mdvaldosta

If you're in a spell where you're fading or drawing the ball too much, check your feet and (most likely problem) shoulder alignment. It's easy to start creeping too far in either direction after alot of practice, and that's where those curve balls can sneak in.

A couple minutes, depends on if it's my turn to putt or not. I only take 20-30 seconds if I'm out. Usually I'll get a read from behind and line up the putt (line on ball), then walk around to get a feel for the speed and read the green again from opposite the hole. Then, walk back behind and check line one more time, then stand over it and trust I've got the right line. If I'm out though, and it's a casual round, I just read it from behind and make sure my line is right.

The hybrids are designed to get the ball up off the fairway easily, and land softly on the green. Not much different than a 5 wood, honestly, but overall they're supposed to be easier to hit off the grass.

I've never hit the G10 hybrids, but I'd imagine they're nice and forgiving like the irons. I prefer to stick with the same brand if at all possible, but that's just me.

The practice putting green at my home course has 9 holes on it, and I like to putt hole-to-hole pretending to play 9 or 18 holes as each being a par 2. Trying to shoot par is fun and adds a bit of stress to the practice, which is great.

This thread is almost like asking a bunch of high school kids their penis size. On the internet everyone is huge... heh.

I know this is an old thread, but in case you haven't figured it out yet all you need is a higher lofted driver. You're 2* low, and if you go higher you'll also get more spin. Problem solved.

Best advice for the range: 1. ALWAYS have a specific target. A flag or yard marker. ALWAYS. Get in a mindset that you're hitting an approach shot to a green or laying up with a long iron. 2. ALWAYS hit at least 1/3 of your balls with half or 3/4 swings. Something like 60-75 yards. I like to start and finish with these. Lots of people just hit full shots and drivers, thus have little/no touch on pitch shots. 3. If you're a good ballstriker as-is, then work on working the ball. Hit a cut, draw, then straight. Repeat. Tiger, for example, hits 9 different trajectories in a rotation. low cut, low draw, low straight, then doing the same thing for medium and high shots. While you may not need or want to work the ball, learning how to do it is the easiest way to learn how to hit it straight as well.

Scoring really comes from around the green, not an extra 10 yards off the tee. You should use whatever gives you the best scoring ability, in my opinion. And again, I think that's from inside 120 yards.

Best way to get the aim down is to stand behind your ball in line with your target (ping, green, tree, etc) then find a spot a foot or two in front of the ball (divot, broken tee, discolored grass, etc) and walk to your ball with your eye only on the spot in front of your ball. Invision and line between your ball and your intermediate mark and there's your line. Line up your clubface to that line then your feet, then you can shuffle around looking at your real target (tree, pin, green, etc) until you get comfortable. Do this everytime and you'll always be lined up properly. Tiger and Jack, for example, do this.

I should clarify... that's for a fairway bunker. For greenside bunkers.

Near the back of my stance, and I lean about 60% of my weight foward to encourage hitting down on the ball. If you've got a good lie and it's struck clean, you'll get good spin and nearly the same distance out of the shot as normal.

Though it's been pretty much proven that's not the case. I like it because they're not as shiney. I like the chrome look, but hate getting blinded with glare.

I'd love to see a 30k rpm wedge into a green. I bet you could spin a range ball from the back fringe up off the front of the green. I'm suprised the ball isn't going backwards by the time it lands. Must be hard to play golf that way.

The "Oil Can" Vokeys are the ones that rust. Many people like them, but it's a personal preference.

I know I'd probably score better with more forgiving irons, but I truley feel I'll improve more not getting rewarded for poor swings. Aside from that, I ENJOY playing blades - no matter how much better my misses would be otherwise. PS - there's really little difference to me, as I've said before. Maybe 8 yards short/right on a miss rather than 5... In summary: 99% of people probably would score better with cavity backs, but who cares. Play what you want, it's your bag. If all people cared about was scoring than most golfers would have given up already.

Ditto... ...

2 things I thought were most notable: 1. Keep your spine angle. At right below your shoulders, you should really try to keep that still. You move up as your swing moves back, then go back down again. This makes it hard to be consistant, and you'll end up hitting it fat/thin alot. 2. Keep your arms straighter (not necessarily stiff) at address, basically move the ball a bit further away or put your hands lower in your stance. This will help ensure that your hands/arms return back to the same place when you hit the ball, helping to prevent timing issues when your spine angle changes. This will also help keep you from slicing/hooking the ball inconsistantly. I would guess you probably slice the ball more than anything. Basically, moving your body and giving your arms the leeway to go inside or outside gives you too many things that have to be "perfect" to hit a good shot. Making your swing as simple and repeatable as possible is how you'll hit the ball as repeatable as possible.

The good news is you're probably only going to improve :)

Longest putt is longest putt... but then again that's pretty lame. What if the guy had a 60 foot putt, came up 10 feet short, then holed the 10 footer. I guess it's all about intent, maybe you should be more clear. PS - yea, the guy's an ass. People like him is why they need fine print in contracts.

I wouldn't be suprised if the TM irons are bent stronger than usual, I know they do that with their Burner irons. It's a false sense of distance, in a way. Kinda like sticking a 7 iron label on a true 6 iron.

You tipped him when you paid for the clubs, I'm sure they made a couple hundred bucks on those irons. It's not like they're getting paid a small hourly wage or anything.

With that being said, being helpful (and giving them their information, or a link) is a better way of not running off new people who aren't as Internet savvy. Everyone was a nOOb at some point.

I agree with the inconsistancy in what they call average and how the article flows in relation to that... only to say that the chart does a pretty good job of getting what I feel are the average driver and iron distances (230) for most regular golf amateurs.

I use my 56 when I want to get it close to the hole and stop it for an up and down, but when I think I've got a chance to hole it out I'll usually use my PW or a 9I for more roll.