chilly

Hah, no, maybe 8-10yds, and I think that's due to the loft difference. My 3wd also plays at 43.5" so it's not due to length of the club. The CB1 is definitely the longest 3wd I've hit prior to the RBZ, so the RBZ is a legitimate long fairway IMO. I was thinking about this and there may be something to the swing difference that you mention, hard to really tell without film but I may be able to lag the 3wd a bit more, mostly due to the shorter shaft. Reviewing the good shots I hit with the 3wd, seems I may have gotten more of a snap at impact. Again, hard to say without film.

I don't remember all the swings, but do remember one in particular that wasn't "killed" but decent was 157mph off the driver.

I finally picked up a GPS and have been able to mark tee shots and confirm my suspicion. Basically, I'm getting same distance from my driver and 3wd. I have eliminated a few of the usual suspects like poor driver fit, stats below: I just did a driver fitting at Golftec and have the following numbers, my two drivers are an Adams 9015d 9.5 with 70S Harrison Saga, and a Ping i15 8* with 69g stiff Axivcore Red. Specs were basically the same between both drivers, Adams spun a bit more but in general 106-110mph SS 11.5-12.5* launch 2500-2700rpm spin 260carry, 280 total for good swings This pretty much jives with what I see on course. A "nutted" drive seems to carry 260ish, total distance depends on slope. This weekend I hit my TEE CB1 15* with Prolaunch Platinum 75S a few more times then normal on course, remembered to mark two well struck shots and had them at 258 on level ground, 281yd on decent downslope. Yesterday I went to a range (downhill) where you can easily see balls landing. Well struck shots, driver was barely longer then my current 3wd. I actually hit a TM RBZ 13* Tour and it really seemed neck and neck with the driver, carrying the 250 marker (laser verified) just a bit so I had a good reference. Side note, the hype is justified on the RBZ, even accounting for the 13 vs 15*, it's longer then the CB1. So, between what I'm seeing on the course and verified on a launch monitor and driving range, I'm carrying the 3wd right with driver. My driver fits well according to Golftec, and this also jives with the optimal launch condition calculators I see online. OK, so what am I missing, should I put together a 12* driver with short shaft and see what happens?

I don't swing that hard, 110mph or so for me. The one time I did a driver fitting, my best numbers came in with an Xstiff. People will steer you away from Xstiff because they are so accustomed to golfers "reaching" to a shaft that is too stiff for them. You legitimately need an Xstiff at that speed. You'll see quite a bit less spin, meaning more distance. If you're "only" seeing 275 with a 115-120mph swing, on a well struck ball, you have fitting issues. I will admit that I thought that "internet" chatter of 120+mph swing speeds was BS, but in the last week alone I've seen two guys right at 120mph on the monitor at the local big box store(real monitor, not a simulator). Pretty impressive stuff, sounded like a cannon when they hit the ball, both had nice balanced swings.

I found Trispeeds to spin more around the green and feel a little softer, otherwise I saw similar distance.

I've played it twice, my home club actually has a reciprocal there so I can play for cart fee. It's the favorite course I've played, first time I played from the Blues at 7200yds on a very windy day and it's the only time i've played longer then 6800, whole new concept hitting a good drive and still having a four iron into a green. I played the Whites the second time, quite a bit easier not just because of the yardage knocked back to 6600 or so, but the angles into par 3s changes quite a bit and takes bunkers out of play. I've played some resort courses that were tough because of what I call "funhouse" design, but agree that it's a "Pro" course without incorporating stupid design tricks, unbelievable that they actually play 7800yd courses. I can't imagine the course tightened up, it wasn't particularly tight when we played and it was early so the rough was almost non-existant, pins weren't tough. I don't know how it was when you were there, but both times I played there we were the only group in sight, even at the range there was just one other foursome. I played it quite early in the year so I didn't get to see it in good shape, have to get up there this Fall when it should be perfect. Love a couple of the holes that are adjacent to the vineyard. Still, by far the best hole I've played is birdie on #11, playing 465yds. Big drive for me about 270, seven iron from 190 out with wind at my back and the huge elevation change (don't anyone get excited, good 7iron is 170yds for me). Pin was up in the front about on the shelf, hit it to six foot then actually made the tricky slider.

Hah, exactly!! I always wonder about the folks claiming to be so morally upright, they're the ones you have to watch out for.

My schedule is pretty flexible, but I try not to push it too much. I'll leave an hour early every couple weeks in the summer to get a round in the evening. I also took vacation 3 or 4 times this summer to play on a Friday. I do have releases at night once a month, these run ~6hrs so I will leave the following day and play a round if nothing else is going on, problem is many of the folks on my team will work the entire day so it can be tough to sneak out.

I guess I'm missing the headline, the guy yelled Fore and the ball missed you by 20ft...what is the problem?

Ferrules are purely cosmetic, nothing to worry about. That said, I can't stand seeing one loose. If you want to fix it yourself, it's pretty simple with simple tools. Get some epoxy and mix it up, it doesn't need to be fancy...you don't need the golf specific epoxy for this because you're just trying to get the ferrule to adhere. Take a toothpick and put the epoxy in the gap between the ferrule and clubhead. Now, take a 3/8" end wrench, or similar metric...whatever size you can find that will fit over the shaft but will still act as a mandrel against the ferrule. Put the wrench on top of the ferrule and use a hammer to tap on the wrench, gently tapping the ferrule back into place. I did it this way before I got a shaft puller that I could use to do the same thing. The top of the ferrule may get a little marred by the wrench, if so you can wipe it down with a little acetone and it will clean right up. The tighterthe wrench fits around the shaft, the better.

1) 5 Star Gyro (local place) 2) Chik Fil A 3) 5 Guys Have to see if there is an In N Out anywhere local.

I like the concept, but struggle to understand how it's much different then one of the smaller headed 5wd?

I guess it kind of depends what the player is trying to get out of switching clubs. I rotate clubs all the time. I know they're not going to make me a better player, but I just like trying out new clubs, installing new shafts to see what they'll do...just tinkering. It's part of the enjoyment of the game. I don't really spend much on them, I usually buy used 2-4yr old clubs and turn them around for near what I paid after I'm done tinkering. If a person thinks that equipment is really going to change their game to any real extent (once they find a set that fits them), then they aren't being realistic. But, all said, what does it matter to you what other people do with their money?

I think you should have held him to the lost ball instead of letting it slide, then there wouldn't be any controversy.

I really like the Harrison Saga, mid launch and low spin.

I've been fiddling around with a ton of aftermarket shafts, and they're definitely better then OEM shafts. I find the main difference is they're lower spin, and usually a lot less torque. Bad swings don't produce quite as bad results. Impressive that he found 20yds changing out what should be a decent shaft. Project X is supposed to be one of the absolute lowest spin shafts around, so the guy may have really been spinning the ball and it was a "perfect storm" type thing where the shaft is optimal. I need to stop all the trial and error and get up to a good clubfitter...finally found one somewhat local to me.

As stated, Driver is a specific set of requirements, so I'd use whatever shaft works. 3wd may or may not have different set of requirements then a 5wd, so they don't necessarily need to be the same. Some guys hit 3wd exclusively off the tee, so it may want to be lower flight then the 5wd, which would normally want a higher flight to be able toland on greens.

I had a MP 52 set where the guy ordered a 3i 1/2" long, and bent to 2i loft, that would work.

Received a Callaway gift card at a tournament this weekend, so picked up a box of Gamer V2s, Diablo Edge balls, and a Callaway glove.

How does buying gear for carrying the unit only apply to the GPS, and not the lazer?

Why, you'd end up never using the lazer =)

I think that's how they say it in the Southeast..

Debate could go on forever, I was just pointing out that many GPS do have the ability to point to objects on the hole. Is there a lazer made that can measure something that isn't in line of sight?

Many current GPS allow you to point to any location on a hole, so that's really not a disadvantage any more.

I just received a UPro Go for my birthday and played a few holes with it. My home course is very accurately marked, so I don't necessarily need it there, but it's definitely nice to have. For instance, there are two holes where I land the ball right in the middle of a dogleg. I never know if the marked distance is "as the crow flies", or around the dogleg. GPS took the guessing game out of it. Also had some instances where I now knew distance to the front of the green which helped club selection, versus just knowing to the middle. Definitely sped up my round as well, versus finding sprinkler heads and walking off distances. And, I laugh at anyone that says that these devices "take away" from the game. Ridiculous, guess they think a caddie is just there to carry a person's clubs?