and the hole 3) Drop within two club lengths of where the ball last crossed the margin of the hazard or a spot on the opposite side of the hazard that is equidistant from the hole. Without seeing the individual circumstances it's difficult to say what you can or can't do but just do what seems fair and youll be ok.

Titleist still offer steel as a custom shaft option.

Typically all players will have the option to use a different manufacturers driver or putter written into their sponsorship deals as these clubs are so much about personal preference and they don't want to be forced into using something that they don't like. The use of the sponsors headcovers will be a part of the contract whether the player uses the club or not as they are effectively paying for advertising space in the players bag. The club count takes place on the Thursday of a tournament and is done on the actual clubs the player has in the bag. That said, in some cases companies will ask a player to use a club just for the one day each week so that it is included in the count while not being obliged to carry it for the rest of the tournament.

At that sort of speed i'd be considering a steel shaft to get the dead weight of the club up and improve overall tempo. Dynamic gold x-100 could be a good option and cheap too!

Yeah thats right. Anything worse than a double bogey is reduced (e.g. Make a 9 on a par four and this counts as a six). The best adjusted score is then compared to the standard scratch score (SSS) of the course and the difference is the players initial handicap.

I agree with the two above posts. I average around 240 yards from the tee and hit a six iron around 150 but i'm very consistent in what I do (65-75% fairways, 10-13 GIR, and rarely take more than 30 putts per round). Good scoring is all about being solid in all areas of the game, not hitting the ball miles. The best player i've ever played with was a guy who was actually hitting it shorter than me off the tee but he was so solid he played to +4! You might have heard of him his names Gary Wolstenholme and he qualified for the US Open last year and beat Tiger Woods in the Walker Cup in 1995!

What? No body went for Cabrera, Perry or Campbell! You guys suck!

I play a lot of my non-competitive golf with an old set of persimmon woods and blade irons and it's the best practice I get. If i'm playing well with those clubs then the game feels very easy when the new stuff comes out. I can understand why new equipment doesn't necesarilly produce lower scores too, as the game is, was and always will be about keeping the ball in play, not wasting shots (hitting OB, into water hazards, unplayable lies etc.) and getting the ball up and down from inside 100 yards, all things that new equipment can't really help with. You can buy a club that hits 15-20 yards further but you've still got to swing on line and square the club face up for it to reduce your scores and you can buy wedges and putters that help you to spin the ball or help with alignment but you still need to be able to judge distance and direction pretty well for these things to have any impact on scoring ability. And there isn't a club that you can buy that helps with course management and until there is I would expect average scores to remain pretty consistent around that high 80s low 90s level that it is now.

I decided that I wanted my most lofted wedge to be 58* (good versatility as both a Sand and Lob wedge) and my PW is 46* so went right in the middle at 52* for the gap. All of my wedges have very low bounce to allow me to open the club face to play a variety of shots from the grass, just requires that I keep my teqhnique sharp and my angle of attack shallow in the sand!

50% for a 5 handicap? I've never seen anyone but plus handicap golfers and tour pros get over 45% for all sand saves for a season. Sure, for the short ones (8-15 yards) it's do-able but the 20-30 yarders bring the overall percentage down. FWIW there are currently only 87 out of 200 players on the PGA tour with sand save percentages over 50%!

38.48%., which is 6/7% lower than I'd like. When I practice I mark out a circle 6 feet around the hole with tees and then practice getting the ball inside the circle. I give my self 1 point for a ball in the circle, 2 points if I get a ball within a putter length and 3 points if I hole one and I'll practice until I score 10 points or more with 10 balls. This really focuses my attention and means that every practice shot means something. Just an idea!

I'm at 42.98% up and downs inside 100 yards for the winter. If I can get to over 45% for the summer i'll be very happy! FWIW: Fairways = 57.38%, GIR = 53.43%, Putts = 31.16.

The best way to go would be to get a really solid set of second hand clubs from the professional at your local course. I'd suggest a driver with about 12* loft, a fairway wood with 18* loft, a set of cavity-back irons from 4 iron to pitching wedge, a 56* sand iron and a putter. You should be able to pick this up for around 200-250 Euros and you'll get a good few years of service from them before you'll need to replace them. Good luck!

Carnoustie championship in a very light breeze (by links standards)!

If you can find it, Jack Nicklaus' playing lessons is as good as it gets! Slightly weird format, but brilliant!

I think that is Ryan Moore.

Rifle 5.0 (thats about a regular), exactly the same as in my irons. I like the consistency of feel when all the shafts are the same.

I'd go somewhere else then! Find someone you can trust. Just a shame that you've wasted all that time and money.

That doesn't sound right! My fitter told me everything that I needed to know straight off the bat without me even having to ask (that was one of the major reasons why I bought from them, they'd earned my trust). If you've paid for the fitters time I think that information is as much yours as theirs, if the fitting was free however, maybe I could see where the fitter is coming from.

What heads did he suggest? Most of the component companies (KZG, Wishon, Snake Eyes) make stuff that is every bit as good as any OEM!

228.7 yards average according to my laser (must be broke )!

This will all depend on how much lighter you can make the shaft in the club without changing the swingweight to a level where you lose control and if changing the shaft changes your launch conditions. Rifle wood shafts are~ 125g so if you went to a 95g graphite shaft of the same length you would gain around 2 MPH swing speed (30 g difference in dead weight of a club ~ 2 MPH swing speed) which would result in ball speed increase of ~ 3 MPH (1 MPH ball speed increase equals 1.8 yards extra carry) therefore you would gain a total of 5.4 yards of carry as long as launch angle and spin rate remain the same!

Did you demo the R9 with the same shaft as in your Mactech? For me the 'feel' of a driver head is mainly a result of the shaft rather than the head (too tip stiff feels terrible, tip soft feels solid and 'hot').

I go for accuracy because if you are a short hitting kid then you have to develop a razor sharp short game to compete, which will still be there when you become bigger and stronger. Look at someone like Padraig Harrington; shortish but straight hitting as an amateur but with a great short game which has stood him in good stead as he has learnt to hit it longer. Much easier to learn/ train to hit it further than to develop great touch!

You're dead right, they just don't want to stop! Even with a sharp half-wedge they release two or three yards rather than stopping on the second bounce.