chilly

I'd think that if the epoxy did let go, you'd know it immediately, whenever you struck any ball the head would likely come off. Also, don't know why it would only happen on heel shots...you're actually torquing the head more hitting it on the sweet spot then the heel.

Bought Axivcore Green 75S online

I found the 46" stock length to be too long, I cut mine to 45" and hit it better. I had a Fubuki 73s in mine, nice driver but just didn't fall in love with it, so I recently sold it.

Been down a couple weeks with a tweaked back. Finally feeling good enough to hit balls. Worked on more of what I'd learned in my last lesson: 1) Push my left side back on takeaway, and don't break wrists early 2) Backswing should be more outside 3) Smooth transition 4) Work on right elbow staying in, "drop it in the slot" 5) Don't hit at the ball, pull through with left side 6) Swing down the line, not "around" to the left I actually had a great session, started with easy irons and my back loosened up as I hit more. I think having no expectations let me really try the new spring since there was no "pressure" to hit the ball well. Irons had been pretty good before the lesson, but I was hitting more online with less of a pull. Driver was the big difference. I finally felt like I was getting my left hip through and could really feel the lag. Instant push draw and nice distance and ball flight, much different then my normal ball. I have a tendency to get quick which gets me coming over the top, and then have to flip at the ball which results in an awful push fade. It's tough to trust moving the hips through, feels awkward, but the results when done right were there. Chipping was also excellent. Pro noticed that I rotate through when chipping as well and will come over top the ball, so I have trouble with distance control. Practiced keeping back of left wrist pointed at target, and instantly got higher trajectory and much easier distance control. I set a two foot circle around targets on the green and was 5/5 landing in that circle the last three times through, that is something I'd never come close to doing before.

The shaft they put in Burners is a lightweight noodle, you'd be well served to pickup an aftermarket shaft.

I had trouble measuring clubs with rounded soles until I got a proper clublength ruler from Golfsmith. Sounds simple enough to measure, but holding the club and tape, and trying to measure a four foot long club...I was always a bit off. But as stated, it's from the sole to the end of the grip. Every club is different, but a decent rule of thumb is that the shaft will be ~1.5" inserted into the clubhead. That will vary, but it's a good ballpark if you're buying a used shaft.

Have you ever "played" one of those annoying apps online where you're prompted to click a button, and whenever you try to click the button, it moves? That's how my golf game feels right now...every time I think I have something nailed down, another part of the game blows up. Got my lesson this week, practiced and was definitely hitting the ball better off the tee. Not where I want to be, but misses were reduced and was hitting it more solid. Played yesterday looking forward to the round because my irons and short game had been solid. Well, game off the tee was pretty good, 8 fairways hit with a couple bombs and several just off the fairway, should have been a great day. I couldn't hit a Green to save my life...combination of fat shots, plain shanks, just a mess. Short game was equally crap, just couldn't nudge the ball anywhere near the hole on chips and threw in a couple three putts to top it all off. I guess I'll chalk it up to a lot of practice last week wearing on me a bit. I did practice putts after the round and rolled it as well as I ever have, a buddy told me that I'm picking the putter up (why I don't know) to begin my backswing.

I've been playing steady golf, but my game off the tee has gotten so bad that there's just nowhere else to go until I improve my game with the driver. Well, I'm sure I could pick up strokes in the short game but the driver has been ridiculous. Pro immediately pointed out a few "easy" fixes. I was cupping my left wrist at address, setting up the snap hook I hit from time to time. My takeaway is very "wristy" instead of initiating with the shoulders...which brings it way inside and also doesn't always allow me to turn my shoulders completely. I'm too quick at the transition, which causes the over the top move I fight all the time. Finally, and probably the most difficult thing, is that I "spin out" on the downswing and don't bring the club down the line. Hit a few shots working on these things and immediately hit it better, it feels like it's been two months since I hit a decent drive...either on the range or the course. If I get the transition slowed enough, I was hitting nice little draws, otherwise baby cuts that were perfectly fine. Good distance, and hitting the center of the club more often. I guess because I'm not coming "around" my body and hooding the club a bit at impact, the ball flight is quite a bit higher...not spinny...but something to look at. I'm encouraged but this is going to take quite awhile to groove, there are enough changes in place that my swing definitely felt awkward.

The 07 Burner is pretty nice from both Tee and off the deck. I've also hit a Diablo Edge Tour that was very nice from both, I'm currently looking for a good used one. I have a TEE CB1 that's pretty solid from both, maybe could be a touch shallower face to make it truly easy to hit off the fairway for high handicappers like myself.

Odyssey Sabertooth, the ugliest putter in the store but it kept winning out for me.

Yes, I've done it on several different kinds.

It's not always quite that easy, but the air compressor method is definitely an easier way to regrip. Many times if they used double sided tape on the old grips, it's tough to get them off without bubbling them, but if you just cut them off it's not a big deal. Very easy to get new grips on, and I just use plain masking tape to build up...cheap and much quicker.

I struggle with spin and high launch, and have heard a lot of good things about the Rombaz Zs to get flight/spin down. Seeing a ton of them on ebay, price for a good pull is coming down to feasible levels so I may pick one up. I'm not in love with the Fubuki in my Superfast, the Rombax may be a good candidate.

NXT Tour or Trispeed Tour have been working nice for me.

Been hitting my SFTP with Fubuki 73S. Tried it at full length and there was just no way to control it, things are a little better now that I cut it to 45". It's definitely a nice driver, but I haven't found it to be any longer then my 9015d/Saga 70S so far. Hammered one today on our #7 hole and saw the same shot that I'd expect out of my old combo.

If you look at the Golfworks shaft selector deal, the shafts that supposedly help a slice are all high torque. The shaft allows the clubface to release easier, helping to square the face. Opposite would be true for something designed to prevent the face from closing, low torque.

Personally, I'd go one club at that distance because it's going to be a high lofted club. High loft means that the ball is closer to flying vertically, versus horizontally, so the change in elevation doesn't effect distance that much. Something like a 5i though, yes, I'd go two clubs.

1996 Chevy C1500, 2wd, 296k and still going strong. My golf clubs are definitely worth more then my truck =)

If you're hitting the ball well right now, I don't see where a change of equipment would be necessary. Now if you wanted to hit the ball lower, or be able to work it, fine. That said, if you just want a new set of sticks, I say go ahead...part of the fun of the game IMO.

I am a mess when it's hot out, I've tried every grip out there and eventually they all get slick. Best, for me, is the Golf Pride dual compound new decade, but it has it's limits. Probably not what you're looking for as far as a magic grip, but I find that carrying around a big towel and really rubbing down the grip before I swing is the only way. That, and throw on a fresh glove at the turn...take them off while I'm walking to the next shot as well.

Buy a Callaway FT-5 or Taylormade 2007 Burner for $60 used, and spend the rest on lessons...then you can have a quality club, and a way to learn how to use it.

Don't know how much spin you can reduce, that FT-5/Blueboard combo is pretty low spin to begin with. FT-Tour with a stiff Voodoo should do pretty well and would be pretty similar to what you have in appearance/feel. If you play a draw, something like an Adams 9015d or Ping i15 will work. Ping with stock Axiv Red will get spin down, or 9015d with a Harrison Saga is low spin for sure. You're spin really isn't too bad, I'd guess optimal is around 2600 so I'm not sure how much you'll pick up distance wise...but going to a Stiff would work for your swing speed.

If you're considering used, you can get just about anything, including clubs that are currently on the racks. 07 Burner is good Tour Edge Exotics CB1/CB2 Callaway X Cobra s9-1 Ping G10 Mizuno MP are $125 used Most fairway clubs retail around $200 or less, so if you're willing to pay $150 you can get anything you want in the used market really.

S.N., can you explain how it is that you're hitting the 6i a good 30-40yds longer then the longer guys on Tour? A big 6i is 190yds by all accounts, I'd say a "standard" 6i for the majority of humans is 170ish. I think Mickelson and a few others, at full freakiness, can hit a 6i around 200yds. Please don't use the "deloft" argument, the pros are the best in the world at holding lag and delofting the club. So, you can see why many guys will want to call BS on your statements, plain and simple. I could maybe buy 205-210, but what you're claiming doesn't really seem feasible.

I had a Ping Rapture 3wd with that shaft factory installed. I really didn't get low flight from it, more a nice mid trajectory.